A Discussion on Italian Terroir with Adolfo Folonari and Cesare Casella

This week at the Italian Culinary Center in New York City I had the pleasure of meeting Adolfo Folonari, co-CEO of Ruffino, who put together a tasting of his wines, and Cesare Casella, currently of Salumeria Rosi, who created the pairing menu.

The Folonari family has been in the wine business since the late 1700's, and bought the Ruffino Vineyards almost 100 years ago, so you can say Adolfo has wine running through his veins. Over the past 50 years they acquired seven small estates, Gretole, Santedame, Montemasso (all 3 in Chianti Classico), Lodola Nuova Estates (in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano), Greppone Mazzi Estate (Brunello di Montalcino), Poggio Casciano Estate (Chianti Colli Fiorentini), and La Solatia Estate (Chianti Colli Senesi).

The first 4 pairings with various Salumi:

Ruffino Chianti Superiore DOCG 2008

From the Poggio Casciano Estate vineyards in Chianti, using choice grapes during the harvest, as per the Superiore and Chianti Classico production standards, and aged for seven months in stainless steel tanks and two additional months in bottle. 75% Sangiovese (Minimum required by DOCG), plus 25% other varieties like Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Superiore rules require yields 10% lower than Chianti Classico. $12.99

Deep ruby colors, aromas of cherries, blue fruits, hints of tree bark and chalk, flavors of red fruits and especially spice on the back end.

Paired nicely with Prosciutto Toscana Grigliato from San Gimignano, a Tuscan ham rubbed with rosemary, black pepper and garlic, then grilled.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

With grapes coming from the Santedame, Montemasso and Gretole Estates in the Chianti Classico area, and a blend of 80% Sangiovese with a 20% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, it is then aged in a combination of oak casks, stainless steel tanks, and concrete vats for two years, with a minimum of three months in bottle. $24.99

Ruby colors with aromas of blue fruits and bacon, ripe cherries on the palate followed by white pepper, spice and tobacco.

Coupled with Prosciutto di Parma, the hind thigh of a hog, rimmed with pure white fat.


Ruffino Santedame Riserva Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

From the Santedame Estate Vineyards near Castellina in the heart of Chianti Classico, this is a beautiful blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino and a 5% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo. Only the best hand selected grapes are used for this single vineyard riserva, fermented in stainless steel, aged in French oak for twelve months with another six months in bottle. $33

Sexy bouquet of violets with intense floral aromas, complex flavors of blackberries, cherry candy, red licorice, smooth tannins with black cherries and cocoa powder on the finish.

Paired with Parmacotta, the floral aromas present in the Riserva make a fine balance to the sweet, cooked ham's brininess.



Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004

Only the best hand picked grapes are selected during several passes to pick bunches at the perfect state of maturation. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for two weeks, further macerated on the skins for 15 days, then aged in oak casks for 24 months. After resting in stainless steel tanks for another six months, the wine was bottled and aged for eight months before release. $79

100% Sangiovese Grosso with flowing aromas of plums, cherries, and barnyard, weaving into animal flavors, expressed by a full body and rich texture, with spice notes, fine tannins, and long chocolate finish.

Paired with Cacciatorino, the snack originally used by Piemontese hunters, but now popular throughout Italy. It's dense texture marbled with pockets of fat nicely work with the bold Brunello's husky demeanor.

After the initial tasting, we moved on to the luncheon where there were four more wines to sample.


Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia IGT 2009

Straw yellow colors, floral notes, kiwi, pear, hints of pineapple


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2005

80% Sangiovese, with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot combination, aged for 36 months, 3 months stainless steel, 24 months in oak casks, 3 months in vats, and at least 6 months in bottle. Violets, plums, spices with herbal notes.

Ruffino Romitorio di Santedame Toscana IGT 2004

60% Colorino, 40% Merlot, this one being my favorite of the day. Aged at least 18 months in oak casks, floral notes, black currants, dried cherry, dates, very complex with sultry earthtones and spices. Finishes beautifully with strawberries and chocolate.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2001

A fine vintage for this with 85% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, aged for 37 months is a well balanced, nicely structured classic Sangiovese Tuscan with ripe tannins and long finish.

Luncheon Menu:

Salumi assortment
Beans and Tuna
Short Ribs with Mushroom Risotto
Vanilla Panna Cotta with Chocolate Hazelnut Tuile

7 Inexpensive but Good Wines

Here are 7 of my most recent favorite inexpensive but good wines.

J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
This Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, California is made from 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petite Sirah, 5% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot and 1% Malbec- quite an intense mix, but it works. Stainless steel fermentation, then 14-16 months in oak casks. Bright reddish purple in color with strong fruity fragrance of cherries cedar and blackberries, and cherry soda, chocolate and vanilla on the mouth. Enjoyed this with a cheeseburger at a new restaurant in Forest Hills by the glass, and it can be found retail at the $20 range. 13.8% alcohol.

Cantina Di Casteggio Oltrepo Pavese Barbera 2005 DOC
This medium weight ruby colored 100% Barbera is unoaked, so there's no wood influence, allowing a nose of pure mild red fruits, a palate of sour cherries, spice, white pepper, and a mix of fragrant herbs. After an hour of decanting the finish was smooth and fleeting, but after 4 hours the finish stretched out nicely. The mild tannins would hold up well to a pork or veal dish, or even barbecue. We are in the $12 range.


Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006
Blend is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 is a ruby red, dry, full-bodied wine from Tuscany with ripe red fruit and chocolate on the nose, and a fresh smooth palate with a good finish. 13% alcohol and $7.99.

Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2006 Chile
This Carmenere from Chile is aged for 8 months in small oak barrels, is a deep purple red, has mild floral aromas and complex fruit flavors including cherry, with spice and vanilla. This is an interesting pick... the flavor profile is unique (it's my first 100% Carmenere)... I haven't seen many around. Found this in the $10 range.

Chateau Grand Moulin 2005 France
This red wine from France is a blend of Syrah and Grenache grapes. Color is clear dark garnet red with cherries, ripe fruit and tar on the nose. Palate has black cherry and white pepper undertones and moderate tannin. It is paired well with warm gruyere gougeres. Not bad by the glass for $9.

Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT
This is a 100% Sangiovese red wine made from grapes from various locations in Tuscany, Italy. There's barnyard on the nose with black cherry and oak with cinnamon, and mild flavors of fruit and good balance. This is an inexpensive, but decent everyday wine, I believe it was $6.

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
This DOCG from Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy is made from 80% Prugnolo Gentile (a Sangiovese clone) and a 20% blend of Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo. 80% of the grapes are aged for two years in Slavonian oak and 20% in French oak. On the nose is cherry, oak, rose and vanilla and on the palate black cherries with moderate tannins and a smooth medium finish. In the $20 neighborhood, this is a good vintage to drink now but you can also cellar it for a few years.

1975 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve... From A Vertical Tasting of Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserves 1975-79

Greg Dal Piaz from Snooth organized this vertical tasting of Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon's ranging from 1975 to 1979 and ending with a 2003 Pietra Santa thrown in for good measure. Eight wine lovers (see photos) gathered at Cafe Loup on 13th Street in NYC to sample these wonderful old Cabs from the Maestro of California wines.

All the wines were double decanted to lose any sediments and were opened an hour and a half before we got our hands on them.

The first on the table was the 1975 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.

Right out of the gate it was intensely aromatic and heavy with Earth, Funk and Barnyard (remember them from the 70's?) and layered on top of that were red cherries, saddle and vanilla.

This one showed such complexity that on the palate there were just as many layers: white pepper, smoked bacon, green pepper skin and raisins. The finish was an interesting amalgam of all of the contributing factors that constructed this grand California classic.

See another review by Greg Dal Piaz

©2008 photo by Dave Trieger

A Taste of International Varietals at Italian Wine Merchants

Most of the wines I talk about in this blog don't go for more that $20, But last weekend I treated myself to a tasting at Italian Wine Merchants (Founded by Sergio Esposito, Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich) and sampled six wines from various regions in Italy. As a tasting room it really is a near perfect space, both functional and cozy. Naturally the wine that most impressed me was the Sassicaia, but some of the other wines from various regions of Italy were really diverse. And for $50 I got to sample 6 excellent wines, so in my book it's a great deal.

The orientation was given by IWM Sales Manager, Augusto Cardona who gave a brief history of IWM and it's philosophy. He then went thru the wines one by one extolling their virtues, and was really helpful with any questions we had. Next, we dove right in...

• Bruno Giacosa 2003 2003 Spumante Brut (Lombardia-Pinot Nero)

This 100% Pinot Nero is a sparkling wine with almost clear golden color, a bouquet of sour apples, yeast and fruit. The grapes are grown in a soil rich in limestone giving this Brut its singular character and dry, lively edge.


• Castel Sallegg 2004 Traminer Aromatico (Alto Adige-Traminer Aromatico)
This is a Gewurztraminer, Alto Adige's signature grape, which Augosto says, may have originated that region. The wine has a light golden color, aromas of melon, apples, peaches and roses accenting a palate of citrus, more specifically grapefruit.

• La Castellada 2002 Sauvignon (Friuli-Sauvignon Blanc)
To come...




• Rocche Dei Manzoni 2001 Pinonero Damino (Piemonte-Pinot Nero)

To come...




• Movia 2000 Veliko Rosso (Friuli-Cabernet Sauvignon. Merlot, Pinot Nero)


This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Nero is from the Friuli/Slovenian border and is stored in Slovenian oak casks for three to seven years. Appearance is berry red with an earthy leather aroma, medium body and notes on the palate of black cherry jam and hint of mushrooms.

• Tenuta San Guido 2004 Sassicaia (Toscana-Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc)

This is from the house that started it all... the Supertucan movement that is.

The regard for this wine is such that it was accorded a DOC status by the classification system that shunned its initial efforts--a first for an Italian wine. IWM

Deep ruby red colors this complex wine with an opacity that makes it look unfiltered, while the nose is intense (but not overpowering) with waves of luscious fruit and balanced tannins. Amazing.

Celebrating Long Island’s East End: A Vacation in a Glass at the Astor Wine Center

When Steve Bate drove to the North Fork of Long Island for the first time, he was surprised at the working farms and vineyards in operation there. Since then its rise in popularity is obvious as visitors now call before-hand to ask what other events are happening. Since 2004 Steve has been Long Island Wine Council’s Executive Director, playing a large part in bringing the number of visitors to 1.3 million per year.

Winterfest in March, April’s Barrel-tastings, May’s Run For The Rosé’s ($1 from each bottle sold goes to Cancer research), and September Barrel Auction are just a handful of the events happening there. The East End has 49 wine producers and many were on hand at The Astor Wine Center to pour some of their samples. Here are a few of my favorites:

Channing Daughters 2007 Sculpture Garden
88% Merlot from the Sculpture Garden vineyard (the oldest on the South Fork, planted in 1982) and 12% Blaufrankisch from Sylvanus vineyard, aged in French and Slovenian oak barrels for twenty-two months.
Aromas of blue fruit, rosewater, dried flowers, and hints of smoke, with flavors of violets, cherries, currants and blueberries.

Jamesport Vineyards 2005 Melange de Trois
Bordeaux blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc. Ocean breeze aromas open to mild, mineral earthtones, and smoked meats and tobacco with a delicious chewy palate, white pepper, sour cherry and a spicy cinnamon finish… soft, silky, smooth.

Wölffer Estates 2006 Fatalis Fatum
42% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc, 27.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1.5% Barbera, and aged 22 months in oak. Fragrant aromas of smoky bacon, red licorice, and a palate of blueberry, powdered violet candies, and sour cherries. Nicely integrated and finishes with very mild spice sprinkled over ripe cherries.

Castello di Borghese 2005 Merlot
Aged in French oak barrels for 13 months. Nose of black pepper spices, chalk, blue fruits, violets, and a lively, earthy palate.

Clovis Point 2007 Archaeology
56% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot, 6% Syrah, whew! Aromas of roses, glycerine, steel, blueberry, nicely balanced for its youth, but will be a keeper. Flavors of blue fruits, cola, crushed stones and plums.

(I know I’m partial to reds, so to be fair I also tried a Rosé)
Wölffer Estates 2008 Grandioso Rosé
Bouquet of peaches, honeysuckle, flavors of pears, kiwi, mineral, grapefruit rind, reminding me that Spring is Here!

Duck Walk Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, 2006 Beringer Knight's Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Tomaiolo Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 DOCG, Averna

Today Rita and I visited our good friends Jody and Rich for a dinner paired with 3 wines. We started with the 2006 Duck Walk Cabernet from Long Island which is a dark garnet/plum color with a jammy nose of plums, cherries and chocolate. The palate showed a mild but not overpowering bitterness, but also reminds me a bit of a Pinot Noir, sort of leathery or tarlike. After about an hour the wine softened and revealed a good balance between fruit and tannins along with a nice smooth black cherry finish.


Then, Richie served dinner, a delicious gemelli pasta with a light tomato sauce with garlic, onions, carrots, bacon and green peas served on a dollop of fresh ricotta cheese. We paired it with 2006 Beringer Knight's Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, a ruby color with aromas of raisins and black fruits and a palate of chocolate, coffee and black cherry. Slightly tannic but also well balanced.

We continued with Tomaiolo Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 DOCG, purple ruby colored, with medium to full body, and a smooth bouquet of cherry, oak, figs, and currants.

After dinner we had a small glass of Averna, a great digestiv from Sicily made from the essence of many herbs.

Vertical Tasting of 3 Chateau Rauzan-Segla in New Chateau Baccarat Glasses

Baccarat's presentation of their beautifully designed crystal wine glasses was matched only by the vertical tasting of 3 vintages of Chateau Rauzan-Segla Gran Cru Classe-Margaux.

The new design of the Chateau Baccarat glass collection successfully unleashes the full potential of the wines. The new shape works this way, the wide base prevents alcohols from overpowering the aromatics of the wine, the closed angle allows the the aromas to fill the glass when swirling, and the "vertical chimney" redirects and consolidates the aromas.

The first test was a comparison between the Baccarat glass and a common Bordeaux wine glass, and I have to admit the wines' attributes were more apparent from the former.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2006 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, aged in 50% French oak barrels for 18 months.
Clean colors of warm ruby, aromas of violets, raspberry, hints of leather, tobacco and candied fruit and caramel countered by flavors of spice with a vegetal edge, slightly tight tannins, white pepper with a warm mouth feel.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2001 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
63.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33.5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, aged in 50% French oak barrels for 18 months.
Classic Bordeaux style, darker ruby colors, ripe cherries and floral aromas accented by violets and licorice, on the palate there's a meaty and spicy tang combining with chalk, pepper and earth, echoes of ripe cherries and raspberry followed by a smart balance and long finish.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2000 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, aged in 60% new oak barrels for 18 months.
Deep blackberry ruby colors, beautiful aromas colored by pastel and dried flowers (violet), chocolate and vanilla with flavors of black fruits, cassis, glycerine and spice. Beautifully balanced, smooth and wonderful finish.

Avalon California Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Even though this red wine from California is labeled Cabernet Sauvignon, upon further research I found that it is in fact a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Syrah, 4% Merlot and 1% Tempranillo. Aged for 8 months in French and American oak barrels, it has smoke and cedar aromas with blueberry, plum, cherries and a hint of chocolate. On the finish there is a spice and vanilla on the palate. This is a decent every day Cab and can be found in the $8 range. 13.5% alcohol.

Leese-Fitch Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 California at 1st Wine Society of Queens Meet-up

The first meetup of The Wine Society of Queens was held this weekend at The Wine Room of Forest Hills, where we sampled over a dozen new wines from California, France, Argentina, Italy, Spain and even Georgia (Russia). One of my favorites was the Leese-Fitch Cab and here are some tasting notes:

I know the label says Cabernet Sauvignon, in reality what you get is an amazing blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, 5% Syrah from River Junction, 5% Tempranillo from Moneterey, with Lodi contributing the 2% Alicante Bouchet, and 2% Petite Sirah.

Very attractive aromas of cassis infused with intense cherry liquore, sarsaparilla and black currants, flavors are floral influenced and herbal on the back palate. At the tail end hints of tea leaves, bits of cedar, milk chocolate and roasted marshmallow finish off nicely. This is a great bargain at $15.

J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

This Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, California is made from 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petite Sirah, 5% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot and 1% Malbec-- quite an intense mix, but it works. Stainless steel fermentation, then 14-16 months in oak casks. Bright reddish purple in color with strong fruity fragrance of cherries cedar and blackberries, and cherry soda, chocolate and vanilla on the mouth. Enjoyed this with a cheeseburger at a new restaurant in Forest Hills called Bonfire Grill, at $9.50 a glass. 13.8% alcohol.

Half Dozen Shiraz from OZ

talian wines paved the way for my wine education, but last night my friend Eric Guido provided a detour for me: A blind tasting of six Australian wines from the famed Barossa Valley. All six were reds and either 100% Shiraz or a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. The bottles ranged in price from about $20 to $100, the labels were covered with aluminum foil and the six were separated into two flights of three. Three wines were from the Yalumba Vineyard and three were picked from Erics's cellar.

Flight 1

Penfolds RWT 2003
Creamy cherry aromas with a slight indication of citrus rinds and roasted meats, on the palate flashes of raisins and ripe cherries, the alcohol is evident at first but after a few hours starts to open nicely.

Yalumba The Scribbler 2008
65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Shiraz showing aromas of oak, raw wood and ripe cherries while on the palate hints of violets, black pepper and a spicy intensity.

Yalumba Signature 2004
54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46% Shiraz, acute floral aromas coalesce in a bouquet of rich violets and red licorice while contrasting earth and mushrooms and even a sign of meat and oak. Flavors of candy apple, noticeably aged and fresh all at once, well balanced, long smooth finish, stylish and elegant. This wine was my overall favorite by far, and the majority of tasters agreed.

Flight 2

Yalumba Patchwork Shiraz 2008
Muted smoky aromas, eastern spices, sour cherries, cocoa, and forest floor, raspberry, blueberry and fresh finish.

Fetish/The Watcher 2006
My pick from the second flight, this shows a barnyard funk, musk, animal, vegetal, cherries, floral nuances, oak, ripe cherries and plum.

Two Hands Bella's Garden Shiraz 2008
Made from a blend of six different Shiraz wines, each sourced from vineyards located in subappellations of South Australia, minimal fining and no filtration. Aromas of oak, a balsamic edge, very fruit forward, fresh full flavors, licorice, dark chocolate, rich blackberries and ripe cherries. This week's #2 pick at Wine Spectator (out of a field of 100 wines).



I don't feel especially guilty about drinking non-Italian wines, after all we still paired the wines with (Grandma) Pizza and had Panettone topped with Shiraz Cream Fresh for dessert.



For another take on the wines we tasted see Eric's comments at The V.I.P Table.

Black Coyote 2004 Stag's Leap Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon California

Today after work a few of us got together and sampled a really powerful bottle of wine from California. Powerful because it is 15.1% alcohol, but also because it's intensity is almost visible. Called Black Coyote Bates Creek Vineyard 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon... it's 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot and barreled for 19 months in new and used French oak. The color is a unique deep purple with the opacity of ink. On the nose is an intense wave of fruits, dark berries, cherries, even a little hint of apple, and wet hay. On the palate there was a full fruit bomb, high alcohol flavor, chocolate and wood... and a nice long velvety finish. I believe they're already sold out of the 2004, so if you spot a bottle anywhere (it's in the $30-40 range and well worth it), grab it and hold it for a few years. Damn good bottle of wine, Thanks Jordan!

The Long Island Wine Blind Challenge

This past week the Long Island Wine Council sponsored a seminar and blind tasting of its wines to compare them with others from international regions. The day started with a series of speeches about some of the history of Long Island wines, how the wines were picked for the blind tasting, followed by Q&A.

The blind tasting consisted of 20 wines, 10 from Long Island vs. 10 non Long Island. The breakdown was 5 flights of 4 each of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay (unoaked), Chardonnay (oaked), Merlot and Cabernet Franc. I just read another blogger's post about how he/she identified the Long Island wines successfully. I didn't try to idenify the wines but instead picked my favorite from each flight and 1 out of 5 were from Long Island. So, here we go.

Flight 1 Sauvignon Blanc

Osprey’s Dominion Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (LI)
Reverdy “Hippolyte” Sancerre 2007 (FR)
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (NZ)*
Palmer Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (LI)

*My blind favorite

Flight 2 Unoaked Chardonnay

Daniel Dampt Chablis 2007 (FR)
Macari Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 (LI)
Channing Daughters “Scuttlehole” Chardonnay 2008 (LI)**
Domaine Renaud Pouilly-Fuisse 2007 (FR)

**My blind favorite

Flight 3 Oaked Chardonnay

Flowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2007 (CA)***
Pelligrini Estate Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 (LI)
Langoureau Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “La Grerenne” 2007 (FR)
Castello Di Borghese Chardonnay 2006 (LI)

***My blind favorite

Flight 4 Merlot

Grapes of Roth Merlot 2005 (LI)
Clos L’Oratoire St. Emilion 2005 (FR)
Raphael Merlot 2005 (LI)
Craggy Range Gimblett Gravel 2004 (NZ) ****

****My blind favorite

Flight 5 Cabernet Franc

Shinn Estates Cabernet Franc 2007 (LI)
Catherine Et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Franc DE Pied 2007 (FR)
Dare By Viader Cabernet Franc 2005 (CA) *****
Bedell Cabernet Franc 2005 (LI)

*****My blind favorite

Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Paso Robles

This Cabernet is super soft and very fruit forward with aromas of ripe red fruits, blackberry and forest floor, paired with a palate of berry flavors, chocolate, bing cherry, and a touch of oak. Rounding out with silky tannins, nice texture, and a ripe finish with good length, this Cab is especially food friendly. An unexpectedly good red California wine for $13 a bottle (An on line search may get you closer to $11, but you'll have to do your homework).

For over three decades, Liberty School has been among the best values in California wine. In the early 1980’s, Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles caught the attention of renowned Napa Valley vintner Chuck Wagner of Caymus Vineyards. Because of the incredible quality and value of their Paso Robles Cab, Wagner approached Hope Farms in search of Cabernet for his second label wine, Liberty School. The Hope family helped build the brand’s solid reputation over the years and in 1996, the Hopes took over the label. Austin Hope, who started working under Chuck Wagner, in the early 1990s, heads the winemaking team and their goal has always been the same; to produce delicious, fruit-driven, varietally correct wines at reasonable prices. That’s what this Liberty School 2008 Cab is all about. It offers vibrant cassis and berry fruit with supple tannins and just touch of oak.

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

This was my favorite from the first flight at the Snooth Cabernet tasting last week. Initially, beautiful dark ripe blackberry aromas assault together with wafts of berries, and hints of vanilla, spices and cassis.

Structured tannins and a chewy, brambly mouth feel, give way to more black fruits expressed to the end with a long enjoyably candied finish. 15% alcohol and $16.99

Winery notes:

Varietal Composition:
80% Cabernet Sauvignon
12% Merlot
3% Cabernet Franc
3% Malbec
1% Petit Verdot
1% Syrah

Appellation:
Napa Valley

Grape Sourcing:
42% from the Oakville AVA, with the majority of that (35%) from Robert Mondavi Winery’s To Kalon Vineyard, 25% from Stags Leap District AVA (12% from our Wappo Hill Vineyard), the remaining third from other select Napa Valley vineyards

Winemaking Notes:
• Harvested in cool morning hours
• Fermented in a combination of stainless steel and oak tanks
• 25 days of maceration (skin contact) to soften tannins
• Barrel-to-barrel racking to develop flavors
• 14 months of aging in French oak château barrels (20% new oak)

Instituto Grandi Marchi Tasting

On October 25th at The New York Public Library The Instituto Grandi Marchi presented their “Premium Brands”. The Institute, composed of 17 of Italy’s most renowned wine producers (Biondi Santi Spa, Michele Chiarlo, Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari, Pio Cesare, Tenuta San Guido, Cà del Bosco, Umani Ronchi, Carpenè Malvolti, Lungarotti, Masi, Mastroberardino, Alois Lageder, Rivera, Jermann, Donnafugata, Marchesi Antinori, Tasca D’Almerita) hosted a full day of wine tasting in collaboration with the Masters of Wine, the world’s most elite wine society. The producers were represented by Augusto Boffa from Pio Cesare, Raffaelle Boscaini from Masi, Piero Antinori from Antinori, Giovanni Folonari from Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari, Sebastiano de Corato from Rivera, Jose Rallo from Donnafugata, Giuseppi Tasca from Tasca d'Almerita. Hosting the panel was Charles Curtis MW, Head of North American Wine Sales Christie's, New York, and representing the new media was Gregory Dal Piaz from Snooth.


Each producer made a pitch describing their vineyards history, combining tradition with new technologies, diverse high quality Italian wines and new marketing direction.

The current President Piero Antinori pointed out that Italians in general do not like "groups", but this one is composed of competitors who are also friends... friends with a common bond of terroir, history, tradition, art, and vineyards hundreds of years old. He said, "Each bottle should share all these qualities with the drinker".

Here are a few of my tasting notes:

Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 2006
70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, 2 years in oak, 4 months in bottle, deep violet colors, delicious cherry pie aromas, dark waves of chocolate and coffee.

Tenuta Tignanello 2007 IGT
80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in new oak barriques after fermentation until December, blended and aged in barriques for a year, each barrique was individually tasted before bottle aging for another year. Black cherries pervade the palate with ripe fruits, concentrated aromas, blackberries, toast and chocolate... complex and sexy.

Biondi-Santi Tenuta Greppo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003
100% Sangiovese Grosso, 3 years in oak barrels, at least 4 months in bottle, aromas of sweet violets and roses, rosewater, sour cherries, structured tannins, great long finish.

Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido 2007 DOC
855 Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, aged in French oak barrels for 2 years and an additional 6 months in bottle, deep ruby colors, a marked intensity, beautifully balanced with fragrant violet aromas and persistent blue fruits, full bodied flavors with balanced tannins.

Donnafugata Ben Rye Passito di Pantelleria DOC Sicilia
Made from Zibibbo (Moscato d'Alessandria) grapes, aged in stainless steel tanks for 4 months then in bottle for 6 months, amber yellow colors, summer fruits, sweet dried figs, and a long honey finish.

Rivera Il Falcone Castel Del Monte Riserva 2005 DOC
70% Nero di Troia, 30% Montepulciano, aged 12-14 months in oak, 1 year in bottle, ruby red colors, chocolate, ripe cherries, and forest floor, supple and textured

Tasca d'Almerita Rosso Del Conte 2005 Sicilia
A blend of mostly Nero d'Avola and other red grapes from the estate, 18 months aged in barrel, six in bottle, deep purple colors, licorice, spice, while fruit comes through on the impressive finish.

Halter Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Paso Robles Estate Bottled

©2008 photo by Dave Trieger
This is another one of my favorites from the tasting I attended this past weekend at The Restaurant at Sun & Surf Beach Club in Atlantic Beach, N.Y.

This Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, California has a deep violet color with cherries, plums and blackberries on the nose, with a dark chocolate and oaky undertone. On the palate is a mature fruitiness and a rounded vanilla mouthfeel really nicely balanced in a fine example of what a Cabernet is all about. This one is about $28

The Federalist Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon 2014

The Federalist expresses this revolutionary blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petite Syrah and 1% Sangiovese. Different blocks were fermented separately to preserve the character of each. Aged for 15 months in new oak.

Very dark purple in the glass, with good weight; on the nose a playful cherry creamsicle set against an earthy leather, after breathing a while opens to ripe blackberry and spices.

On the palate... OMG, blueberry pie a la mode! (with vanilla ice cream), black fruits really noticeable at back of tongue along with sour cherry. Chewy texture, good ripe fruit with excellent tannin structure. SRP $17.76.

Casa Lapostolle Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Chile

From Chile's Rapel Valley, comes this blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Syrah, 5% Carmenere, and 2% Cabernet Franc, 68% of which was aged for 7 months in French oak barrels, while 32% was aged in stainless steel tanks, before bottle aging.

Aromas of red berries, spices, licorice, dried figs and cassis. Flavors: sour cherries, white pepper, structured with good long finish. Purchased on line for $13 from WineExpress.

2008 Winner of Wine Enthusiast's New World Winery .

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1979

This opulent, deep opaque purple Cabernet has a softness that I savor so much. And there were lots of sensory memories from my past that I had to call upon in free association...

candy cane wrapper plastic toys mineral rubber bands dried herbs catsup vegetal green pepper blackberry chocolate

Greg Dal Piaz from Snooth organized this vertical tasting of Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon's ranging from 1975 to 1979 and ending with a 2003 Pietra Santa thrown in for good measure. We gathered at Cafe Loup on 13th Street in NYC to sample these wonderful old Cabs from the Maestro of California wines.

All the wines were double decanted to lose any sediments and were opened an hour and a half before we got our hands on them.

©2008 photo by Dave Trieger