2007 La Mozza I Perazzi Morellino di Scansano DOC

Mario Batali, Joe and Lidia Bastianich have partnered to create this wonderful Morellino di Scansano. The La Mozza Vineyard is near Scansano, a village in southern Tuscany, southwest of Montalcino.

Morellino, being very similar to Sangiovese, reflects intense resinous and spicy aromas, namely raisins and white pepper, with flavors of cocoa, sour cherries, hints of licorice, sawdust, and malt.

85% Morellino (Sangiovese), 4% Syrah, 4% Alicante, 4% Ciliegiolo, 3% Colorino, 75% of the wine is aged in French barrique (1 & 2 year-old) for 10 months.

Winemaker notes:
I Perazzi is named after the fruit trees that grow on the estate and bear a pear-like fruit, which is depicted on the label. In Tuscany, the Sangiovese grape is known by several names, from Chianti to Brunello to Morellino, depending on where it is grown. Morellino means "little blackish one" because of the dark color of the grape. In the hot Maremma zone, the grapes are exposed to a more Mediterranean climate with enough heat to tone down Sangiovese's signature acidity, producing juicier fruit and a jammy flavor. I Perazzi was created to be unlike most other Morellinos, which see little or no time in oak. The blend of this wine is more expressive and better demonstrates the potential of the terroir. In the Morellino di Scansano, rich, ripe black cherry and berry flavors blend into pleasant tartness. Tannins are soft at first, then firm up in the lengthy, balanced finish.

Had this by the glass at The Spotted Pig in the West Village (also partially owned by Batali).

7 Inexpensive but Good Wines

Here are 7 of my most recent favorite inexpensive but good wines.

J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
This Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, California is made from 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petite Sirah, 5% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot and 1% Malbec- quite an intense mix, but it works. Stainless steel fermentation, then 14-16 months in oak casks. Bright reddish purple in color with strong fruity fragrance of cherries cedar and blackberries, and cherry soda, chocolate and vanilla on the mouth. Enjoyed this with a cheeseburger at a new restaurant in Forest Hills by the glass, and it can be found retail at the $20 range. 13.8% alcohol.

Cantina Di Casteggio Oltrepo Pavese Barbera 2005 DOC
This medium weight ruby colored 100% Barbera is unoaked, so there's no wood influence, allowing a nose of pure mild red fruits, a palate of sour cherries, spice, white pepper, and a mix of fragrant herbs. After an hour of decanting the finish was smooth and fleeting, but after 4 hours the finish stretched out nicely. The mild tannins would hold up well to a pork or veal dish, or even barbecue. We are in the $12 range.


Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006
Blend is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 is a ruby red, dry, full-bodied wine from Tuscany with ripe red fruit and chocolate on the nose, and a fresh smooth palate with a good finish. 13% alcohol and $7.99.

Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2006 Chile
This Carmenere from Chile is aged for 8 months in small oak barrels, is a deep purple red, has mild floral aromas and complex fruit flavors including cherry, with spice and vanilla. This is an interesting pick... the flavor profile is unique (it's my first 100% Carmenere)... I haven't seen many around. Found this in the $10 range.

Chateau Grand Moulin 2005 France
This red wine from France is a blend of Syrah and Grenache grapes. Color is clear dark garnet red with cherries, ripe fruit and tar on the nose. Palate has black cherry and white pepper undertones and moderate tannin. It is paired well with warm gruyere gougeres. Not bad by the glass for $9.

Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT
This is a 100% Sangiovese red wine made from grapes from various locations in Tuscany, Italy. There's barnyard on the nose with black cherry and oak with cinnamon, and mild flavors of fruit and good balance. This is an inexpensive, but decent everyday wine, I believe it was $6.

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
This DOCG from Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy is made from 80% Prugnolo Gentile (a Sangiovese clone) and a 20% blend of Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo. 80% of the grapes are aged for two years in Slavonian oak and 20% in French oak. On the nose is cherry, oak, rose and vanilla and on the palate black cherries with moderate tannins and a smooth medium finish. In the $20 neighborhood, this is a good vintage to drink now but you can also cellar it for a few years.

NEW WINES FROM ITALY

Not long ago Gary Grunner--a wine aficionado with a special interest in Italian wines—invited me over to his house for a tasting. He had just returned from the Newport Wine Festival and wanted to share some of his newest gems with a few other writers and friends. As usual, Gary prepared a generous plate of cheese, bread, olives and other tempting noshes to complement the flavors of his wines—always a surefire way to keep me interested.

The conversation that afternoon ranged from where Italy's wine business was heading to what Italian producers needed to do in the US market to keep ahead of the rest of the world. Gary has been in the wine business and selling Italian wines since the early 1980s, and has witnessed first hand the intense growth of the industry as well as the increased competition. But in spite of the obstacles he believes there is more opportunity than ever for new, great wines.

With that in mind, I was secretly thinking that he could be setting himself up for a fall if the wines didn't deliver. But he went down to his cellar and returned with 5 bottles, lined them up on a long wooden table, and simply smiled.

Here are my reviews:

Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2003 DOCG (Fattoria dei Barbi)

Made from 100% Sangiovese grapes, this Brunello has a really interesting mix of aroma vs. palate. At first the nose reveals roasted meats, toast and ripe concentrated stewed prunes. Then you taste the intense ripe cherries, plums and spices and then a bit later chocolate, more spices and black pepper.

Fattoria Dei Barbi Morellino Di Scansano 2005 DOC

The Colombini family has owned property in Brunello di Montalcino since 1352, and they established Fattoria dei Barbi there in 1790.

Medium weight and bright ruby colors decorate this Morellino Di Scansano from Tuscany's Montalcino area. The first aromas are apparent immediately in a verdant dense forest, mushrooms and barnyard, then on the palate comes the sour cherry. Slightly tannic, but opening nicely within a hour or so with a finish of raisins and cola.

Fattoria dei Barbi Toscana Brusco dei Barbi 2006 IGT

Fattoria dei Barbi uses a patented technique of fermentation developed by Giovanni Colombini to make this Sangiovese Tuscan red wine. The process involves the extensive soaking of the grapes with their pomace which results in an intensity of flavors, softness, color, and complexity.

The initial fermentation lasts 10 days, transforming the sugars to alcohol. Then the stainless steel vats are sealed, the temperature dropped and the wine left in contact with the skins, continuing to ferment slowly. After three months the skins are then removed and the wine remains in the stainless steel vats until bottling.

The color of this wine is a ruby red with aromas of raspberries and spices while on the palate are earthy autumnal tones of underbrush. There is a smoothness in the tannins and a good balance overall with a finish that's full circle back to red berries.

Galarej Barbera D'Alba

Made from 100% Barbera grapes, this red wine is deep ruby-red with aromas of raspberry, flowers and vanilla, and flavors of violets, cedar and pepper spices and a medium-body.

Excellent with grilled meat, steaks, burgers, pizza, red sauce pasta dishes.

Galarej Barolo 2004 DOCG

This Barolo is made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes with colors of deep garnet and a nose of cherries, raspberries, herbs and spice. There's a full, rich, ripe palate of dark berries and leather, along with a warm, smooth finish that reverberates an earthiness. 13.5% alcohol content.


What I have come to appreciate about all the wines Gary represents is his preference for wines that generally over-deliver in quality as compared to the market price. That afternoon he particularly enjoyed discussing wines such as Fattoria dei Barbi, and he beamed with pride as he inducted his new brand Galarej into his portfolio.

Gary also talked about his newest endeavor with importer, Pietro Cavallo called 'Wine Project', as well as 'Grapes on the Go' his new consulting company that offers expert advice on wine, as well as restaurant and fine wine shop ventures.

It's clear that his favorite wines are those that not only best represent their grape variety and region, but also reveal a sense of passion that can only come from family-owned wineries with a joyous commitment to the wine business.

Fattoria Dei Barbi Morellino Di Scansano 2005 DOC

©2008 photo by Jill Ortenberg

The Colombini family has owned property in Brunello di Montalcino since 1352, and they established Fattoria dei Barbi there in 1790.

Medium weight and bright ruby colors decorate this Morellino Di Scansano from Tuscany's Montalcino area. The first aromas are apparent immediately in a verdant dense forest, mushrooms and barnyard, then on the palate comes the sour cherry. Slightly tannic, but opening nicely within a hour or so with a finish of raisins and cola.

Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006

©2008 photo by Dave Trieger
Blend is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 is a ruby red, dry, full-bodied wine from Tuscany with ripe red fruit and chocolate on the nose, and a fresh smooth palate with a good finish. 13% alcohol and $7.99.

Sensi Arcere Morellino di Scansano 2008 DOCG

Morellino di Scansano is basically a local (Maremma) name for the Sangiovese grape, and Sensi produces this wonderful Arcere, showing dark ruby colors with plumes of violets and dark cherry on the nose. The palate is blessed with vibrant fruit, nice acidity, black ripened plum, glycerine and a slight minerality, while also showing traces of white pepper, cassis and no trace of wood (I believe the fermentation takes place in concrete vats). The finish is long and smooth. We had this delicious "food wine" with dinner at La Bella Cucina, an Italian restaurant with an outdoor garden in Glendale, Queens.

Fattoria Le Pupille Elisabetta Geppetti Morellino Di Scansano 2009 DOCG

This wonderful Morellino di Scansano is a Tuscan blend of mostly Sangiovese with a bit of Alicante and Malvasia Nera. Dark bluish ruby colors in the glass, as boysenberry and vanilla aromas permeate intensely, with exotic dark licorice scents and even a bit of wild underbrush, while on the palate resinous dark chocolate notes with cassis and red berries fill the mouth. Nice balance and long finish. Found this one at Il Poeta Restaurant.

10 good wines for Under $10... wines for the NEW GREAT DEPRESSION

Here is a list of 10 good wines, mostly Italian, that you can get for under $10 a bottle:

Monte Antico Toscano 2004 IGT Italy
Colosi Sicilia Rosso Nero D’Avola 2005
Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2006 Chile
Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT Italy
Bodegas Zabrin Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines 2006 Spain
Casal Thaulero Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2006 DOC Italy
Fattoria di Bibbiani Poggio Vignoso Chianti 2005 DOCG Italy
Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Classico DOCG 2004 (375 ML) Italy
Rocca Delle Macie Rubizzo Sangiovese di Toscana 2006 IGT Italy
Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 Italy

10 good wines for Under $10

Here is a list (from this blog) of 10 good wines, mostly Italian, that you can get for under $10 a bottle:

• Monte Antico Toscano 2004 IGT Italy
• Colosi Sicilia Rosso Nero D’Avola 2005
• Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2006 Chile
• Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT Italy
• Bodegas Zabrin Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines 2006 Spain
• Casal Thaulero Montepulciano D'Abruzzo 2006 DOC Italy
• Fattoria di Bibbiani Poggio Vignoso Chianti 2005 DOCG Italy
• Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Classico DOCG 2004 (375 ML) Italy
• Rocca Delle Macie Rubizzo Sangiovese di Toscana 2006 IGT Italy
• Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 Italy

Colle Sori Montepulciano D'Abruzzo 2005 DOC

This is a red Montepulciano D'Abruzzo from the Abruzzo region of Southern Italy, where proud, hard working people work the land to produce a great value in an every day wine. This wine has colors of deep ruby with hints of purple and is somewhat reminiscent of a Morellino Di Scansano. Aromas of blackberries waft before a simple palate with lower acidity and soft tannins. Believe it or not this wine can be had for about $6 or $7.

Casa Brancaia Tre Rosso Toscana 2007 IGT

This SuperTuscan blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is from three estates, Brancaia (Castellina), Poppi (Radda) and Brancaia in Maremma (Morellino di Scansano). Aged in oak 12 months plus 2 months in bottle. Inviting floral aromas of violets, the palate being tight at first, but with time expands with smooth, round flavors and a mix of herbs, black fruit, blackberry and glycerine finish.

Recommended by wine steward at Trattoria L'Incontro in Astoria.