Truth In Wine Labeling

Unprecedented Coalition of International Wine Regions Joined By Notable Chefs in Effort to Protect Wine Place Names

NEW YORK - October 19, 2011 - Leadership from 15 of the world's premier wine regions came together along with renowned chefs from around the globe to call on policymakers to heed growing consumer demand for wine truth-in-labeling.

Results from a recent poll of U.S. consumers, conducted by Public Opinion Strategies, released today found that Americans, in particular, have very strong feelings about the role of location in making wine-purchasing decisions. Key findings from the poll of 1,000 U.S. wine drinkers include:

79 percent consider the region where a wine comes from an important factor when buying a bottle of wine;

75 percent report they would be less likely to buy a wine if they learned that it claimed to be from a place like Champagne, Napa Valley or Oregon, but in actuality was not;

84 percent think that the region a wine comes from is extremely important in determining its quality;

96 percent say that consumers deserve to know that the location where wine grapes are grown is accurately stated on wine labels; and

98 percent support establishing worldwide standards for all winemakers that would require that they accurately state the location where wine grapes are grown on wine labels.

"In over 20 years of polling, rarely have we seen such strong feelings on an issue like this," said Rob Autry, partner of Public Opinion Strategies and the lead pollster on this project. "Consumer sentiment this strong is a clear signal that Americans care a great deal about the location a wine comes from and clearly want ready access to that information when looking at a bottle."

Perhaps most troubling was the fact that despite broad interest in wine location from all sectors of the U.S. wine-consuming populace, when presented with two labels to compare side by side, most consumers were unable to determine the correct origin of the wine. This underscores the challenges winemakers face with current labeling laws.

"The research released today shows consumers are more focused on product origins than ever before and it isn't just a passing concern, but one they feel extraordinarily strong about," said Linda Reiff, executive director of Napa Valley Vintners. "When a place name is misused, a part of the identity of that distinctive wine region is lost and consumers can be misled. This poll shows that U.S. consumers understand this and are looking for clear labeling of wine place names when they purchase wines."

"The 15 regions gathered here today agree that great wine is made in unique places all over the world and that these unique place names must be protected. A failure to do so undermines all of these wine-growing regions and, as the research shows, runs counter to the expectations of the consumer," said Bruno Paillard, representing the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne. "People want to know where their wines come from. The Declaration signatories have taken a global stand for truth-in-labeling and we are committed to working together to maintain and protect the integrity of wine place names."

The poll was released by the signatories to the Joint Declaration to Protect Wine Place & Origin, a coalition first formed in 2005 when the initial global declaration was signed. The organization has since doubled in size, welcoming its two newest members - Rioja and Long Island - at this year's meeting in New York.

In addition to the growing number of wine regions joining the campaign to protect place names, some of the world's preeminent names in food and wine have joined hands with the coalition as well. An open letter was released today signed by chefs and sommeliers lending their support for truth in wine labeling. Signatories include Thomas Keller from Per Se and the French Laundry; Ferran Adrià from El Bulli; Daniel Boulud from Daniel; Alexandre Ferrand from Alain Ducasse; Wolfgang Puck from Wolfgang Puck Restaurants; Antoine Hernandez from Joël Robuchon; Michel Richard from Citronelle; José Andrés from Jaleo and minibar; Pontus Elofsson from Noma; Charlie Palmer from Charlie Palmer Restaurants and many others from around the globe.

"We support the Joint Declaration to Protect Wine Place & Origin because place names are central to understanding the foods and wines we work with every day," says José Andrés, a James Beard Award-winning chef with restaurants in Washington, D.C.; Las Vegas and Los Angeles. "We celebrate foods and wines from all over the world every day, because they bring special elements to the table and we believe that clear labeling is central to this experience."

"Americans care about where their food and wine are from more than ever before, so we must stand together to ensure that consumers accurately receive the location-driven products they desire," says Chef Ken Frank of Napa Valley's landmark restaurant, La Toque.

The coalition hopes that the clear and resounding results of consumer survey data, combined with the accelerated interest on the part of chefs and other food and wine experts and an overwhelming majority of the world's leading wine regions now working in unison will push lawmakers and others around the globe to better protect wine place names in the U.S. and beyond.

By signing the Declaration, the 15 wine regions have collectively affirmed that geographic names are fundamental tools for consumers to identify the wines from specific wine-growing areas. In their meetings today in New York, the regions renewed their commitment to working together on the consumer education and public advocacy necessary to ensure that these names are protected and respected worldwide.

The Joint Declaration to Protect Wine Place & Origin was originally signed on July 26, 2005, and now has the support of 15 international wine regions including Champagne, France; Chianti Classico, Italy; Jerez, Spain; Long Island, New York; Napa Valley, California; Oregon state; Paso Robles, California; Porto, Portugal; Rioja, Spain; Sonoma County, California; Tokaj, Hungary; Victoria, Australia; Walla Walla Valley, Washington; Washington state; and Western Australia. These quality wine regions have come together to foster the growing global recognition that location is the most important ingredient in wine. To lend support and read the full text of the Declaration, visit protect place.

G.Washington Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010

This remarkable blend of 85.6% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from Alexander Valley, 10.4% Petit Verdot from Andrus Island Vineyards in Clarksburg and 4% Malbec from Lodi's Cinque Terre Estate Vineyard, is aged in oak for 18 months. It has deep ruby colors and shows aromas of ripe cherries, tobacco and black fruits, while the palate exudes rich flavors of cassis, dark chocolate and coffee with cedar undertones leaving you with a beautiful acidity and great finish.

G.Washington is truly a gem, especially at am SRP of $26. If you shop around you might find it for a bit less. Available at Windsor Wine Shop in NYC, Jolson's Fine Wines in Astoria and Eaglehouse W&S on LI.

Organic Wine & Cheese Pairing

This past Saturday Dan Olson hosted an Organic Wine & Cheese Pairing at The Wine Room of Forest Hills. There were amazing pairings of six wines (three white and three red picked by Gary Grunner for The Wine Room) with six cheeses (Dan had help from cheesemonger, Leah Juhl). All of the cheeses were made in Wisconsin, Dan's home state, and from Murray's Cheese Shop, while the wines were from Spain, Chile, Argentina, and Washington.

Mike Jett and his band provided the musical background while Carolina from The Wine Room made her rounds to make sure everything was going smoothly.

Try these combinations (I'll list the whites on this post... stay tuned for the reds!):

Cuma Torrontes (Argentina) Perfumed bouquet of peaches, apricots and tropical fruit. Light dry and crisp with a delicate finish.

paired with

Dante. Wisconsin Sheep Dairy Cooperative, Sheeps milk, dry, firm, aged minimum 6 months. Rich, nutty flavor with hints of hazelnuts and spices. 2008 American Cheese Society Award Winner.

Natura Chardonnay Chile Pale yellow with an aroma and flavor of citrus, toast, butter, fruit and plenty of apples and pears. Great long finish.

paired with

Pleasant Ridge Reserve Upland Creamery Raw cow's milk in traditional French Alpine method. Firm, subtle yet complex flavors that change with the season. Nutty, milky flavors, long finish. 2008 American Cheese Society Award Winner.

Badger Mountain Reisling (Washington state) Lemon colored with perfumed aroma of spicy apples and fruit salad. Off-dry and quite pleasing with a crisp, lime flavored finish and minerally aftertaste.

paired with

Black River Blue Cheese. North Henderson Cheese Coop. Pasteurized cow's milk. Classic from an 80 year old company. Lovely soft texture complements the intense blue. An all around blue good for everything.

2004 Cayalla RTW (Red Table Wine) Oregon

From the Columbia and Walla Walla Valley in Oregon comes this tasty blend made from 35% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 14% Syrah. It is aged for 9 months in French oak barrels before blending.

Aromas of cassis and vanilla complimented with exotic flavors of sour cherries, bittersweet chocolate, cinnamon, licorice and stewed prunes. Balanced, but with a bold character and showing a long finish with medium tannins.

Winemaker notes:

The Cayalla brand has been created by a team with over 75 years of experience in the Pacific Northwest wine industry. Cayalla wines exhibit the finest qualities derived from grapes grown in the Walla Walla and Columbia Valleys.

The Columbia Valley and Walla Walla Valley are shared by both Oregon and Washington State. The Walla Walla Valley is a small region that lies within the confines of the larger Columbia Valley. Both appellations are east of the Cascade Mountains and are very much warmer and drier than the Willamette Valley of western Oregon. The climate east of the Cascade Mountains is far more hospitable to the Bordeaux and Rhone varietals.

Select Cuvees of Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah from top sites in the Walla Walla Valley were blended with choice lots from the Columbia Valley to produce this unique wine. After going through malo-lactic fermentation, the wines were aged nine months in a combination of new, one year, and two-year old French oak barrels prior to final blending and bottling.

We chose the name, Cayalla, as it is unique, memorable, and trademarketable. It is derived from the names of the Cayuse and Walla Walla tribes of eastern Washington and eastern Oregon.

Full disclosure: This bottle was a complimentary sample for Vigna Uva Vino from Firesteed Cellars.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Riesling Columbia Valley Washington 2005

This Riesling from Washington's Columbia Valley exhibits floral aromas of honeysuckle with honey sweet flavors ripe with fruits of canteloupe and citrus rinds.

First paired with Camembert cheese, which did not work at all, and tended to contrast to the extreme, then switched to a Spanish Manchego which balanced well and took the sweetness of the Riesling down a notch.

Cereghino Smith Sangiovese Reserve 2004

A little background about Cereghino Smith Sangiovese Reserve 2004 provided by Keith Beavers:

The story goes like this: Fred Smith from the band Television and his wife whose name I cannot remember (note from Dave T. I believe her name is Paula Cereghino) lived on Houston back in the late seventies and eighties. His wife (girlfriend at the time maybe) comes from a wine producing family from Washington state. Her grandfather was a winemaker, and one vintage, he passed away before harvest--so her father took on the responsibility of running the winery. So wine making was in her blood from the get. One day the two of them went to the Brooklyn Terminal Market and bought a bunch of grapes from California and had a de-stemming party in the backyard of their building in Houston. They started having fun making homemade wine, and their friends got into it, too. Their friends Tish and Snooky, who were starting their own line of hair dye called Manic Panic, used to take a bottle of Fred and his wife's wine to clients as presents. Fast forward a decade, and they now live in Bloomington, New York and make wine on a more professional level. They have a line of five or six wines that are mostly blends and have great flavor.

I was introduced to Fred and his wife through a customer who happened into our shop a couple of months ago. This lady walks in wearing ripped up jeans and black, worn Chucks with a CBGB's t-shirt ripped "Flashdance" style and Manic Panic "wild fire" red hair. Her little chihuahua is dressed in a similar shirt, and she is in love with the shop because of the location and how the hood has changed (she has got to be in her sixties). She starts telling me about Fred Smith from Television and how he and his wife make wine upstate and that I should try it. I agree, and she calls him right there on the spot and hands me the phone. So Fred and I have a convo and agree to meet. His wife and him come by the shop, and I try the whole line. This is NYC, East Village, Alphabet City history here. I couldn't not take one or two bottles. The cool thing is the wines are good. You can tell there is some family history of craft in the works here. That and pure passion.

Keith Beavers
http://abcwineco.com/
http://invino-ny.com/
http://evwg.blogspot.com/

Wine & Wood

I recently discovered the website of an artist from Washington state by the name of Bob Buhl who takes recycled wine barrels and transforms them into wonderful furniture pieces. His website is called Bare Woodworks and definitely is worth a browse.

Meanwhile, back east in Massachusetts, check out Mike McCoy's beautiful one of a kind pieces at Rocket Age Lighting or Castlewerks, his newest creation is the Cyclone Table Lamp.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Washington State

I've tried their Chardonnay, Riesling and Merlot, so to round out the Chateau Ste. Michelle line, I finally got to try their Cabernet Sauvignon. My buddy Mark found this older vintage in his local wine shop, Douglaston Wine & Spirits in Little Neck, NY, at first buying a single bottle, then going back the same day to purchase a half case.

Opaque dark ruby colors with rusty brick around the rim of the glass. On the nose, this cab went wild, with candy, cranberry sauce, and even saltwater combining for a rich gamut of aromas. On the palate, I'd call it a fruit bomb, on the sweeter side of dry with healthy but rounded tannins, and a marked smoothness. Complex flavors showing blackberry and strawberry fruits, anise, tobacco and some lively smokiness. Excellent balance of nose & palate, tied together smartly in a package for under $15, although this might pass for a $40-50 bottle. This is a great value in my book. 

Covey Run dry Riesling 2007 Columbia Valley Washington

Light golden hues of straw, hints of honeysuckle, apricot and melon aromas, with supple, lemon rinds and spicy flavors reflected by green apple and a buttery finish.

Chateau Ste Michelle Chardonnay 2006 Columbia Valley

At his cabana at the beach this afternoon my friend (thanks Mark!) invited me to try a Washington state Chardonnay with him along with some shrimp cocktail -- it was a perfect match, not to mention refreshing. On the nose are aromas of an array of citrus fruits, honey and mild oak, while on the palate a buttery cream with a nice acidity, combined to form a complex, balanced wine. Not usually a big white wine fan, this one was one I could drink easily and the price is right, about $13. I could also see this going well with chicken or swordfish or even a spicy Thai dish.

Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley Merlot 2005

This Merlot from Washington's Columbia Valley is made from grapes sourced from Cold Creek, Canoe Ridge and Wahluke Slope, and aged 15 months in American and French oak.

Complex and fruit forward, this workhorse of a Merlot exhibits a bouquet of cola, plums and ripe blueberries along with plump flavors of black cherries, spices and leather... and at the very end an herbal finish. Nicely structured and balanced well for the price point of about $15,

The Best from the 2006 vintage

Following is a list of the best wine regions of the world from the 2006 vintage. FRANCE: Pomerol in Bordeaux • Burgundy • Cote Rotie/Hermitage • Chateauneuf du Pape • ITALY: Piedmont • Tuscany • GERMANY: Mosel-Saar-Ruwer • AUSTRIA: Riesling, Gruner Veltliner • AUSTRALIA: Barosa/Clare/McLaren • NEW ZEALAND • ARGENTINA • CALIFORNIA: Cabernet Sauvignon • OREGON: Pinot Noir • WASHINGTON: Cabernet Sauvignon. Art © 2008 by Dave Trieger

Columbia-Crest Two Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Washington

The "Two Vines" designation by Columbia-Crest is to honor the trellising of the vines, which provides better exposure and richer wines, this one aged in oak for 12 months.

Aromas of vanilla, blueberry, red currant and oak... up front the flavors range from glycerine, black cherries and sweet raspberries to familiar hints of caramel on the back palate. A nice effort by Columbia-Crest and a decent everyday wine, in the $8 range.

Ice Age Comes to the Lower East Side via Preserve24

After a four million dollar investment, and a year an a half of hard work, venture partners Terry Goggin and his son, artist Brian Goggin opened Preserve24 last spring. The space is a wondrous work of art, and one of the most expansive concepts for a restaurant I’ve ever seen. 

Serving as a multi-disciplinary art installation, the eye-popping interior utilizes old and new implements for an upcoming 2014 expedition to Greenland. During this expedition, a two-ton iceberg will be extracted from an ice-age glacier, then brought to New York and installed in a reliquary inside the restaurant. 

The owners feel this unique installation of ancient ice is the perfect demonstration of the effect man has had on planetary change, and will serve as a reminder for all of us that the only way we can reverse the damage already done is by becoming aware, sustainable, and most importantly, accountable.

Brian Goggin, along with fellow artist Peter Cole designed the interior with amazing attention to detail, from the wall of ice-cutting tools to ceiling fans made from bakers paddles, as well as oars, and a propeller. Each room is like a three dimensional collage comprised of all sorts of repurposed items like beer tap handles made from piano foot pedals, an 1860 oyster boat reconstructed into a raw bar, and a piano bar made out of...you guessed it…old pianos.  In the kitchen there’s a wood-burning, potbelly stove (affectionately named Pavarotti) where Chef John Parlatore uses local proprietors and purveyors in an effort to operate his kitchen with a minimal carbon footprint. There's so much to take in, that at first it's a bit of a sensory overload, but to my mind it's the perfect excuse to go back again, aside from the food, which is spectacular.

My friends and I whet our appetites with the Sea Witch, a diabolical concoction of vodka, Jalapeno Chartreuse, lime, and passion fruit puree, then shared a mix of mouth watering appetizers including such raw bar favs as oysters, spicy lobster claw and jumbo shrimp, followed by roasted bone marrow with crispy guanciale, and parsley and onion marmalade. Our main course included organic roasted chicken,  a cooked-to-perfection 40 oz porterhouse steak, truffle fries, roasted vegetables, and charred broccoli with cheese sauce, as well as local mushrooms, accompanied perfectly by a bottle of Pitch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 from Washington State. Dessert was a heavenly, homemade banana and chocolate ice cream topped off with Weavers coffee.

Our conclusion: Preserve 24 truly is a feast for the eyes, for the belly, and for the soul.

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2006

From Washington state initial aromas of smoke, followed by raw meats and a palate of rich ripe cherries, blueberries and nice solid tannins. Paired beautifully with appetizer of gorgonzola stuffed figs with arugula, honey toasted walnuts and balsamic and a main course of Steak au Poivre at Alberto's Restaurant on Metropolitain and Forest Hills, NY.

Chateau Ste Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2015

Aged in American and French oak for six months this bright Chardonnay from Columbia Valley, Washington is a soft and fresh white for summertime pairing.

Pale yellow in the glass, opens with a floral blast then aromas follow showing green apples and pears. On the palate is a wave of ocean foam and other reminders of the sea, also a hint of butter, lemon rind, honey and raw oak.

Will pair perfectly with a pasta with shrimp, garlic and oil, also worth a try with a salmon and ginger dish or crab.

14% alcohol, lowest price was online at Wine.com at $8.99

Primarius Pinot Noir 2007 Oregon

With Pinot Noir sourced from high quality Oregon vineyards, this red wine is produced and bottled in Walla Walla Washington.

Medium in weight with crisp light ruby red colors, an impressive nose loaded with cherries, grassy perfumed fruits and smoked meats, opening as aromas expand into baked cherry pie with a slightly vegetal note.

On the palate a minerality previews vanilla and mild spices with silky tannins, nice integration and a good lasting finish.

Taste courtesy my friend Marc S.

10 WINES FOR THANKSGIVING

Montes Classic Series Chardonnay 2007
Curico Valley, Chile

Badger Mountain Reisling,
Washington state

Lenz Gewurztraminer 2005
Estate Bottled, Long Island

Primus Casablanca Valley 2005
Chile

Arnaldo-Caprai Sagrantino Di Montefalco 2003 DOCG
Italy

Cote De Loach Zinfandel 2006
California

Chateau Mas Neuf Costieres de Nimes Tradition Red 2006
France

Bigi Vipra Rosa 2007
Rosso dell’Umbria IGT, Italy

Lirac Domaine Du Joncier 2005
France

Halter Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Paso Robles Estate Bottled, California

Blind Tasting of Twelve Syrahs

At Snooth's tasting room I had the opportunity to sample 12 Syrahs selected by Greg Dal Piaz. They were all 100% Syrah varietal, so it still amazes me how much of a range there was in the flights. A few common threads were the high alcohol content (a 14.57% average), full body, dark fruits, black pepper and spices. (Please note all bottles were opened 2.5 hours before tasting). So here they are, a powerfully dirty dozen.

2006 Neyers Napa Valley California - Hudson Vineyards Syrah 14.1% - $40

On the nose a funky barnyard waft and later opened but showed a medicinal aroma, while up front on the palate dark sour cherries and mainly black pepper in the mid palate.


2004 Burgess Napa Valley Syrah 14.7% - $20

Perfumed aromas, lilac, and a playful candy twist, fresh-cut wood or bark peeled back, green peppers, spices and a bit of raw onions with a cola finish. Liked it.


2005 LaTour Vineyards Napa Valley California Syrah 14.8% - $26.50

On the nose mushrooms and turned soil, black cherries and tannic structure.


2006 Alesia Santa Lucia Highlands California Fairview Ranch Vineyard Syrah 14.25% - $60

On the nose getting vinegar, sulphur, cat pee, and meats, while on the palate dark fruits, coffee, chocolate and blackberry...with smooth integration of flavors somewhat redeeming the rough aromas.


2006 Snoqualme Columbia Valley Washington State Syrah 13.9% - $12

Muted aromas of dried herbs lead into a diluted texture and a palate of ash, wood, blueberries, dried fruits and a dusty glycerine.


2006 Luca Laborde Double Select Syrah Uco Valley Mendoza, Argentina 13.9% - $25

Simple bouquet of toasted red fruit and barnyard, balanced, chewy, white pepper, blueberries with great finish... very nice.


2006 Stolpman Santa Ynez Valley Estate Syrah 15.1% - $30

On the nose, herbal and violets with specks of meat, flavors of sweet stewed tomatoes, white pepper, alcohol, red fruits and candy. Good one.


2005 Firestone Santa Ynez Valley California Syrah 13.5% - $18

Nose of petrol, oak, butter with a subtle diluted leather, fizzles on the midpalate.


2004 Zaca Mesa Santa Ynez Valley California Estate Syrah 14.5% - $20

Strawberries, meat, herbs, burnt rubber, dust, wood, fairly balanced.


2006 Dry Stack Cellars (aka Grey Stack) Dry Stack Vineyard Bennett Valley California Marie's Block Syrah 15.5% - $40

Earthy mushroom, meat, barnyard, black pepper, blackberries, sharp ripe fruits and very high alcohol.


2006 Grey Stack - Dry Stack Vineyard - Bennett Valley California The Narcissist Syrah 15.8% $48

Muted aromas of raw meat, on the palate alcohol, stout tannins, oak, chalky mid-palate, and a sour cherry finish.


2006 Four Vines Santa Barbara County California los Alamos Vineyard - One Tree Hill Block Syrah 14.8% $36

Bigger and fruity with cherry cola on the nose and a palate of violets, spices... medicinal but in a natural way, very herbal finish... my favorite of the twelve.

Wine made in all 50 states

I understand all 50 states produce wines but I've only had samples from New York, California, Washington, Oregon and Idaho.

Anyone get close to 50?

Which one surprised you the most?

Map image source: GoogleMap