Interview with Augusto Cardona, Sales Manager, Italian Wine Merchants

Following is an interview with Augusto Cardona, Sales Manager, Italian Wine Merchants:

What was the first wine that made you realize you loved wine?

Damijan Ribolla Gialla 2002 made me change the way I look at white wine, and the first time I had Quintarelli Amarone I knew I’d never tasted anything even close to that before. However I have to say that the wine that did it for me, that truly made me realize that I love wine was Bartolo Mascarello’s 1989 Barolo (out of magnum). Like the Quintarelli it possessed layers and depth that I could draw few comparisons to, and definitely had the "what was that?" impact on me. However the one thing that made this one truly stand out was it’s elegance. To this day if you asked me to describe my idea of “elegance” I would have to say that that wine is an example that I would use.

Describe your perfect meal and the wine you'd pair with it?

Well, since I just got back from Piemonte how could I not mention white truffles on Tajarin with aged Barolo. But there is also something to be said about the simplicity of a white like Verdicchio from Le Marche (look for Sartarelli) that work their magic with the seafood of the Adriatic on a summer day. The zing and citrus nuances bring just about any fish back to life - no sauces needed here - just some grilled fish and lemon. A Rosso di Montalcino with some pici topped with wild boar ragu is also a nice, simple classic pair.

What's the most common misconception that people have about wine?

High Points = Good Wine. That is the exact misconception that we try to dispel everyday here at IWM.
This is only one of the negatives associated with the rating system; in the end the rating system can deter people from establishing or discovering their own individual palate. Part of my responsibility is getting someone the wine that is best for them based on palate preference and understanding - it is an important part of our philosophy at IWM. A great read that captures our position on this is "When 84 Points Is Better Than 100" from our weekly eLetter.

What's your newest find for under $20?

In this range I am looking for wines that are going to match my everyday eating as well as obscure varietals and regions (especially when talking Italian). We just received a number of new, interesting wines in the store that fit this bill. One in particular that I am very fond of is the Frecciarossa Uva Rara. This is 100% Uvarara from the Oltrepo Pavese area of Lombardia in northern Italy. Just an extremely rare varietal from an often underrated region in Italy. There is ~1,500 cases made.

Is there a wine you've always wanted to try, but never had the chance to?

I would be lying to you if I said I wouldn't love to try a 1945 Mouton or 1947 Cheval Blanc. But at the prices they carry and the build up they received, that glass is carrying a lot of pressure to perform. I have read about them and I have clients who keep their mythical status alive. These Bordeaux have such large production, to me if I am going into the priceless realm, I would have to say the 1888 Biondi Santi Brunello Riserva would be up there. Only three remain at the estate, this is the wine that showed the world that Italy has wines that can age.

All three of those are the monuments to wine and would be on many wish lists, but really for me, I am fascinated by the biodynamic accomplishments of the Movia estate which has Ribollas dating back to the 1950s in their cellar. This overshadowed varietal of Friuli (and parts of Slovenia) has the structure to age and dispel a lot of beliefs about Italian whites (it should be noted the estate has vineyards that reside in both Italy and Slovenia as it rests on the border there.) The same is true for Mastroberardino with the varietal he helped rescue from extinction, Fiano. The estate still has bottles that date back to the 1950s – I’d love to try those.

Lastly, there are the mythical whites of the Fiorano estate from Prince Alberico Boncompagni Ludovisi - or as Eric Asimov of The New York Times describes puts it, the Prince and His Magic Cellar. The story is as intriguing as the wines. Strangely enough, these wines are from Lazio, not the first region you would think of to experience a dream wine. On top of that the whites are made up of Semillion and Malvasia - not the most exciting grapes. Yet, the wines challenge all convictions with their ability to age thirty years and deliver a flavor profile and experience that challenges the greatest whites in the world. The eccentric Prince, who rarely released his wines, wanted the wines to land in the hands of enthusiasts that would appreciate their complexity and he could only think of only one person. The Prince tore up his vineyards, so that they would not fall into the wrong hands, and left the entire cellar (consisting of thousands of bottles from the 1970s to 'the 1990's) to the great Italian wine journalist and personality Luigi Veronelli. Luigi kept his promise of maintaining the integrity of the wine and shortly before his death he passed the responsibility and wines to Sergio Esposito of IWM. Sergio is keeping that promise now by delivering the wines responsibly - in fact, we sell very few bottles each year. I don't do the story justice, but it is one of those great wines stories that enthusiasts love to read about. It is a story that Sergio has captured in his upcoming book, Passion on the Vine: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family in the Heart of Italy

I have had the opportunity to taste four vintages from the Fiorano estate, but there are several vintages I have not yet experienced, which would make them the wine I want to experience most. Italy gets little credit for its whites, but these three have proven that age-worthy whites in Italy do exist.

A Taste of International Varietals at Italian Wine Merchants

Most of the wines I talk about in this blog don't go for more that $20, But last weekend I treated myself to a tasting at Italian Wine Merchants (Founded by Sergio Esposito, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich) and sampled six wines from various regions in Italy. As a tasting room it really is a near perfect space, both functional and cozy. Naturally the wine that most impressed me was the Sassicaia, but some of the other wines from various regions of Italy were really diverse. And for $50 I got to sample 6 excellent wines, so in my book it's a great deal.

The orientation was given by IWM Sales Manager, Augusto Cardona who gave a brief history of IWM and it's philosophy. He then went thru the wines one by one extolling their virtues, and was really helpful with any questions we had. Next, we dove right in...

• Bruno Giacosa 2003 2003 Spumante Brut (Lombardia-Pinot Nero)

This 100% Pinot Nero is a sparkling wine with almost clear golden color, a bouquet of sour apples, yeast and fruit. The grapes are grown in a soil rich in limestone giving this Brut its singular character and dry, lively edge.


• Castel Sallegg 2004 Traminer Aromatico (Alto Adige-Traminer Aromatico)
This is a Gewurztraminer, Alto Adige's signature grape, which Augosto says, may have originated that region. The wine has a light golden color, aromas of melon, apples, peaches and roses accenting a palate of citrus, more specifically grapefruit.

• La Castellada 2002 Sauvignon (Friuli-Sauvignon Blanc)
To come...




• Rocche Dei Manzoni 2001 Pinonero Damino (Piemonte-Pinot Nero)

To come...




• Movia 2000 Veliko Rosso (Friuli-Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot, Pinot Nero)


This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Nero is from the Friuli/Slovenian border and is stored in Slovenian oak casks for three to seven years. Appearance is berry red with an earthy leather aroma, medium body and notes on the palate of black cherry jam and hint of mushrooms.

• Tenuta San Guido 2004 Sassicaia (Toscana-Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc)

This is from the house that started it all... the Supertucan movement that is.

The regard for this wine is such that it was accorded a DOC status by the classification system that shunned its initial efforts--a first for an Italian wine. IWM

Deep ruby red colors this complex wine with an opacity that makes it look unfiltered, while the nose is intense (but not overpowering) with waves of luscious fruit and balanced tannins. Amazing.

Italy's Icons and Rising New Stars

On a cold and blustery January Saturday, Italian Wine Merchants hosted a tasting series called Italy’s Icons and Rising Stars, which I attended with both old and new friends. It began as a low-key and reserved afternoon that quickly turned boisterous—complete with exploding glasses, spurting wine and contagious laughter.

Bruno Giacosa Spumante Brut 2004 DOC
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Region: Lombardia

Bruno Giacosa, known more for his Barolo and Barbaresco in the Piedmont region makes this Spumante Brut in the neighboring Lombardy region. Made from 100% Pinot Noir in the traditional Champagne style, fermented in stainless steel followed by secondary fermentation in bottle and hand riddling, the wine ages on the lees for a period of 24 to 30 months prior to release.

Loaded with ripe fruits, showing a dry minerality, citrus notes, a hint of fresh bread and heady floral aromas.

Giuseppe Quintarelli Bianco Secco Ca' del Merlo 2007 IGT
Varietal: Garganega Blend
Region: Veneto

Here we see Quintarelli, a master of wine known for his Valpolicella, Recioto and Amarone, delving into a Bianco Secco, an interesting blend of Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Saorin (the last of which, meaning "flavor" in Veronese dialect, and believed to be a clone of the Tocai grape).

Crisp and full flavors abundant with fresh aromatics of green apple, lemon rind, lychee, honey and minerals, and finishing long and smooth.

Bodega Chacra Pinot Noir Rio Negro Barda 2007
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Region: Patagonia, Argentina

Piero Incisa della Rocchetta hails from one of the great Italian wine families -- the Rocchetta family is responsible for the planting of Sassacaia, and with the release of their first vintage in 1968, was able to convince the wine world of the high quality of Italian wines. In 2004, Piero purchased a vineyard in Patagonia Argentina which is now Bodega Chacra in order to produce Pinot Noir.

Hand destemmed, macerated in cement tanks, then in oak barrels for 11 months, this is a fruit forward, dense and well structured Pinot with aromas of tar, oak and smoke, textured with earthy flavors and a mineral character.



Punica Montessu 2007
Varietal: Carignan Blend
Region: Sardegna

From Giacomo Tachis of Sassicaia fame comes this Super-Sardegnian blend of 60% Carignano, with 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. Fermented in cement vats, aged in French oak barriques for 18 months and finally 12 months in bottle.

This was one of my favorites of the tasting and seems to me like a great value at $32 per bottle. A nose of violets, herbs and white pepper, and a ripe profile of plums, blueberries and even a little peach.



Talenti Rosso di Montalcino 2007
Varietal: Sangiovese
Region: Toscana

Made from grapes harvested from younger Brunello vines, this wine matures in oak barriques for two years and in bottle for one. Aromas of red ripe cherries and animal, with flavors bringing to mind Port wine, plums and cherries.



Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004
Varietal: Sangiovese Grosso
Region: Toscana

Aged in French oak barrels for 3 years before aging in bottle for 12 months. Tar, smoke, oak, chalk, cola, leather and plums, all come together to form a fine classic Brunello.



The good company: David, Sarena, Alicia, Kathy, Robin & Allen.

(Stay tuned... Two more wines to come from this tasting, and more pix.)

Bartolo Mascarello Barbera d'Alba 2007 DOC
Varietal: Barbera d'Alba
Region: Piemonte

Deep ruby colors with complex aromas and palate of ripe cherries, chocolate, violet candies, herbs, coffee, smoked meats.



A&GN Fantino Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi' Nebbiolo Piemonte 1995
Varietal: Nebbiolo
Region: Piemonte

Aged 12 months in stainless steel followed by 12 moths in bottle, ripe black cherries, with a spicy edge and smooth texture.

A Taste of Italy.... Sassicaia at Italian Wine Merchants

This weekend I got the chance to attend a wine tasting at Italian Wine Merchants (Founded by Sergio Esposito, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich) and sampled six wines from various regions in Italy. As a tasting room it really is a near perfect space, both functional and cozy. Naturally the wine that most impressed me was the Sassicaia, but I'll be collecting my notes and writing more about the event this week. So stay tuned....

Three Italian Sparkling Wines to Ring In 2014 - New Years Italian Style

Here are 3 great choices for New Years Eve this year from the Trento D.O.C in the Trentino region of Italy.

Ferrari Brut 

All hand picked Chardonnay in early September from various communes of the Trento Province, several years maturation, color of yellow and pale green with aromas of fresh flowers, apples and hints of yeast, flavors of ripe apples, pears and bread, and long on the palate. SRP $24

Ferrari Perlé

A vintage Blanc de Blanc from hand picked Chardonnay grapes grown exclusively on Lunelli* family owned vineyards, maturation 5 years, first vintage being 1971. Pale yellow gold colors with Christmas aromas of spiced apples and freshly baked bread, on the palate crisp and dry, with more ripe apples, a spicy, nutty undertone and a smooth finish. SRP $35

Ferrari Rosé

Classic method sparkling wine from 60% Pinot Nero and 40% Chardonnay, the Pinot Nero vinified as a Rosé from the Trento Hillsides. Several years maturation. Pale red rose colors in the glass with bouquet of blossoming flowers, red berries and wild strawberries. Dry on the palate, clean, nutty with hints of damp earth, and a nice long finish. SRP $37

Ferarri got its start in 1902 when Giulio Ferrari studied in France and returned home thinking how well Chardonnay grapes would fare in the terroir of his native Trentino region of Italy. By 1906 he was already winning awards for his sparkling wines, and since he had no children, left the entire operation to his friend Bruno Lunelli*... since then Ferrari has won a record 22 Tre Bicchieri awards.

I found these wines available at the following spots in the greater NYC area:

Eight & Driggs 197 N 8th St Brooklyn, NY 11211 map / phone	Bayside Liquors 4304 Bell Blvd Bayside, NY 11361 map / phone
Windsor Bay Wines & Liquor 21518 73rd Ave Bayside, NY 11361 map / phone	Royal Wine Merchants Ltd 25 Waterside Plz New York, NY 10010 map / phone
Grande Harvest Wines 107 E 42nd St New York, NY 10017 map / phone	Gramercy Wine Cellars 236 3rd Ave New York, NY 10003 map / phone