Romano Dal Forno Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006

One of the top Amarone producers in the famed Veneto and inspired by Giuseppi Quintarelli, Romano drastically lowered it's vine yields resulting in rich, expressive and dense wine. The classic blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes is partially dried resulting in an intensity of flavor, texture and aromatics and ultimately making some of the best Amarones in the world.

With deep colors of dark ruby, colored by brooding aromas of sweet raspberry, strawberry, and a viscous and plummy texture. On the palate fragrant smoked meats offset by bing cherry, dark chocolate, and tobacco. Very nice acidity and silky tannins.

A bottle generally goes for about $400, but I sampled this at The Vias Portfolio tasting last week.

Soave is Back

Gary Grunner, National Sales-Brand Manager of Cantina di Soave, invited me on a recent Sunday afternoon, to Il Poeta, one of the finest new Italian restaurants in Queens, New York. Three new wines from Veneto were the main event, paired perfectly with cuisine from the same region prepared by Veneto native, Chef Mario DiChiara, and co-hosted by his business partner Luca.


Rocca Sveva Soave Classico 2008 DOC

When I was a younger man, the most famous white wine from Italy was from the Soave region, near Verona. Regional Garganega and Trebbiano grapes were among the finest then and remain so until this day. The first tasting selection, from Cantina di Soave is this very same Soave Classico, a fond reminder of my youth, and proof in my estimation, that Soave has not only made a strong comeback but remains one of Italy's greatest white wines.

This straw colored white wine, made with 100% Garganega grapes, expresses blossoming aromas of fresh fruits, melons, pears, apples and mild cinnamon. A surprising depth of flavor and texture balances very nicely with bright, crisp acidity, and a nutty finish.

Soave Classico proved to be a super match-up with the first two courses, a burrata with arugula and prosciutto, and "sardines in carpione," delicate fish that's fried, then marinated in a saor sauce (vinegar with onions, pine nuts and raisins).


Rocca Sveva Amarone della Valpolicella 2006 DOC

The Amarone Process
The hand-picked clusters are set to dry on "drying racks" for at least 3 months in special temperature- and humidity-controlled lofts. During the drying period, the grapes are affected by "noble rot" or botrytis cinerea. By the time they are ready to undergo maceration and fermentation they will have lost up to 50-60% of their water content. They are then de-stemmed and pressed, and the must is put into small fermenters where it ferments at low temperatures (50°F) for some 25-30 days. When the alcohol reaches two-thirds of its final level, the wine is put into stainless steel tanks at 68°F to complete fermentation. The wine is then matured in oak casks for a minimum of 24 months, followed by an additional twelve months in bottle.

Deep ruby with warmer colors around the edge of the glass, along with cherry pie aromas, layered with flavors of rich chocolate, dried fruits, bing cherries, and dark berries urge you to savor every sip. This full-bodied gold medal winner is the perfect pairing for a hearty meal. On the palate has a nice full-bodied structure, with notes of hazelnut, a beautiful balance and lasting finish. We decanted this wine for over an hour and it opened beautifully— the perfect partner for a Risotto with duck ragu.

Gold medal winner 2008 Vinitaly
Gold Medal and Trophy 2008, 2007, 2006 International Wine Challenge

Rocca Sveva Ripasso di Valpolicella Superiore 2007 DOC

Made from 70% Corvina, and 30% Molinara and Rondinella, and employing a process by which the wine is "re-passed" for 11 to 14 days over the freshly fermented pomace/lees of the grapes used to make Amarone, this lush 2009 International Wine Challenge Gold medal winner, is then further aged for six months in the bottle. The "re-passing" provides increased structure as well as an appealing roundness; 30% of the wine is then matured in oak barriques and 70% in large oak botti for an additional 12-18 months.



The hospitable bouquet is abundant with black fruits, a smoky oakiness, with slight barnyard alongside exotic spiciness. Luscious ripened black cherries and vanilla contrast a slightly floral edge, as a prelude to a smart, smooth and long finish, pairing exquisitely with sirloin steak and mustard sauce, mushrooms and potatoes.

It was clear to all on this particular Sunday afternoon, that the best vineyards in Italy are producing premium but affordable wines. Soave is back with a flavorful vengeance, and Chef Mario and I were happily surprised and excited about the many amazing selections from this rich and fertile region.

Il Poeta is a family owned restaurant featuring classic Italian dishes brought to life with the culinary touches of Chef Mario DiChiara. Fine dining and exceptional service is what you can expect when you visit there. After years of experience as Chef at such restaurants as Harry's Bar (owned by Cipriani in Venice, Italy), Cipriani (NY), and Il Corso, Chef Mario DiChiara and his brother-in-law Luca opened Il Poeta to rave reviews.

Zenato Valpolicella 2007

A blend of 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella and 10% Sangiovese from the Valpolicella Classico area. Aged for six months in stainless steel tanks and six to eight additional months in oak barrels.

Exotic aromas of cured meats, animal and some distinct chocolate on the palate with coffee notes, licorice and dark berries. The hefty tannins were well integrated and paired with the simplicity of the meal I had at Quinto Quarto in the West Village, NYC. Carciofi with arucola, shavings of pecorino cheese and olives made for a super salad course, followed by Fresh pasta with sausage and mushrooms.

Importer notes:
Ruby-red in color tending toward garnet as the wine matures. Dry and robust on the palate with an excellent, velvety texture, this wine offers fleshy aromas of wild berries, currant, black cherry and spice, framed by intriguing hints of chocolate."

Bertani Recioto della Valpolicella Amarone Classico Superiore DOC 1975

This is an Amarone from the Bertani family vineyards. Founded over 150 years ago, Bertani became successful by producing quality wines, and buying some of the best vineyards in the region, which allowed them to further control the process from start to finish. The 1975 Vendemmia was one of the finest vintages between 1960 and 1980.

Balance is the word to describe this beautifully aged Amarone. The colors show deep ruby with rust around the edges, floral aromas winding around dried red fruit from the forest floor, a holiday fruitcake, raisins, and dusty, musty flavors expressing ripe cherries, licorice, plums, spices, and vanilla lingering on the palate.

This wine was a thing of beauty, and a birthday gift from Carolina & Gary. Thank you!

Winemaker notes:

"... It is the product of selected grape bunches from specialised vineyards: the grapes undergo a lengthy natural drying process, followed by extremely slow fermentation in the harshest winter conditions. A long ageing process over a number of years in large oak casks gives the wine its extraordinary balance."

Grape varieties:
Rondinella and Corvina Veronese. Vines are cultivated using the “spalliera” method. Pruning: “Guyot“ method with 5.000 bases/ha.

Area of production:
These grapes are produced in the vineyards of the Bertani Estate in Villa Novare in Arbizzano of Negrar in the heart of Valpolicella Classica. The soil, of the eastern side, is of marlcalcareous composition, while in the western side, a modest stratum of agrarian soil, covers slabs of calcareous stone.

Vinification:
The manual harvest takes place in the second week of September. A selection of the best, perfectly ripe and healthy bunches is then transported to the loft extremely airy rooms situated in the wine cellar garret and laid out on cane mats for the drying. After about 120 days, during which all operations are make daily and manually, the withering gives the grapes a thickness, a wide variety organoleptic addition and a concentration of sugar of about 24/25° babo. In mid- January grapes are picked from the bunches and pressed. Then the grapes are vinified with an initial very low temperature of 4/5°C, which reaches in the final stage a temperature of 18°C. The slow fermentation that follows to the period of maceration (about a total of 50 days) gives the wine a high level of noble alcohols and glycerine, very important elements for the elegance and softness of the taste.

Ageing:
It ages for about 6 years in Slavonian oak casks (the capacity is from 60 hl) and an aging period of about 12 months in the bottle.

Santa Sofia Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Gioe 2003

From one of the most prestigious DOC regions in Veneto, the Valpolicella, the Begnoni family produces this fantastic Amarone by drying the grapes for 90 to 120 days, aging for 36 months in Slovenian oak and then 12 months in Allier oak, and finally 8-12 months in bottle, the blend is 65% Corvina, 30% Rondinella and 5% Molinara with 15% alcohol.

Vibrant ruby red in the glass showing powerful aromas woven with black cherries, floral accents and vanilla laid over spicy smoked dried fruits and licorice, nicely balanced, cherry pie and chocolate lingering on a velvety finish.

Sampled this at Vino 2010 Italian Wine Week at the Waldorf Astoria.

Mille Bardolino Veneto DOC 2009

70% Corvina with 30% Rondinella, this light bodied red wine from the hills of Verona is a ripe and lively every day wine... and by the way is made with the same grapes as Valpolicella. The package is a $13, 1000 ml. bottle with a screwcap with mild aromas of raspberries, red berries and spices, similar in style to a Pinot Noir. This would make a good bottle for Thanksgiving dinner. Recommended by Carolina at The Wine Room of Forest Hills.

A Dinner in the Veneto Style

This week I had the good fortune of experiencing a traditional Venetian themed dinner and wine pairing at the home of my friends Eric and Deborah. Eric and I have had a few conversations about risotto, and how unsuccessful I was in my 3 attempts to make it. So this evening was an education for me... I was able to watch his process from start to finish, and for me, hopefully the 4th time will be the charm.


While Eric made the Risotto we had a glass of Riondo Prosecco, with delicous fragrances of orange blossoms, apricots and ripe peaches.

The first course was Risotto ai Funghi di Bosco, an AMAZING Risotto with mushrooms (crimini and shitake), shallots, sage and butter. This was paired with the Pieropan Soave Classico 2002 I brought that I think might have been just past the curve... but it did have a few interesting qualities like aromas of Vinsanto/Moscata, melon, cantelope, apple compote with over-ripe fruits. The color was an amber yellow, a bit darker than it probably should be, but strangely enough worked with the course.

Next was Fegato di Vitello alla Veneziana con Radicchio Rosso di Trevisi Al Forno, Calves Liver and Sauteed Vidalia Onions over Baked Polenta encircled with Radicchio, paired with Masi, Campofiorin Rosso Del Veronese 2005 (brought by Allan). Deep ruby colors with rust around the edges painted this baby Amarone with ripe cherries, powdered sugar, aromas of cassis, currants, a bit of bacon... and flavors of delicious intense ripe cherries and black fruits like plums and blackberries. The great balance of acids and tannins matched the rich flavors of the liver while contrasting the savory bitterness of the radicchio.

Next course was Formaggio e Frutta, Gorgonzola, Parmigiano Reggioano con Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, Ciliegia di Marostica, Cherries, soft Gorgonzola, Reggiano, aged Balsamic Vinegar paired with my favorite wine of the evening, the Nicolis, Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico, Ambrosan 2001. Blue ruby colors paint this with INTENSE wood aromas, sour cherries, chocolate, black cherries cough syrup, unique, pruny and velvety... with a kick... 16% alcohol! I loved this wine.

And for an after dinner wine Eric brought out a bottle of L'Arco Pario a Valpolicella Ripaso made from Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara and, in very small percentages, Croatina. On the nose a fruity sweetness, black pepper, and flavors of ripe cherries, while the residual sugar makes this a chewy mouthful of fun.

There's an expression I once heard Mario Batali say, "If it grows together, it goes together." This night was the ultimate illustration of those 7 words of wisdom.

Cantina Valpantena Torre del Falasco Valpolicella Ripasso DOC 2007

A blend of Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella from Verona with a 10 day maceration time, the second fermentation on Amarone Torre del Falasco marc and aged in oak casks.

Ruby red colors, aromas of cola and vanilla, wild berries licorice and chocolate on the palate with a ripe, smooth silkiness and alcohol content of 13.50 %. This drinks like a $30 bottle of wine, being a super value at around $15 at The Wine Room of Forest Hills.

Cantina Di Soave's New Three Brands

One of Veneto's top producers, Cantina Di Soave introduced three new brands and National Sales Manager Gary Grunner poured samples to the press at the friendly and beautifully stocked Columbus Circle Wines, located at 1802 Broadway in NYC. Gary spoke about the great wines of the Veneto, and gave a very informative narrative of the region.

The brands include Duca Del Frassino, a Premium Wine-In-A-Box, Re Midas, an all new fresh affordable everyday indigenous wine, and Rocca Sveva on the higher end.

The Duca Del Frassino includes a white blend and a red blend, both in a box, that holds the equivalent of 4 bottles and after opening can stay fresh for as long as 5 months... retails for about $22.

Duca Del Frassino White
is a blend of 80% Garganega, 20% Pinot Grigio, both grapes are widely grown in the Veneto region. Aromas of pineapple, and fresh melon with floral hints on the palate, crisp and dry, but fruit forward and a very nice surprise.

Duca Del Frassino Red
is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Corvina with an earthy tone showing cherries and cassis and a very smooth finish.

Cantina di Soave Re Midas Corvina
Italy's Veneto region is the home of the Corvino grape used in so many great wines of the region. This one is a version using that same grape aged in stainless steel tanks for three months, then in the bottle for one month... and what you get is an everyday wine that is so food friendly. Ruby red colors and fresh floral aromas and a waft of dried fruits, topped with bright cherry flavors and sweet vanilla accents and spicy undertones.

Cantina di Soave Re Midas Soave
Made with 100% Garganega, aged 3 months in stainless steel followed by 1 month in bottle. Floral and citrus aromas, crisp fruitiness, noticeable minerality, and roasted nuts round out the pleasant finish... tonight worked well with gorgonzola cheese.

Rocca Sveva Soave Classico
This straw colored white wine, made with 100% Garganega grapes, expresses blossoming aromas of fresh fruits, melons, pears, apples and mild cinnamon. A surprising depth of flavor and texture balances very nicely with bright, crisp acidity, and a nutty finish.

Rocca Sveva Ripasso di Valpolicella Superiore 2007 DOC
Made from 70% Corvina, and 30% Molinara and Rondinella, and employing a process by which the wine is "re-passed" for 11 to 14 days over the freshly fermented pomace/lees of the grapes used to make Amarone, is then further aged for six months in the bottle. The "re-passing" provides increased structure as well as an appealing roundness; 30% of the wine is then matured in oak barriques and 70% in large oak botti for an additional 12-18 months.

The hospitable bouquet is abundant with black fruits, a smoky oakiness, with slight barnyard alongside exotic spiciness, mineral, raspberry, blueberry, raisins, and violets... quite a lot going on for $19.99. Luscious ripened black cherries and vanilla contrast a slightly floral edge, as a prelude to a smart, smooth and long, herbal finish.

Rocca Sveva Amarone della Valpolicella 2006 DOC
Deep ruby with warmer colors around the edge of the glass, along with cherry pie aromas, layered with flavors of rich chocolate, dried fruits, bing cherries, and dark berries urge you to savor every sip. This full-bodied gold medal winner is the perfect pairing for a hearty meal. On the palate has a nice full-bodied structure, with notes of hazelnut, a beautiful balance and lasting finish.

Palazzo Della Torre Allegrini IGT 2003 tasting notes

This is a blend from Verona consisting of 70% Corvina Veronese, 25% Rondinella and 5% Sangiovese. Color is ruby red, medium to heavy body. Nose: Black currant, alcohol, lemon rind, grapefruit. Bing cherries on the Palate. Finish: Fresh cut wood on back of tongue. Ripasso style: 70% of grapes are vinified and 30% is left to dry for 4 months, then vinified and refermented with the first batch, to get a more rounded wine. (Also known as Baby Amarone because of the Ripasso style vinification.)

This wine was on the Top 100 Wine Spectator list for 5 years in a row (I believe 2000-2005) and it's well worth the $16 price tag.

Cantina Valpantena Torre del Falasco Valpolicella Ripasso 2010

A blend of Corvina Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella from Verona with a 10 day maceration time, the second fermentation on Amarone Torre del Falasco marc and aged in oak casks. 

Ruby red colors, aromas of cola and vanilla, dark berries violets and chocolate on the palate with a ripe, smooth silkiness and alcohol content of 13.50 %

Instituto Grandi Marchi Tasting

On October 25th at The New York Public Library The Instituto Grandi Marchi presented their “Premium Brands”. The Institute, composed of 17 of Italy’s most renowned wine producers (Biondi Santi Spa, Michele Chiarlo, Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari, Pio Cesare, Tenuta San Guido, Cà del Bosco, Umani Ronchi, Carpenè Malvolti, Lungarotti, Masi, Mastroberardino, Alois Lageder, Rivera, Jermann, Donnafugata, Marchesi Antinori, Tasca D’Almerita) hosted a full day of wine tasting in collaboration with the Masters of Wine, the world’s most elite wine society. The producers were represented by Augusto Boffa from Pio Cesare, Raffaelle Boscaini from Masi, Piero Antinori from Antinori, Giovanni Folonari from Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari, Sebastiano de Corato from Rivera, Jose Rallo from Donnafugata, Giuseppi Tasca from Tasca d'Almerita. Hosting the panel was Charles Curtis MW, Head of North American Wine Sales Christie's, New York, and representing the new media was Gregory Dal Piaz from Snooth.


Each producer made a pitch describing their vineyards history, combining tradition with new technologies, diverse high quality Italian wines and new marketing direction.

The current President Piero Antinori pointed out that Italians in general do not like "groups", but this one is composed of competitors who are also friends... friends with a common bond of terroir, history, tradition, art, and vineyards hundreds of years old. He said, "Each bottle should share all these qualities with the drinker".

Here are a few of my tasting notes:

Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 2006
70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, 2 years in oak, 4 months in bottle, deep violet colors, delicious cherry pie aromas, dark waves of chocolate and coffee.

Tenuta Tignanello 2007 IGT
80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in new oak barriques after fermentation until December, blended and aged in barriques for a year, each barrique was individually tasted before bottle aging for another year. Black cherries pervade the palate with ripe fruits, concentrated aromas, blackberries, toast and chocolate... complex and sexy.

Biondi-Santi Tenuta Greppo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003
100% Sangiovese Grosso, 3 years in oak barrels, at least 4 months in bottle, aromas of sweet violets and roses, rosewater, sour cherries, structured tannins, great long finish.

Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido 2007 DOC
855 Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, aged in French oak barrels for 2 years and an additional 6 months in bottle, deep ruby colors, a marked intensity, beautifully balanced with fragrant violet aromas and persistent blue fruits, full bodied flavors with balanced tannins.

Donnafugata Ben Rye Passito di Pantelleria DOC Sicilia
Made from Zibibbo (Moscato d'Alessandria) grapes, aged in stainless steel tanks for 4 months then in bottle for 6 months, amber yellow colors, summer fruits, sweet dried figs, and a long honey finish.

Rivera Il Falcone Castel Del Monte Riserva 2005 DOC
70% Nero di Troia, 30% Montepulciano, aged 12-14 months in oak, 1 year in bottle, ruby red colors, chocolate, ripe cherries, and forest floor, supple and textured

Tasca d'Almerita Rosso Del Conte 2005 Sicilia
A blend of mostly Nero d'Avola and other red grapes from the estate, 18 months aged in barrel, six in bottle, deep purple colors, licorice, spice, while fruit comes through on the impressive finish.

Three Italians to Bring to Thanksgiving Dinner. Sofia Loren, Robert DeNiro and Mario Balotelli?!?!?!

Well, you could try, but here are three Italians that might be easier to find... and will definitely work with your next Thanksgiving Dinner.

'IL' Spr!z... it's an Apertivo modeled after the Venetian Spritz recipe blending semi-sparkling wine with blood orange. The flavors and aromas are natural bold blood orange with herbal hints. This will pair perfectly at the beginning of the day with cured meats and cheeses.


Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG
Estate grown blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino & Canaiolo hand picked, stainless steel fermentation, aged in French oak barriques for 18 months followed by three months in bottle. Nice acidity and tannins, ruby colors in glass, with exotic aromas of cherry and spice, wood and dark fruits. Full body with tobacco notes and black cherry flavors, and a good long finish, this will work well with Turkey Dinner along with the following Rocca.

Rocca Sveva Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore DOC
70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Molinara blend is "re-passed" for 11 to 14 days over the freshly fermented grapes that have made the Amarone, giving it added structure, depth and roundness. 30% of the wine is aged in oak barrels while 70% is also aged separately in large oak botti for 12-18 months before bottle aging for 6 months. Dark ruby colors with deep aromas of vanilla, black cherry and cassis, Dark fruits on the palate and floral notes and a smooth long finish.

Bertani Amarone Della Valpolicella 1999 DOC

Italy • This is an Amarone from Veneto where the best grapes (70% Corvino Veronese, 25% Rondinella, 5% Molinara) are picked with the highest sugar content, laid on racks in dry lofts for about 4 months where they lose 60% of their water content. Concentrated as it is, here it is exposed to "Noble Rot", then store in Slavonian casks for from 5 to 8 years and in bottle for 1 year.
Color is garnet/brick, aromas of cherries, leather, licorice, dried fruits, spices and raw meat. On the palate are raisins, dried raspberries, earth, mushrooms, black pepper and dried roses. It is full bodied with a smooth nutty finish that lingers nicely. (Thanks Jake!)
This is an expensive bottle of wine, around $100 if you can find it, but on a special occasion I say go for it!