Filippo Gallino Barbera d’Alba DOC 2007

From the Canale area of Piedmont and made from 100% Barbera, this delicious red wine with deep ruby colors and juicy fragrances is aptly described below in the vintner notes, "... along with the fresh bouquet of black and red fruit with undertones of violet, herbs and tar. It is very fragrant and full-bodied on the palate. "
I couldn't agree more. The only thing I can add to this is the wonderfully long, silky finish. Can't pass this one up!

Vintner notes:

The Gallino family has been growing grapes and making wine in the Roero district for many generations. Filippo Gallino was the first to produce and bottle his own wine for the market, and he remains active in the winery operation still. His son Gianni, now the vineyard manager and winemaker, has successfully brought this small family operation to the highest level of the Piemontese wine scene.

The Barbera d’Alba immediately reveals its intense rub-red color in the glass, along with the fresh bouquet of black and red fruit with undertones of violet, herbs and tar. It is very fragrant and full-bodied on the palate.

“This is a superb wine, perhaps a little rustic, but you will be won over by its great personality” Vini d’Italia 2000.

Best accompanied with stuffed pastas, meat sauces and meat entrees.

APPELLATION: Barbera d’Alba D.O.C.
VARIETALS: 100 % Barbera
VINEYARD: Estate covers 20 hectares. Soil is clay-like with strands of sand. Cultivation system is Guyot; 7-8 fruit buds per plant.
HARVEST: October
VINIFICATION: Winter pruning and harvesting still done entirely by hand, while other maintenance operations are now mechanical.
PRODUCTION: 917 cases

Italy's Icons and Rising New Stars

On a cold and blustery January Saturday, Italian Wine Merchants hosted a tasting series called Italy’s Icons and Rising Stars, which I attended with both old and new friends. It began as a low-key and reserved afternoon that quickly turned boisterous—complete with exploding glasses, spurting wine and contagious laughter.

Bruno Giacosa Spumante Brut 2004 DOC
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Region: Lombardia

Bruno Giacosa, known more for his Barolo and Barbaresco in the Piedmont region makes this Spumante Brut in the neighboring Lombardy region. Made from 100% Pinot Noir in the traditional Champagne style, fermented in stainless steel followed by secondary fermentation in bottle and hand riddling, the wine ages on the lees for a period of 24 to 30 months prior to release.

Loaded with ripe fruits, showing a dry minerality, citrus notes, a hint of fresh bread and heady floral aromas.

Giuseppe Quintarelli Bianco Secco Ca' del Merlo 2007 IGT
Varietal: Garganega Blend
Region: Veneto

Here we see Quintarelli, a master of wine known for his Valpolicella, Recioto and Amarone, delving into a Bianco Secco, an interesting blend of Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Saorin (the last of which, meaning "flavor" in Veronese dialect, and believed to be a clone of the Tocai grape).

Crisp and full flavors abundant with fresh aromatics of green apple, lemon rind, lychee, honey and minerals, and finishing long and smooth.

Bodega Chacra Pinot Noir Rio Negro Barda 2007
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Region: Patagonia, Argentina

Piero Incisa della Rocchetta hails from one of the great Italian wine families -- the Rocchetta family is responsible for the planting of Sassacaia, and with the release of their first vintage in 1968, was able to convince the wine world of the high quality of Italian wines. In 2004, Piero purchased a vineyard in Patagonia Argentina which is now Bodega Chacra in order to produce Pinot Noir.

Hand destemmed, macerated in cement tanks, then in oak barrels for 11 months, this is a fruit forward, dense and well structured Pinot with aromas of tar, oak and smoke, textured with earthy flavors and a mineral character.



Punica Montessu 2007
Varietal: Carignan Blend
Region: Sardegna

From Giacomo Tachis of Sassicaia fame comes this Super-Sardegnian blend of 60% Carignano, with 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. Fermented in cement vats, aged in French oak barriques for 18 months and finally 12 months in bottle.

This was one of my favorites of the tasting and seems to me like a great value at $32 per bottle. A nose of violets, herbs and white pepper, and a ripe profile of plums, blueberries and even a little peach.



Talenti Rosso di Montalcino 2007
Varietal: Sangiovese
Region: Toscana

Made from grapes harvested from younger Brunello vines, this wine matures in oak barriques for two years and in bottle for one. Aromas of red ripe cherries and animal, with flavors bringing to mind Port wine, plums and cherries.



Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004
Varietal: Sangiovese Grosso
Region: Toscana

Aged in French oak barrels for 3 years before aging in bottle for 12 months. Tar, smoke, oak, chalk, cola, leather and plums, all come together to form a fine classic Brunello.



The good company: David, Sarena, Alicia, Kathy, Robin & Allen.

(Stay tuned... Two more wines to come from this tasting, and more pix.)

Bartolo Mascarello Barbera d'Alba 2007 DOC
Varietal: Barbera d'Alba
Region: Piemonte

Deep ruby colors with complex aromas and palate of ripe cherries, chocolate, violet candies, herbs, coffee, smoked meats.



A&GN Fantino Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi' Nebbiolo Piemonte 1995
Varietal: Nebbiolo
Region: Piemonte

Aged 12 months in stainless steel followed by 12 moths in bottle, ripe black cherries, with a spicy edge and smooth texture.

Damilano Barbera d’Alba, 2007

This red wine is produced in the Piedmont region of Italy, made from fruit grown in Diano d’'Alba and Monforte, fermented in stainless steel and stored in oak barrels for 1 month prior to bottling.

Noticed at first is a slight fizziness (“fizzante”), with ruby red coloring and aromatics of raspberry, followed by enticing spices and a small pinch of oak. Medium body opens to a supple and expessively bright Barbera that balances with layers of cherries and dark summer fruits, evolving into an elegant long finish.

Paired well with appetizer of tagliolini pasta in porcini mushroom sauce wrapped with smoked prosciutto, and grilled filet of salmon served with sautéed spinach in a light mustard sauce at Il Poeta.

Due Risotti Alla Casa Di Eric

My friend Eric Guido has done it again. He's obsessed with Risotto, and I'm so glad. Almost every time he has a new Risotto experiment he calls me to test his new recipes. It's a tough job, but hey... somebody's got to do it. But first... to the wines...

Azienda Agricola Moroder Rosso Conero 2002
Didn't take notes on this but do remember deep balsamic notes with waves of super ripe strawberries, unfiltered with lots of sediment, but a very interesting take on a Montepulciano.

Torrette Les Cretes Valle d'Aoste DOC 2006
Aromas of vanilla and caramel, blending with earth tones and a palate of blue fruits and berries... paired with red, orange, and yellow peppers, beets and radicchio with an unbelievable dipping sauce called Bagna Cauda (ban-ya cow-dah) olive oil warmed slowly for 2 hours with anchovies and garlic, this was amazing.

Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2007
Black cherries, glycerine, plums and blueberry with a slight hint of violets.



Vietti Barbera d'Alba Scarrone 2005 DOC
100% Barbera, from small single vineyard and 60 year old vines, here is a delicious nose of violets, chocolate with cherry pie, vanilla and cinnamon, carrying a nice acidity, and a long smooth finish.



Now to the two delicious Risottos... one was a simple risotto made mainly with Barolo, the other was made with Barolo, but with onions, garlic, herbs, carrots and fresh grapes (I believe that's it... I will try to get more info from Eric and post it asap).



Vina Valoria Rioja 1973
The only non-Italian in the group, this old Tempranillo from the Rioja region of Spain shows ruby colors, aromas of intense barnyard/animal, black cherries, then baked cherries, following by super ripe fruits and cherry candy, long and sexy finish.



Rocca Sveva Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 DOC
Deep ruby with warmer colors around the edge of the glass, along with cherry pie aromas, layered with flavors of rich chocolate, dried fruits, bing cherries, and dark berries. On the palate has a nice full-bodied structure, with notes of hazelnut, a beautiful balance and lasting finish.



Paolo Bea Sanvalentino IGT 2006
From Umbria and made from a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 15% Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Paolo Bea is one of Italy's top producers. Aromas of roses and dry cassis with dark cherries, oak, flowers and spices, closing with a silky smooth finish.



For dessert Eric used a huge wooden cutting board loaded with cheeses like Morbier, Taleggio and Pecorino with black pepper, Prosciutto, Italian Salami and red grapes. Much thanks to Eric for a fun and delicious evening. BTW, check out his site called The V.I.P Table, great talk about food, cooking and wines.

Oh, and I almost forgot the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese with a dollop of 40 year old Balsamic vinegar.

Ciao!

NEW WINES FROM ITALY

Not long ago Gary Grunner--a wine aficionado with a special interest in Italian wines—invited me over to his house for a tasting. He had just returned from the Newport Wine Festival and wanted to share some of his newest gems with a few other writers and friends. As usual, Gary prepared a generous plate of cheese, bread, olives and other tempting noshes to complement the flavors of his wines—always a surefire way to keep me interested.

The conversation that afternoon ranged from where Italy's wine business was heading to what Italian producers needed to do in the US market to keep ahead of the rest of the world. Gary has been in the wine business and selling Italian wines since the early 1980s, and has witnessed first hand the intense growth of the industry as well as the increased competition. But in spite of the obstacles he believes there is more opportunity than ever for new, great wines.

With that in mind, I was secretly thinking that he could be setting himself up for a fall if the wines didn't deliver. But he went down to his cellar and returned with 5 bottles, lined them up on a long wooden table, and simply smiled.

Here are my reviews:

Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2003 DOCG (Fattoria dei Barbi)

Made from 100% Sangiovese grapes, this Brunello has a really interesting mix of aroma vs. palate. At first the nose reveals roasted meats, toast and ripe concentrated stewed prunes. Then you taste the intense ripe cherries, plums and spices and then a bit later chocolate, more spices and black pepper.

Fattoria Dei Barbi Morellino Di Scansano 2005 DOC

The Colombini family has owned property in Brunello di Montalcino since 1352, and they established Fattoria dei Barbi there in 1790.

Medium weight and bright ruby colors decorate this Morellino Di Scansano from Tuscany's Montalcino area. The first aromas are apparent immediately in a verdant dense forest, mushrooms and barnyard, then on the palate comes the sour cherry. Slightly tannic, but opening nicely within a hour or so with a finish of raisins and cola.

Fattoria dei Barbi Toscana Brusco dei Barbi 2006 IGT

Fattoria dei Barbi uses a patented technique of fermentation developed by Giovanni Colombini to make this Sangiovese Tuscan red wine. The process involves the extensive soaking of the grapes with their pomace which results in an intensity of flavors, softness, color, and complexity.

The initial fermentation lasts 10 days, transforming the sugars to alcohol. Then the stainless steel vats are sealed, the temperature dropped and the wine left in contact with the skins, continuing to ferment slowly. After three months the skins are then removed and the wine remains in the stainless steel vats until bottling.

The color of this wine is a ruby red with aromas of raspberries and spices while on the palate are earthy autumnal tones of underbrush. There is a smoothness in the tannins and a good balance overall with a finish that's full circle back to red berries.

Galarej Barbera D'Alba

Made from 100% Barbera grapes, this red wine is deep ruby-red with aromas of raspberry, flowers and vanilla, and flavors of violets, cedar and pepper spices and a medium-body.

Excellent with grilled meat, steaks, burgers, pizza, red sauce pasta dishes.

Galarej Barolo 2004 DOCG

This Barolo is made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes with colors of deep garnet and a nose of cherries, raspberries, herbs and spice. There's a full, rich, ripe palate of dark berries and leather, along with a warm, smooth finish that reverberates an earthiness. 13.5% alcohol content.


What I have come to appreciate about all the wines Gary represents is his preference for wines that generally over-deliver in quality as compared to the market price. That afternoon he particularly enjoyed discussing wines such as Fattoria dei Barbi, and he beamed with pride as he inducted his new brand Galarej into his portfolio.

Gary also talked about his newest endeavor with importer, Pietro Cavallo called 'Wine Project', as well as 'Grapes on the Go' his new consulting company that offers expert advice on wine, as well as restaurant and fine wine shop ventures.

It's clear that his favorite wines are those that not only best represent their grape variety and region, but also reveal a sense of passion that can only come from family-owned wineries with a joyous commitment to the wine business.

Dante Rivetti Mara Barbera d'Alba 2007 DOC Piedmont

From Bricco di Neive in Piemonte, this Barbera is sourced from a single vineyard. Many of the best regional producers like Gaja and Bruno Giacosa often source from this very same hillside.

It's medium-body belies it's fleshy and sexy textures. Aromas of red cherries and plums paired with multi-layered flavors of dried herbs, chocolate. Following the curves into a resinous, brambly, blackberry & raspberry jam, white pepper on the back end and showing soft tannins with very bright acidity.

Bought this bottle for $18 at Maslow 6.

Oddero Barbera d'Alba DOC 2007

Oderro, a big producer of Barolos in La Morra, Piemonte, Italy, shows floral aromas contrasting savory smoked bacon and delicious violet accents on the palate, blue fruits, cherry vanilla and a long finish.

Paired well with appetizer of fresh tomatoes with basilico and Burrata at Zampa Winebar & Kitchen at 306 West 13th street in West Village.

Vinification
Selection of grapes in the vineyard, fermentation and maceration for about 15 days in stainless-steel containers, followed by malolactic fermentation in November.

Maturing
40% aged in 50-hectoliter French oak barrels, 60% in small 225-liter barrels, for 18 months.

Dinner & Tasting with Eric & Deborah

We were invited to dinner this weekend by my friends Eric & Deborah along with their two beautiful girls, Violet and Dahlia, while Eric put on his chef's hat to make a simple, but delicious made-from-scratch penne alla vodka. Throughout the evening we sampled a broad spectrum of 5 wonderful wines, 1 Italian white, 3 Italian reds and 1 California Cab. Rita and I enjoyed the evening and the company too much to take extensive tasting notes, but I did text myself a few lines. Well, here they are.

Trentino Traminer Aromatico Casato Montfort 2004
Varietal: Gewürztraminer
Region: Trentino
Aged 5 months in steel vats and 3 months in bottle. Good body, with intense aromas of lychee, pineapple, apple, incredibly balanced and smooth, the nose and palate interact very well.

Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano 2007 DOC
Varietal: Montepulciano
Stewed prunes, raisins, ripe cherries, granny smith apples, and spices with a brisk acidity.

Andrea Oberto Barbera d'Alba 2008 DOC
Cherry pie, red berries, blackberries, tobacco, polished.

Feudo di San Nicola Negroamaro 2004 IGT Puglia
Smoky candy, ripe cherries, blueberries, strawberries, and spicy on the finish.



Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
70% form Napa, 30% from Sonoma with a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Violets, lavendar, cassis, blueberries, chewy, blue fruits, oak, balanced, nice acidity, structured tannins. This wine is an excellent fruit forward California Cabernet.