Another Wine Fighting World Hunger

Source: Katie Pizzuto Gonzo Gastronomy

“So you can get on with your search, baby, and I can get on with mine…”

I have just finished one of the most memorable wines I have had in a long time and what completely shocked the shit out of me was that it was a merlot. Right now you are either rolling your eyes at me for being a merlot basher or nodding your head in empathy. I don’t hate merlot—I hate mass-made, spineless merlot, which is unfortunately what lines most of our store shelves nowadays. When Miles stood outside, declaring to Jack, “No, if anyone orders merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any fucking merlot!” I laughed my ass off because he gave voice to the little merlot-shunning demon inside of me. But when I stood inside a local wineshop this past weekend talking to the owner, we got on the subject of earthy wines. You see, I LOVE funk. I love the earthy, mushroomy, barnyard character you find in certain red wines and I was on the hunt. When I asked what he recommended, he pointed to the Italian section and said, “That merlot right there.”

“Merlot? Are you serious?”

“Yeah, it’s from Friuli…a nice cold pocket for the grape. It’s all about the funk, I swear.”

At about 14 bones, I was willing to trust the guy, so I bought a bottle (along with 2 others, cuz self control is something I’m not readily working on). The next night, I cracked it open while making dinner and gave it a whiff. Plenty of black plum and red berries, but the funk was definitely in the house. The scent immediately brought a smile to my face. The guy knew what he was talking about! I spent the rest of the evening completely enthralled by a bottle of merlot, and believe me when I tell you, I didn’t think that sentence would ever spill from my lips. I finished the second half of the bottle last night, and I’m thinking it might have been even better the second night if that’s at all possible. Knowing what I know now, I’m running back to the shop this weekend and buying a case of this wine to keep around. OK, Katie, so WHAT THE HELL WAS THE WINE?!?!? Fantinel Celebrate Life Merlot 2007.

I was so taken by the wine that it took me a couple of hours to finally look at the label and read it through. Apparently, the Fantinel family donates $1 to fighting world hunger and malnutrition for every bottle of wine sold in the US. So not only was this winery generous and globally conscious, but it single-handedly restored my faith in merlot. Let me repeat—single-handedly restored my faith in merlot. I am eternally grateful to both the shop owner for knowing enough about his wines to point me in the right direction, and to the winemaker for crafting a bottle of funky goodness that reminded me of merlot’s potentials. I am also eternally grateful because it reminded me of two things that you should also remember: 1. Never hold on to your silly “varietal prejudices.” Don’t walk around like a pompous dolt, declaring your detest of cabernet or sauv. blanc or riesling, because I promise you that you will miss out on some seriously great wine at some point. I would NEVER have given that bottle of merlot a second glance and it would’ve clearly been my loss. 2. Talk to the people in the shop. I don’t care how much you think you know about wine—they’re inevitably gonna know more than you about what they stock. Trust them. If it sucks, bring it back and tell them so. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Louisa Thomas Hargrave Named Honorary Member of Long Island Merlot Alliance

Louisa Thomas Hargrave, one of the first to plant vineyards on Long Island, is now the first individual wine professional to be awarded honorary membership by the L.I.M.A. She and her ex-husband Alex Hargrave won many awards for their wines before selling the winery to Marco and Ann Marie Borghese of Castello di Borghese Vineyard and Winery in 1999.

“Louisa has done so much for the Long Island wine region and for the merlot varietal in the United States. She has always been an advocate for improving the quality of and regard for the varietal, and currently leads our research efforts into the taste and aroma profile of Long Island merlot,” said Rich Olsen-Harbich, winemaker at Raphael and a founding member of the Alliance . “We felt it was fitting to invite Louisa to join the Merlot Alliance, and we’re thrilled that she will now be an official member of our group.”

About the Long Island Merlot Alliance
Founded in 2005, the Long Island Merlot Alliance (LIMA) joins premium wine estates committed to developing quality standards in the production of classically styled merlot. The Alliance seeks recognition for merlot as the premier grape of Long Island, whether as a single varietal or in blends, and for Long Island as the leading appellation for merlot in the New World. Its members believe that, in the tradition of other great wine regions, emphasizing our excellence in one varietal does not diminish other wines from Long Island, but will help to gain attention for all varietals grown here.

Fantinel Celebrate Life Merlot 2007

This red wine from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy is 100% Merlot and has rich tones of luscious cherries, like a band of red licorice candy and sweet red fruits. Hints of anise, glycerine and and an earthiness invade your senses as if you're walking through a bramble in a lush forest. And a portion of the proceeds help fight world hunger. See below:

Celebrate the gift of life with Celebrate Life Merlot. For every bottle sold, Fantinel donates $1 to IIMSAM, the Initiatives of the Intergovernmental Institution for the Use of Micro-Algae Spirulina Against Malnutrition. Wine.com will also match the $1 donation to IIMSAM. Open this bottle of wine with family and friends and share the gift of life - and join Wine.com and Fantinel in the fight against world hunger!

Merlot is an intrinsic part of the history of this region and Fantinel's Celebrate Life Merlot is a classic example of the Friuli Grave DOC, an appellation widely considered a world-class expression of this noble grape variety.

Marco Fantinel, President of the Fantinel Group that includes the wineries of Fantinel and La Roncaia, was appointed as the goodwill ambassador for IIMSAM. IIMSAM (Intergovernmental Institution for the use of Micro-algae Spirulina Against Malnutrition) is accredited as a Permanent Observer Mission with the United Nations Economc Council to fight worldwide hunger. IIMSAM strives to counter malnutrition through the use of Spirulina: a micro-algae abundant in essential proteins, vitamins, nutrients and minerals equired by the human body. Fantinel and Wine.com will each donate $1 to IIMSAM for every bottle sold at Wine.com of it's Celebrate Life Merlot.

Source: Wine.com

A Discussion on Italian Terroir with Adolfo Folonari and Cesare Casella

This week at the Italian Culinary Center in New York City I had the pleasure of meeting Adolfo Folonari, co-CEO of Ruffino, who put together a tasting of his wines, and Cesare Casella, currently of Salumeria Rosi, who created the pairing menu.

The Folonari family has been in the wine business since the late 1700's, and bought the Ruffino Vineyards almost 100 years ago, so you can say Adolfo has wine running through his veins. Over the past 50 years they acquired seven small estates, Gretole, Santedame, Montemasso (all 3 in Chianti Classico), Lodola Nuova Estates (in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano), Greppone Mazzi Estate (Brunello di Montalcino), Poggio Casciano Estate (Chianti Colli Fiorentini), and La Solatia Estate (Chianti Colli Senesi).

The first 4 pairings with various Salumi:

Ruffino Chianti Superiore DOCG 2008

From the Poggio Casciano Estate vineyards in Chianti, using choice grapes during the harvest, as per the Superiore and Chianti Classico production standards, and aged for seven months in stainless steel tanks and two additional months in bottle. 75% Sangiovese (Minimum required by DOCG), plus 25% other varieties like Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Superiore rules require yields 10% lower than Chianti Classico. $12.99

Deep ruby colors, aromas of cherries, blue fruits, hints of tree bark and chalk, flavors of red fruits and especially spice on the back end.

Paired nicely with Prosciutto Toscana Grigliato from San Gimignano, a Tuscan ham rubbed with rosemary, black pepper and garlic, then grilled.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

With grapes coming from the Santedame, Montemasso and Gretole Estates in the Chianti Classico area, and a blend of 80% Sangiovese with a 20% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, it is then aged in a combination of oak casks, stainless steel tanks, and concrete vats for two years, with a minimum of three months in bottle. $24.99

Ruby colors with aromas of blue fruits and bacon, ripe cherries on the palate followed by white pepper, spice and tobacco.

Coupled with Prosciutto di Parma, the hind thigh of a hog, rimmed with pure white fat.


Ruffino Santedame Riserva Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

From the Santedame Estate Vineyards near Castellina in the heart of Chianti Classico, this is a beautiful blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino and a 5% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo. Only the best hand selected grapes are used for this single vineyard riserva, fermented in stainless steel, aged in French oak for twelve months with another six months in bottle. $33

Sexy bouquet of violets with intense floral aromas, complex flavors of blackberries, cherry candy, red licorice, smooth tannins with black cherries and cocoa powder on the finish.

Paired with Parmacotta, the floral aromas present in the Riserva make a fine balance to the sweet, cooked ham's brininess.



Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004

Only the best hand picked grapes are selected during several passes to pick bunches at the perfect state of maturation. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for two weeks, further macerated on the skins for 15 days, then aged in oak casks for 24 months. After resting in stainless steel tanks for another six months, the wine was bottled and aged for eight months before release. $79

100% Sangiovese Grosso with flowing aromas of plums, cherries, and barnyard, weaving into animal flavors, expressed by a full body and rich texture, with spice notes, fine tannins, and long chocolate finish.

Paired with Cacciatorino, the snack originally used by Piemontese hunters, but now popular throughout Italy. It's dense texture marbled with pockets of fat nicely work with the bold Brunello's husky demeanor.

After the initial tasting, we moved on to the luncheon where there were four more wines to sample.


Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia IGT 2009

Straw yellow colors, floral notes, kiwi, pear, hints of pineapple


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2005

80% Sangiovese, with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot combination, aged for 36 months, 3 months stainless steel, 24 months in oak casks, 3 months in vats, and at least 6 months in bottle. Violets, plums, spices with herbal notes.

Ruffino Romitorio di Santedame Toscana IGT 2004

60% Colorino, 40% Merlot, this one being my favorite of the day. Aged at least 18 months in oak casks, floral notes, black currants, dried cherry, dates, very complex with sultry earthtones and spices. Finishes beautifully with strawberries and chocolate.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2001

A fine vintage for this with 85% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, aged for 37 months is a well balanced, nicely structured classic Sangiovese Tuscan with ripe tannins and long finish.

Luncheon Menu:

Salumi assortment
Beans and Tuna
Short Ribs with Mushroom Risotto
Vanilla Panna Cotta with Chocolate Hazelnut Tuile

Celebrating Long Island’s East End: A Vacation in a Glass at the Astor Wine Center

When Steve Bate drove to the North Fork of Long Island for the first time, he was surprised at the working farms and vineyards in operation there. Since then its rise in popularity is obvious as visitors now call before-hand to ask what other events are happening. Since 2004 Steve has been Long Island Wine Council’s Executive Director, playing a large part in bringing the number of visitors to 1.3 million per year.

Winterfest in March, April’s Barrel-tastings, May’s Run For The Rosé’s ($1 from each bottle sold goes to Cancer research), and September Barrel Auction are just a handful of the events happening there. The East End has 49 wine producers and many were on hand at The Astor Wine Center to pour some of their samples. Here are a few of my favorites:

Channing Daughters 2007 Sculpture Garden
88% Merlot from the Sculpture Garden vineyard (the oldest on the South Fork, planted in 1982) and 12% Blaufrankisch from Sylvanus vineyard, aged in French and Slovenian oak barrels for twenty-two months.
Aromas of blue fruit, rosewater, dried flowers, and hints of smoke, with flavors of violets, cherries, currants and blueberries.

Jamesport Vineyards 2005 Melange de Trois
Bordeaux blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc. Ocean breeze aromas open to mild, mineral earthtones, and smoked meats and tobacco with a delicious chewy palate, white pepper, sour cherry and a spicy cinnamon finish… soft, silky, smooth.

Wölffer Estates 2006 Fatalis Fatum
42% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc, 27.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1.5% Barbera, and aged 22 months in oak. Fragrant aromas of smoky bacon, red licorice, and a palate of blueberry, powdered violet candies, and sour cherries. Nicely integrated and finishes with very mild spice sprinkled over ripe cherries.

Castello di Borghese 2005 Merlot
Aged in French oak barrels for 13 months. Nose of black pepper spices, chalk, blue fruits, violets, and a lively, earthy palate.

Clovis Point 2007 Archaeology
56% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot, 6% Syrah, whew! Aromas of roses, glycerine, steel, blueberry, nicely balanced for its youth, but will be a keeper. Flavors of blue fruits, cola, crushed stones and plums.

(I know I’m partial to reds, so to be fair I also tried a Rosé)
Wölffer Estates 2008 Grandioso Rosé
Bouquet of peaches, honeysuckle, flavors of pears, kiwi, mineral, grapefruit rind, reminding me that Spring is Here!

The Long Island Wine Blind Challenge

This past week the Long Island Wine Council sponsored a seminar and blind tasting of its wines to compare them with others from international regions. The day started with a series of speeches about some of the history of Long Island wines, how the wines were picked for the blind tasting, followed by Q&A.

The blind tasting consisted of 20 wines, 10 from Long Island vs. 10 non Long Island. The breakdown was 5 flights of 4 each of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay (unoaked), Chardonnay (oaked), Merlot and Cabernet Franc. I just read another blogger's post about how he/she identified the Long Island wines successfully. I didn't try to idenify the wines but instead picked my favorite from each flight and 1 out of 5 were from Long Island. So, here we go.

Flight 1 Sauvignon Blanc

Osprey’s Dominion Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (LI)
Reverdy “Hippolyte” Sancerre 2007 (FR)
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (NZ)*
Palmer Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (LI)

*My blind favorite

Flight 2 Unoaked Chardonnay

Daniel Dampt Chablis 2007 (FR)
Macari Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 (LI)
Channing Daughters “Scuttlehole” Chardonnay 2008 (LI)**
Domaine Renaud Pouilly-Fuisse 2007 (FR)

**My blind favorite

Flight 3 Oaked Chardonnay

Flowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2007 (CA)***
Pelligrini Estate Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 (LI)
Langoureau Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “La Grerenne” 2007 (FR)
Castello Di Borghese Chardonnay 2006 (LI)

***My blind favorite

Flight 4 Merlot

Grapes of Roth Merlot 2005 (LI)
Clos L’Oratoire St. Emilion 2005 (FR)
Raphael Merlot 2005 (LI)
Craggy Range Gimblett Gravel 2004 (NZ) ****

****My blind favorite

Flight 5 Cabernet Franc

Shinn Estates Cabernet Franc 2007 (LI)
Catherine Et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Franc DE Pied 2007 (FR)
Dare By Viader Cabernet Franc 2005 (CA) *****
Bedell Cabernet Franc 2005 (LI)

*****My blind favorite

Mustache Vineyards Merlot 2011 Lodi California

From Lodi California this excellent Merlot is a huge bargain at $15 per bottle! It's actually a blend of 87% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Sirah and 2% Petit Verdot and is truly a thing of beauty. After fermentation the grapes were soft pressed and 30% went into French and American oak barrels while 70% went into stainless steel tanks for 11 months prior to bottling.

Warm rose colors the glass, with enormous ripe fruit aromas showing raisins, spices, maple syrup, vanilla, plums and marzipan. On the palate blueberry, blackberry, cola, white pepper and leather. Pretty acidity, nicely integrated and balanced with a long, smooth finish.

Markham Merlot 2014

Wow, this $26 bottle drinks like it's $50! Chewy with silky tannins and excellent balance. Ruby red colors, aromas of strawberry jam, marzipan and cigar box. The palate shows caramel, baked fruit pie, licorice and milk chocolate. A perfect special red for the Holiday season.

"Located in Napa Valley, Markham owns 350 acres of vineyards, strategically located in several of the area's best growing regions. The Estate vineyards provide the backbone for the blend, totaling 50% of this bottling. Merlot from Oak Knoll contributes sour cherry character while Yountville components provide the classic Bing cherry aromas and flavor. The jammy notes come from blending in warmer up-valley fruit from Calistoga vineyards. Much care is taken to maximize the filtered light and allow the Merlot to hang freely within the canopy during harvest. This allows the fruit to mature and color evenly. The wines are sent to barrel as individual lots to mature, allowing for greater understanding of the direct impact of our viticultural and fermentation practices each vintage. "

Pine Ridge Carneros Merlot 2005

This Pine Ridge 2005 Carneros Merlot from the Napa Valley/Carneros region of California is 98% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Malbec and aged 15 months in French oak barrels. It shows dark aromas of blackberries, cherry and blueberry with notes of coffee, tobacco and cedar. The flavors are bright, but balanced, with flecks of oak and a finish of chocolate. Lush flavors combined with a silky texture allow for a nice finish. This is ready to drink now, or you can lay it down for 10 years. SRP is $45. I tasted this wine at the California Wine Month expo at Espace on west 42nd street in NYC.

Great Holiday Gift Ideas: Three Excellent Reds for Under $40 Each

Every once in a while you need to splurge a little, and now is the perfect season to buy that really good wine you've been wanting to try. Well, here are picks of three of my favorite reds to treat yourself to.... (or bring as gifts for the holidays) for under $40 each.

Castello di Gabbiano Alleanza 2009 IGT, Italy

Sourced from the best Merlot and Cabernet vines on the Gabbiano estate, this blend is made from 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, fermented in stainless steel and aged for 18 months in new French oak.

Starting with rich ruby red colors, a beautifully complex bouquet of roses, fresh herbs, black pepper and mild spices, while delicious flavors wind through a blend of blueberry, blackberry, ripe dark cherry, leather, raspberry and especially cloves.

Very balanced, mild sweet tannins with fresh acidity and a dark fruit finish. Love this wine! $40

Termes 2009, Spain

100% hand harvested, 4 months in stainless steel tanks, then aged in French oak barrels for 14-16 months. (The 2008 was expressly fresh fruit, while the 2009 was slightly warmer vintage like 06, 03 with a level of intensity, and lots of character). Aromas of raspberry, strawberry, fruity, sweet lush tannins, lively vibrant fruit character. nice structure, toasted, cedar, layered juicy texture on palate. Pairs beautifully with salumi, which rounds out the tannins. SRP $30

Macari Vineyards Merlot 2005, Long Island

soaked in a perfume of damp earth, green peppers, currant, blackberry, vanilla and ripe plum enmeshed with an herbaceous and lush mouth-feel surrounded by caramel candy and lively tannins redolent of leather and a long toasty finish. $36

Vertical Tasting of 3 Chateau Rauzan-Segla in New Chateau Baccarat Glasses

Baccarat's presentation of their beautifully designed crystal wine glasses was matched only by the vertical tasting of 3 vintages of Chateau Rauzan-Segla Gran Cru Classe-Margaux.

The new design of the Chateau Baccarat glass collection successfully unleashes the full potential of the wines. The new shape works this way, the wide base prevents alcohols from overpowering the aromatics of the wine, the closed angle allows the the aromas to fill the glass when swirling, and the "vertical chimney" redirects and consolidates the aromas.

The first test was a comparison between the Baccarat glass and a common Bordeaux wine glass, and I have to admit the wines' attributes were more apparent from the former.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2006 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, aged in 50% French oak barrels for 18 months.
Clean colors of warm ruby, aromas of violets, raspberry, hints of leather, tobacco and candied fruit and caramel countered by flavors of spice with a vegetal edge, slightly tight tannins, white pepper with a warm mouth feel.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2001 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
63.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33.5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, aged in 50% French oak barrels for 18 months.
Classic Bordeaux style, darker ruby colors, ripe cherries and floral aromas accented by violets and licorice, on the palate there's a meaty and spicy tang combining with chalk, pepper and earth, echoes of ripe cherries and raspberry followed by a smart balance and long finish.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2000 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, aged in 60% new oak barrels for 18 months.
Deep blackberry ruby colors, beautiful aromas colored by pastel and dried flowers (violet), chocolate and vanilla with flavors of black fruits, cassis, glycerine and spice. Beautifully balanced, smooth and wonderful finish.

Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley Merlot 2005

This Merlot from Washington's Columbia Valley is made from grapes sourced from Cold Creek, Canoe Ridge and Wahluke Slope, and aged 15 months in American and French oak.

Complex and fruit forward, this workhorse of a Merlot exhibits a bouquet of cola, plums and ripe blueberries along with plump flavors of black cherries, spices and leather... and at the very end an herbal finish. Nicely structured and balanced well for the price point of about $15,

Consorzio Vino Chianti Reception and Dinner at Maialino Restaurant

On Monday October 25, 2010, The Consorzio Vino Chianti presented an exclusive reception and dinner at Maialino Restaurant, the newest restaurant from Danny Meyer's Union Square Hospitality Group, Maialino is a neighborhood Roman trattoria overlooking Gramercy Park. The dinner was more informal compared with the panel discussions and tastings earlier, and was a perfect end to the day.

The Menu


Salumi & Antipasti
Carciofini Fritti
Insalata Misticanza

Primi
Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe
or
Bombolotti all' Amatriciana

Secondi
Pollo alla Diavolo
or Porchetta

Dolce
Mixed Selection

The Wines


Badia di Morrona Il Sodi Del Paretaio Chianti DOCG 2009
85% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, 10 months aged in stainless steel vats. Violet, ripe cherries, coffee, cocoa, mint with floral finish.


Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Gabbiano DOCG 2009
90% Sangiovese, 10% other red grapes from the area, 3 months of aging in stainless steel vats, a bouquet of super ripe cherries, red fruits, cocoa, and sage with an herbal infused honey. Freshness is apparent and a fine, mellow character displayed with an overall balance.

Melini Borghi d'Elsa Chianti DOCG 2009
85% Sangiovese Grosso with 15% Canaiolo, Malvasia, Trebbiano, Merlot, 3 months aging in stainless steel, more floral undertones mingling with forest floor, a bit of toasted nuts, ripe cherries and raspberries.

Piccini Chianti DOCG 2009
95% Sangiovese with 5% Ciliegiolo, fresh fruity cherries, red berries, soft tannins, smooth.



Ruffino Chianti 2009 DOCG
75% minimum Sangiovese and the balance Canaiolo and Colorino, 4 months in stainless steel and 2 months in bottle. Aromas of lavender and fruity undertones with a hints of gelato, and flavors of plums leading to a spicy laced finish.

Melini San Lorenzo Fattorie Melini Chianto DOCG 2008
85% Sangiovese Grosso with 15% Canaiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in stainless steel 4-5 months, raspberries and cassis with floral waves of violets, forest floor.


Ruffino Chianti Superiore 2008 DOCG
A minimum of 75% Sangiovese and other varieties including Canaiolo and Colorino, the best grapes are carefully selected from the harvest for the Superiore, aged in stainless steel vats for 7 months then three months in bottle. Ruby coloring in the glass with violet around the rim, aromas of black cherries, plums, along with flavors reflecting spices and black pepper, a long soft finish.

... and with dessert we sampled two delicious Vin Santo:


Badia Di Morrona VinSanto Del Chianti 2006 DOC
70% Trebbiano, 15% Malvasia Bianca, 15% Colombana, after the harvest, grapes are selected and hung from the ceiling until January, then aged in caratelli (small kegs) for 3 years, beautiful golden colors with apricot and almond bouquet.

Castelvecchio Chiacchierata Notturna VinSanto Del Chianti 2003 DOC
70% Trebbiano and 30% Sangiovese (that's right, Sangiovese), grapes are selected and hung from the ceiling until December, then aged in caratelli for 5 years, and 3 months in bottle before release. Intense perfumed aromas of dried fruits with honey and cocoa.

Concha Y Toro Casillero del Diablo Merlot Reserve 2006 Chile

Smooth but with decent structure, this Chilean Merlot (a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Carménère) brings aromas of plums mingled with berries and pencil lead... then plays on the palate with spices, currants, cherries and a smokey chocolate. In the $8-9 range, this is a workhorse of a good everyday food wine or enjoyed on its own. I had it with home-made pasta and cannelloni beans with a cream spinach sauce.

Thanksgiving Pick: Tangley Oaks Merlot 2010

Excellent Thanksgiving Pick!

It seems that the producers use a team philosophy in selecting the best Merlot grapes from the Napa, Sonoma and Central Coast area. They strive to stay true to the tradition of the particular varietal, separate them into lots, and choose the best.

Stainless steel tank fermented, red fruits, dark cherry, summer fruit, plum, blackberry, mocha, coffee, herbal, umami, nicely balanced. This would match very well with a Turkey dinner.

I discovered this gem at my favorite place to shop for wine, Pop's Wines & Spirits in Island Park for $14. I looked around and average price is just under $20, and IMHO Tangley Oaks Merlot drinks like a $40 bottle.

Cupcake Vineyards Central Coast Merlot 2009

Sourced from vineyards in the Central Coast region, Cupcake Vineyards brings this California Merlot to the table for a mere $10 price tag but it's definitely worth way more. Good body weight and texture express aromas full of gusto, blueberries and red cherries, while on the palate smooth cassis and smoky flavors influenced by the oak and hints of coffee and dark chocolate. Supple tannins but smooth and attractive with a matching finish. Really like this as an every day Merlot.

WINEMAKING NOTES:
The grapes were cool fermented with a serious regimen of pump-overs in the early stages of fermentation to extract the soft tannins and color during the aqueous phase. The grape skins were then pressed before the fermentation reached dryness to maintain the wines lush tannin structure. The must was kept cool during fermentation to help create a slower fermentation and allow the wine to retain more aromatic properties as well as complexity of flavor and body. The wine was aged in premium American oak barrels — adding richness and complexity.

Zenato Merlot Delle Venezie 2005

This Italian merlot has aromas of ripe berries set against a toasted oak background, and smoked meats with a palate of blueberry pie and sour cherry and finally milk chocolate and vanilla. Paired with a beautiful veal milanese at Il Poeta... yum.

Winemaker notes:

A noble red for aging, made with procedures appropriate to merlot fruit from the “delle Venezie” area. After crushing-destemming, and the traditional one-week maceration on the skins, the wine remains in steel until malolactic fermentation finishes.

Maturation follows in 300-litre French oak, then 6 months bottle-aging.

Macari Vineyards Merlot Reserve 2007

A beautiful showing from Macari Vineyards on Long Island's North Fork, 100% Merlot with medium body and dark violet colors, luscious aromas of plum and violets, while on the palate notes of umami, contrasted by raspberry candy, cherry, clove, spice, chocolate, and plum with lively tannins and vestiges of oak, followed by a very long and attractive finish.

About Macari Vineyards

Macari Vineyards, located on the North Fork of Eastern Long Island in Mattituck, is owned and operated by the Macari Family. The business is led by owners Joseph Macari Sr. and his wife, Katherine, and Joseph Macari Jr., who is at the helm of the winery with his wife, Alexandra. Though Macari Vineyards was established in 1995, the Macari Family has owned the 500 acre waterfront estate for nearly 50 years. In this time, they have been careful environmental stewards of the land. What were once potato fields and farmland has become a vineyard of 180 acres of vines with additional fields of compost, farmland, and a home to cows, goats, Sicilian donkeys and ducks.

Macari is on the cutting edge of viticulture and is dedicated to a more natural approach to winemaking. Joseph Macari, Jr. is recognized as a pioneer in the movement towards organic and sustainable farming on Long Island, employing principles of biodynamic farming since the vineyard’s first plantings. Extensive soil preparation, rich composts, careful cover cropping and a consideration to wildlife and terrain makes Macari's 180 planted acres stand out from the rest. Taking into account the health of the environment as a whole, and moving away from the harmful effects of pesticides to a more natural and meticulous caretaking of the soil and plants, ultimately yields premium wines.

San Felice Deja Vu

One of the most memorable parts of my cycling trip through Tuscany was a visit to Tenuta San Felice at Relais Borgo San Felice. I remember tasting their delicious Il Grigio Chianti Classico Reserva which I believe was a 1999 or even a 1997. So it was with extreme surprise and excitement that while attending the Vino 2009 Italian Wine Week at New York's Hilton Hotel, I found myself standing at a table with the wines from San Felice.

Pouring that day was the Diretorre Comerciale, Fabrizio Nencioni who smoothly guided me through an amazingly rich selection of reds from the regions in and around San Felice. Out of the five that I sampled three were from Tenuta San Felice in Chianti Classico, one was from Tenuta Campogiovanni in Montalcino and one from Tenuta Perolla in Maremma.

1st: 2006 San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG (Tenuta San Felice)

100% Sangiovese, 12 months in Slavonian oak casks, with ruby red coloring, aromas of cherries, raspberries and violets, smooth tannins and crisp acidity. $17

2nd: 2005 Il Grigio Chianti Classico Reserva DOCG (Tenuta San Felice)

24 months in oak, 12 months in bottle, this is one I remember best, on the label was a medeival knight painted by Titian. Deep ruby red colors, aromas of red berries and violets. $23.

3rd: 2003 Vigorelli - Toscana IGT (Tenuta San Felice)

This one is a fine Supertuscan blended with 45% Sangiovese, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, 20 months in French oak, 10 months in bottle, garnet colors, aromas of red currant and earth, thick in texture with yummy silky tannins and hints of vanilla. $60.

4th: Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG (Tenuta Perolla)

3 years in Slavonian oak casks and 12 months in bottle, deep red colors, black fruits, blueberries, even some strawberries, smoke, leather and tobacco with a beautiful long finish.

5th: Poggibano Maremma Toscana IGT (Tenuta Perolla)

Mostly Merlot blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, 12 months in barriques followed by 6 months in bottles, deep garnet coloring, blackberries, blueberries and ripe cherries and a nice balance.

All photos by Dave Trieger © 2006

Gary Grunner from Grapes on the Go at Boston Wine Expo

This weekend at The Boston Wine Expo Gary Grunner, from Grapes On The Go, exhibited the following Italian wines from the Ferragamo family's Tuscan vineyards, Il Borro and Castiglion Del Bosco:

Il Borro Lamelle Chardonnay 2006 IGT



This Chardonnay has a pale yellow color, fruity rich aromas of apple and peach with notes of floral & lemon. Flavors of pear and vanilla balanced with nice acidity.

 Notes - The Chardonnay grapes for ‘Lamelle’ are carefully selected from vineyards within the Il Borro Estate in San Giustino Val d’Arno in Arezzo. The hand harvested grapes are immediately transferred to the winery and sorted manually. 50% of the wine is fermented in new French oak barriques & 50% in stainless steel for about 10 days.


Castiglion Del Bosco Dainero 2004 IGT



From the Tuscan region of Montalcino comes this mouthwatering blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Sangiovese grapes.

 Aged in barriques for 6 months, it puts on an aromatic show of violet, currant and chocolate all wrapped in a full bodied style. Deep purple and displaying a round, soft fruitiness, flavors emerge quickly of blackberries, cherries and a slightly smokey, vegetal quality at the finish.

Tenuta Il Borro Pian di Nova Toscana 2005 IGT


Another blend from Il Borro of 75% Syrah and 25% Sangiovese reflects a subtle nose of red cherries, currants and leather, with hints of vanilla and a finish of spices, namely cinnamon and cloves. 

The wines simplicity make it an attractive blend that utilizes the best of both grapes, Syrah for a rich spiciness and Sangiovese for an earthy freshness.


Tenuta Il Borro Toscana 2005 IGT



From Arezzo, Italy this blend is a balancing act of 50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah, and 5% Petit Verdot and aged in French barriques for 12 months. 

Nuances of violets, toast and roses on the nose and even a tinge of fresh baked pie... soft tannins preview the ripe flavors of blueberries, black cherries and a rich smokiness. The color is a cool ruby with medium weight, but the mouthfeel is a bit more substantial with rich textures and a satisfying finish that says SuperTuscan.



Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2003



Castiglion del Bosco produces this Brunello di Montalcino which is aged in oak for 2 years, then in bottle for another 2. 

It is a traditional 100% Sangiovese from Tuscany, has ruby coloring and intense inviting aromas of vanilla with flavors of plum, orange peel and a sweet campfire smokiness. Opened to a very good balance of fruit and soft tannins, but still it's a powerful red with 13.5% alcohol content.

 A very velvety wine.