Wines from Spain: a really, really, really short history

In the mid 19th century, Spain's wine grapes were picked unripe, and sometimes red and white grapes were mixed to ferment together. The resulting wines were tart, or "green." To soften them, the prevailing technological innovation, aging in oak barrels, was used. Since that time, the evolution of Spanish wines has grown even more focused upon the aging process.

While the French philosophy for winemaking may be reduced to "terroir" (the special characteristics that geography bestows upon particular varieties), the opposing attitude embraced by Spain has been that of aging as long as it takes to create a smooth wine that is ready to drink.

Crianza - applies to red wines aged for a minimum of 24 months, of which 6 months are spent in oak.

Reserva - red wines that are aged for a minimum of 36 months, to include at least 12 months in oak and the rest in the bottle.

Gran Reserva - red wines aged for a minimum of 60 months, to include at least 18 months in oak.

Since the European Union wines from Spain are classified into two major groups: Quality Wines Produced in Specified Regions (QWPSR) and Table Wine (TW).

Top level wines are QWPSR:

Estate Wines (Vinos de Pago) DO Pago designates the estate is a producer of fine wines

Qualified Denomination of Origin Wines - QDO (Vinos de Denominación de Origen Calificada - DOCa)

Denomination of Origin Wines - DO (Vinos de Denominación de Origen - DO)

Quality Wines with a Geographical Indication - VCIG (Vinos de Calidad con Indicación Geográfica) After 5 years on VCIG one may apply for DO status.

The next lowest level of wines are classified as Table Wines:

Country Wines - CW (Vinos de la Tierra - VT)

Table Wines - VDM (Vino de Mesa)

Spains wine regions:
Green Spain
Duero River Valley
Ebro River Valley
The Meseta
The Mediterranean Coast
Andalucia
The Islands

Faustino VII Rioja 2005 with whole wheat pasta

This lively red from Rioja, Spain, 50% Tempranillo and 50% Garnacha, is a light red color with intensely fruity aromas and vanilla, and velvety cherry flavors and smooth slightly spicy finish. Again, this wine is very fruit forward but so smooth and light, an excellent food wine. I paired it with whole wheat pasta, steamed broccoli, prosciutto and (toasted) pignoli nuts with grated locatelli cheese.

©2008 photo by Dave Trieger

Winemaker notes:
In 1861 Eleuterio Martinez Arzok set out on a journey, selling his Rioja wines direct from the barrel, working from the back of a horse-drawn cart. Thus began Bodegas Faustino, today Spain’s largest producer of Reserva and Gran Reserva Rioja wines. In the late 1950s, Eleuterio’s equally adventurous descendant, Faustino Martinez, launched the Faustino label. Source of over 25% of all Reserva and Gran Reserva Riojas sold abroad, Faustino is a proud custodian of the Rioja’s international reputation for world-class wines. A phenomenal nine million bottles of Reserva and Gran Reserva wines are stored in Faustino’s magnificent cellars.

Production Area
Grapes are harvested exclusively from Faustino estate vineyards in Spain’s Rioja region.

Vinification
It is aged 10 months in oak casks and in bottle for 6 months prior to its release.

Alcohol
12.5

Condesa De Leganza Crianza 2004 Spain

From La Mancha region of Spain, Tempranillo is a beautiful grape with definite style, and this one displays deep purple/ruby tones and aromas of dark berries, spices and a hint of powdered sugar. The round flavors are revealed clearly with a textured suppleness and lively almost chewy character, and finish with elegance and a confident smoothness.

This bottle was brought to the table by my friend Brendan and was tasted along with Costieres de Nimes from France.

Bodegas Muriel Reserva 2005 DOCa Rioja, Spain

Made from 100% Tempranillo grapes and fermented in stainless steel tanks before aging in American and French oak for two years, then in bottles for another two.

Totally smooth, dark purple ruby colors appear in the glass, showing a complex combination of vanilla, oak, blue fruit and underbrush with nutty notes, a layered chewy creaminess, a fine texture and a long finish. Also attractive hints of spices accented by a cozy herbal note. SRP $20.

Sampled at Spain's Great Match WINEFOODDESIGN at Metropolitan Pavilion on October 24, 2012.

Alvaro Palacios Les Terraces Priorat 2005 Spain

From Cataluna, Spain, and made with 40% Carinena, 40% Garnacha and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this dry, deep, ruby/purple red wine blend has intense aromas of ripe figs, anise, leather, earthy minerality, and leather. Exotic flavors range from black currants and herbs to licorice on the mid-palate, and a finish of sour cherries and blackberries with firm tannins. 14% alcohol and in the $35 range.

Bodegas Zabrin Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines 2006 Spain

Bodegas Zabrin Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines 2006 • This Grenache from Spain's Catalayud region has a bouquet of spices and smoke, soft tannins and on the palate, cherry, plums, and vanilla. Medium bodied, 14% alcohol, and ruby red, this went well with a cavatelli pasta with garlic and olive oil, sausage and broccoli rape. Finish was ripe sour fruits. Nice price of $7 makes it a no-brainer for an everyday wine with dinner. Picked this up at Rosetta Wines.

Juan Gil 2005 Bodegas Juan Gil Spain

This dry red from the the Jumilla region of Murcia Spain is made from 100% Monastrell grapes where whole clusters are macerated "Sur Lie" (On Lees or on the yeast residue) for 25 days, then pressed and aged for 12 months in French oak barrels. Color is deep purplish ruby and on the nose is red fruit and a hint of minerality balanced by the oakiness of the barrels. On the mouth there are cherries and a very good balance of tannins and acidity.

Altos De La Hoya 2006 Monastrell Jumilla Finca Hoya De Santa Ana

Spain • This Monastrell Jumilla is a dark red wine with medium to heavy weight and fragrances of white pepper and concentrated sour cherries, reminds me of a Syrah. Also present is the distinct bouquet of vanilla sticky buns with a long spicy finish. $13 from the Murcia region of Spain.

Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro La Planta Ribera del Duero Tempranillo Spain 2007

This Tempranillo by Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro from Ribera del Duero in Spain 2007 ... wafts of smoky bubble gum, toasted wood, jammy, dusty, cola and very fruit forward. Had this one at a new Turkish wine bar called Pierre Loti on Irving and around 17th street. It was $46 a bottle but can probably buy retail at around $10. This will be my first entry via twitter.

Ysios Reserva DOCa 2004 Rioja, Spain

Aged for 16 months in French, American and Hungarian oak, then in bottle for 22 months before release. Ruby colors in the glass with intense nutty aromas, while earth and leather play against hues of violets and raspberry. The palate is a smooth blending of cherries, blackberry, licorice and blue fruit. Silky tannins and well balanced with an attractive soothing creamy finish. $30 SRP.

Sampled at Spain's Great Match WINEFOODDESIGN at Metropolitan Pavilion on October 24, 2012.

Vega Sindoa 2007 Rose Spain

From the Navarro region of Spain comes this rich Rose made from 50% Garnacha and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose has a citrus raspberry, flint and definite spiciness. On the palate are cherries, honeysuckle and a lemon/grapefruit finish, and a bit bolder than most Rose wines. In the $9 range.

Rias Baixas Albarino Grand Tasting

Photo by Iñaki Vinaixa
New wine drinkers many not know about Albarino wines, so here's a short study. It's said but not proven that the Albarino grape was brought to Spain in the form of Riesling cuttings during the middle ages by German monks on pilgrimage to the Camino de Santiago. It's the finest variety grown in the Rias Baixas of the Galicia region in northwest Spain. The Albarino and Riesling grape share minerality as one of their similarities.

Last week I got the chance to sample a dozen or so of this crisp, zesty white wine at Zengo restaurant on 3rd Ave and 40th Street.

Laxas Albarino 2009
Sub-zone: Condado do Tea
Floral aromas with flavors of melon, nutty, pears, apricot, fresh with a luscious finish.

Adega Condes de Albarei Albarino 2009
Sub-zone: Salnes Valley
Muted aromas, fresh flavors, citrus, 7-up
Tasted with mixed seafood ceviche

Salneval Albarino 2009
Sub-zone: Salnes Valley
Muted aromas with stronger mineral flavors, pineapple, kiwi, banana, lychee, canned peaches

Adegas D’Altamira Brandal Albarino 2008
Creamy typical floral notes, peach, orange citrus, mango, marzipan, ripe apple, melon, lime, minerality, nice finish

Bodegas Y Vinedos Don Olegario Albarino 2009
Sub-zone: Salnes Valley
90 Pts Wine Advocate
“4th best wine in the world” WSJ
Intensely fragrant aromas of ripe honeydew melon, tasty pineapple with grapefruit and lychee, crisp and very smooth finish

Bodegas Mar de Frades Albarino 2009
Sub-zone: Salnes Valley
Fresh ocean air, melon, balanced beautifully, clean, explodes on palate, fragrant flavors, smooth long finish. Very nice!

Bodegas Marques de Vizhoja Torre La Moreira Albarino 2009
Sub-zone: Condado do Tea
Mineral aromas with bouquet of honeysuckle, apple, papaya with hints of chalk dust

Bodegas Martin Codax Albarino 2009
Sub-zone: Salnes Valley
Mineral, spirited, even toned, mild, citrus, hot tropical

Burgans Albarino 2009
Sub-zone: Salnes Valley
Attractive mineral aromas, green peppers, more tropical fruits, ripeness key, apple cream pie

Adegas Martinez Serantes Alba Rosa Albarino 2009
Sub-zone: Salnes Valley
Mineral aromas, floral, citrus flavors, yellow apple, ripe banana, pineapple, white pepper, nice

Pazo de Senorans Albarinos 2009
Sub-zone: Salnes Valley
Floral aromas, citrus, grapefruitr, apricot, lemon rind

Santiago Ruiz Albarino 2009
Sub-zone: O Rosal
My clear favorite of the day, is this blend of 70% Albarino, 20% Loureiro, 10% Treixadura, and 5% Caino Blanco and Godello. Sweet floral aromas with white peaches, grapefruit, apricot, kiwi, lychee, some apple and fresh herbs, while showing good structure and a balanced acidity.

Agustin Cubero UNUS Syrah 2006 Spain

From Bodegas Agustin Cubero in the Calatayud region of Spain comes this VERY dark, VERY opaque, VERY purple wine that is made from 100% Syrah grapes.

This one is BIG and RICH and a real bargain for something in the $12 range, found this at The Wine Room of Forest Hills.

On the nose- rich aromas of barnyard, bacon, horse and varnish, and flavors of black currant with a citrus edge, then emerging bursts of chalky violets and roasted peppers. Reminiscent of a Sicilian Nero D'Avola. Layered and complex and with a long finish.

Valsan 1831 Noviembre de Finca El Monegrillo 2006, Spain

From Manchuela, Spain where the popular red grape is usually Tempranillo, here is a tasty blend of 60% Shiraz with 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 14 months in French oak Allier barrels of varying cooperages, with different degrees of toast and stave sizes.

Deep garnet colors in the glass with aromas of dark fruit, blackberry pie and mint along with a toasted earthy edge. Nice rounded tannins and good acidity along with flavors of caramel, underbrush, anise and pepper. A long mature finish leaves the senses satisfied and wanting more.

Bodegas Montecillo Crianza 2003 Spain

From the Rioja region of Spain comes this red wine that received an 87 rating from Wine Spectator. Made from 100% Tempranillo grapes with more than 1 year in French oak barrels, and 1 year in bottle.

There is so much going on in the nose, like milk chocolate, grilled meats, leather, licorice, animal, and vegetal, but there's also a mild wafting of cat pee. This is the first time I've ever ran accross this aroma in a wine. I always thought it would be more common in a white wine.

The palate is awash with good ripe black cherries, dark fruits, tomato and a hint of oak. Having a lot going for it, and a complexity that's difficult to ignore, it's hard not to like this wine... and I want to like it, but I just can't get past the cat pee. I'll try it again tomorrow to see if anything changes.

This bottle retails for around $9.

Man of Numanthia

Recently, I had the pleasure of attending a dinner at Geoffrey Zakarian’s The Lambs Club in NYC with Estate Director Manuel Louzada, from Bodega Numanthia, to introduce three different vintages of Termes, Numanthia and Termanthia.

Born in Portugal, Louzada lived in Spain for ten years, where he developed a love for the sea as well as a more introspective way of looking at life. He studied agriculture, engineering, and agronomy and eventually returned to Portugal where he set to work making Port wine. In 1999 he moved to Argentina to make sparkling wines for Bodegas Chandon where the focus is on detail.

His three year plan, turned into nine, and he eventually moved to Numanthia in Spain in 2008. “Character and concentration are the trademarks of the Toro region wines, and we want to be truthful to soul of the wines,” notes an enthusiastic Louzada.

Numanthia was founded in 1998, and in 2006 the partners sold to Moet Hennessey. Some of the uniqueness of Toro wines is rooted in the fact that some of its vines are 60 to 200 years old.

I asked Manuel, how his experience with Port and Champagne influenced his winemaking…

“The influence of Port is about character -- it’s about power,” says Louzada. “It’s about trying to understand the massive strength of nature. When you taste Port wine for the first two years, I can assure you it’s not a very pleasant sensation, because of the alcohol, because of the amount of tannins, because of the fruitiness that seem overwhelming. What makes the big difference is the development of understanding of those powerful details.”

“Champagne on the other hand is the opposite. It’s how a single 1%, 2%, 3% of the most delicate wine makes such a big difference, so it’s about small details; it’s how the small percentages change the character of a wine. Blending it was a beautiful exercise, because when you taste base wines, whatever you have in thebase wine, good or bad, is going to be multiplied by a thousand because of the carbonic. So I had a lot of fun learning about, and making sparkling.”

“When blending Termanthia I had to choose between 22 or 23 barrels -- deciding which of the 20 I’m going to use-- there anything more detailed than that? You have to be able to figure out how to get to the picture you have in your head.”

Tinta de Toro

The Spaniards of the region call it Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo). A typical Tempranillo will usually display a full, muscular body and a viscosity with dark purple colors woven with aromas of black currants, violets, licorice and caramel. The bouquet may blend into a palate of plums and dark chocolate, all working to create a soft but supple wine with a long dusty finish... the better ones are a very nice balance of tannins & acidity.

A Quick Study of the 3 Vintages

The Termes 2007 was a warm vintage with elegant and delicate tones, while the 2008 Termanthia was a more traditional vintage with a beautiful combination of fresh fruitiness and tannic structure and concentration, with 2009 presenting yet another warm vintage concentration, highlighting extremely soft tannins. Louzada explains that some wines can be drinkable upon release but can be equally palatable in 30 years.

Tasting Notes and Pairings

Termes 2009

The first up is the Termes 2009... 100% hand harvested, 4 months in stainless steel tanks, then aged in French oak barrels for 14-16 months. (The 2008 was expressly fresh fruit, while the 2009 was slightly warmer vintage like 06, 03 with a level of intensity, and lots of character). Aromas of raspberry, strawberry, fruity, sweet lush tannins, lively vibrant fruit character. nice structure, toasted, cedar, layered juicy texture on palate. Paired beautifully with Beef Carpaccio with Piquillo Pepper, Egg and Jamon Serrano, delicate nuances, which rounds out the tannins. SRP $30


Numanthia 2007

Numanthia 2007, 100 year old vines, 18 months in French oak, more concentration, more complexity in the fruit, more aging, 100% new oak, a bit toastier and spicier, so you can feel the intensity of power and remarkable balance. On the palate, dark chocolate, cassis and spice. Paired with Veal Chop, Soubise, Summer Squash. SRP $60


Termanthia 2008

"Termanthia 2008 is a the expression of a single plot that is 120-140 year old vines, and explosion of fruit fresh cherries, like a bomb, complex so everything that we do has to be the most delicate winemaking technique to try to dominate that force, that strength of nature. Hand de-stemmed, crushed by foot, twice thru new barrels." Paired with Lamb Loin with Stuffed Piquillo Peppers and Eggplant. Can be aged for 30 years. SRP $200

Pago de Vallegarcia Hipperia 2009

Pago de Vallegarcia is found in a part of Spain's "Montes de Toledo" a forest terroir near the Cabaneros National Park. Skewed toward the French Bordeaux style, Pago de Vallegarcia produces their 2009 Hipperia with a blend of 47% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. After initial fermentation and maceration it is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels and 18 months in bottle.

Dark cherry colors in the glass, bold aromas of red berry, blue fruits, fresh herbs and balsamic with a palate displaying violets, blueberry, cassis, licorice,  eucalyptus, mint and a mild smokiness.  Nicely balanced with strong tannins, and a long finish. 14.5% alcohol and SRP of $29.99.

Sampled at Spain's Great Match WINEFOODDESIGN at Metropolitan Pavilion on October 24, 2012.

Marquez de Riscal Rioja Reserva 2002 Spain

Spain • This dry red wine in the familiar silver netted bottle is made from 90% tempranillo, 10% graciano y mazuelo grapes aged 2 years in American oak. Color is ruby red with medium to heavy weight and on the nose is raspberry and cherry and on the palate chocolate, tabasco and slight hint of mold or mushroom. Price ranges $13-17 and 14% alcohol.

Cameron Hughes Wine

This past Sunday Greg Dal Piaz from snooth.com had a sampling of some of the new Cameron Hughes wines. Here's their website's mission statement:

With an obsession for quality and innovation, Cameron Hughes Wine, founded by Cameron Hughes and partner Jessica Kogan, is dedicated to building a reputation for delivering the best domestic and international wine values in the marketplace today. Our focus is on buying at the high-end, small available 'Lots' of super premium wine. Because not all wine at the high-end is bottled, we rescue those 'Lots' do some stylistic blending and get it to you at a great price.

Our company produces and markets wine under Cameron Hughes Lot Series, Hughes-Wellman, RockRidge, and Evergreen. We do not own vineyards or ferment wine. Our business model is built around what we call in the industry the “spot” market for super/ultra premium bulk wines. Essentially, what this means in plain English is that we eliminate the middlemen. We use our own palates as guides to deliver delicious, super premium wine that is easily accessible price and style-wise.

Our company is founded on the concept that excellent wine should be available at a value price. We know that it’s hard for the wine lover to know how to navigate the scores, prices and hype about wine out there. By working with vineyards around the globe we bring our customers the finest values and new exciting wines that give them the unique status of truly being "wine insiders."

Sounds to me like a way to get really good wines for very low prices. I believe if purchased by the case (mixed) the average price per bottle is $10. I had the chance to try 5 red wines from Cameron Hughes new "LOTS":

Lot 98, a 2007 Campo De Borja 60% Grenache/30% Syrah/10% Mourvedre blend from Spain: 14% alcohol, jammy acohol on the nose, palate of cherries, pepper, black fruits and oak, mild tannins.

Lot 93, a 2004 Tempranillo from Spain: Deep purple, ultra fruity nose very nice aromas of violets and flowers and red cherries/ red fruit on the palate, really nice.

Lot 86, a 2006 Lodi Zinfandel from California: Nose: warm, wood, jammy on the sweet side of dry, juicy and chewy, also very nice.

Lot 72, a 2005 Meritage from California: Nose: sweet, earthy aromas with a Bordeaux model.

Lot 75, a 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa California:, Nose: oak, Fig Newtons (Eric G called it), raisins, slightly bitter on the palate.

All were very good, my 2 standout favorites were the Spanish Tempranillo and the California Zinfandel.

Monte Real Gran Reserva 1998, Bodegas Riojanas DOCa Rioja Spain

According to the governing traditions the Reservas from Rioja must spend (at least) 1 year in oak barrels and 2 years in bottle; Gran Reservas spend (at least) 2 years in barrels and 3 years in bottle.

The Monte Real GR blend is 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo and 5% Graciano, aged in American oak casks for 24 to 30 months and in bottle for 36 months. I first sampled this in 2008 at the Astor Center's Rioja Wine Seminar where my notes are as follows:

On the nose are beautiful bright cherries with aromatic spices and ripe summer fruits, while on the palate waves of dark fruit make for an excellent balance and a lush, long finish. I did a search and PJ Wine Co. has it listed retail at $26.99. This, I believe, is an amazing value.

Here are my notes on the same wine 4 years later at the "Spain's Great Match/WineFoodDesign" held in the Metropolitan Center in NYC this past week. 

Pale ruby colors in the glass with burnt orange around the rim, mild spices, white pepper, subdued, ripe cherry, smooth, mild wood, very smooth finish. Presently the SRP is $55.