Italian Wine Series: Part 2-The Wines of Basilicata

"Basilicata, also known as Lucania, is an often neglected region of arid hills and desolate mountains that can be bitterly cold for a southerly place. But the cool upland climate has its advantages for viticulture, in wines that can show enviable aromas and flavours. Basilicata has only one DOC in Aglianico del Vulture, but that, at least, gives the inhabitants a source of pride. One of southern Italy's finest red wines, it is gradually gaining admirers elsewhere.

The Aglianico vine - which is also the base of Campania's vaunted Taurasi - was brought to Basilicata by the Greeks, perhaps as long ago as the sixth or seventh century BC. (Its name is a corruption of Hellenico). On the slopes of the extinct volcano known as Monte Vulture it makes a robust, deeply coloured wine that from fine vintages can improve for many years, becoming increasingly refined and complex in flavour. There are also youthful versions of the wine, sometimes semi-sweet and even sparkling, but the dry "vecchio" or "riserva", after ageing in oak casks, rate the most serious consideration.

Aglianico is also used for "vini da tavola" in other parts of the region, notably in the east around Matera, where reds from Sangiovese and Montepulciano also originate. White wines of interest are the sweet Moscato and Malvasia, the best of which come from the Vulture zone and the eastern Bradano valley."

...an excerpt from made-in-italy.com

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In an interview I did with Keith Beavers from InVino Wine Bar, I asked him what was the first wine that made him realize he loved wine? His answer was a wine from Regione Basilicata.

"It was a 1999 Paternoster Aglianico Del Vulture Don Anselmo. It was so full bodied and robust with rose petals and licorice and a tannin structure as mammoth as the mountain it was grown near yet harnessed and balanced. It sent off alarms in my mind and soul telling me this was very important somehow. And here I am a servant of wine, spreading the love...I hope."

The Wines of Campania: Donna Chiara Wines at Il Gattopardo

photo above by Alan Watts from Eat Italian

Last week Ilaria Petitto from Donna Chiara Winery guided us through an evening of tastings from the Campania region of Italy at Il Gattopardo, a fantastic Campanian restaurant in NYC owned by the legendary Gianfranco Sorrentino. The winery is located in Montefalcione, a small town in Avellino, where her family has been since 1885. Winemaking is a family tradition, tied closely to the land, where typical white wines like Greco di Tufo, Falanghina, Fiano di Avellino are well structured and long aging, as well as tasty reds like Aglianico and Taurasi. Ilaria pointed out "It is said that Taurasi is the Barolo of the south, but in fact can be better, after all Aglianico is a much more ancient grape than Nebbiolo."

Here are my tasting notes along with the wonderfully paired menu:

Donna Chiara Sante Spumante Brut IGT
a sparkling 100% Falanghina, made using the Martinotti lungo method of fermentation to maintain traditional flavors of the region, fine perlage (smaller, more numerous bubbles), floral aromas, fresh fruit, citrus, minerality and a tropical bouquet.

Paired with arancini di risotto con piselli, mozzarella e sugo di vitelli, bruschetta di fiocco di burrata e basilico.

Donna Chiara Falanghina Beneventano IGT
Fermented for 40 days, straw yellow colors, toasty, pineapple, buttery smooth, even toned, beautiful full bodied, good minerality and acidity and long aging potential.


Donna Chiara Fiano d'Avellino DOCG
2 month fermentation using wild yeasts, vulcanic soils giving layered texture, late harvest imparts an intense ripeness, showing in the aromatics of dried fruit, pear, apple, mild acidity, smooth and long finish.

Both paired with parmigiano di zucchini con provola e salsa al pomodoro.


Donna Chiara Aglianico IGT 2008
No oak touches this one, aged 6 months in bottle, light, fruit aromas, a palate of sour raspberry, glycerine, blackberry, and sour cherries linger on the finish.



Donna Chiara Irpinia 2008 DOC
6 months in French oak, using wild yeasts, structure & body, non-filtered, touch of oak (2nd and third usage barrels not so aggressive). Medium to full body, cherries, prunes, spice, glycerine, raspberry. Charles Scicolone, (a passionate oak-hater) commented on how these reds did not exhibit much oak)

Both reds paried with paccheri alla genovese napoletana


Donna Chiara Taurasi 2007 DOCG
12 months in French barrique, non filtered, ruby violet colors, bouquet of beautiful raspberry and blackberry aromas, with chocolate undertones, ending with a delicious long finish.

Carre d'agnello arrosto con patate e spinaci saltati.


Greco di Tufo DOCG
Apricot, summer fruits, pear lemon rind, pineapple and a fresh finish.

Pastiera

Campania is truly a diverse region with lots to offer. I suggest you try to experience some of their wonderful foods and wines here in the Big Apple or on your next trip to... Campania.

For another perspective on the event see Charles Scicolone On Wine

Wartalia "Kikoi" Aglianico 2010 DOC

Wartalia was founded in 2004 and is made up of fourteen independent farms with 50 hectares of vines located in the hills of the Telesina (or Calore) Valley and produces around 650 metric tons of grapes in several varieties - Aglianico, Falanghina, Fiano, Greco, Coda di Volpe, Malvasia and Sangiovese, plus Sannio DOC (AOC), Guardiola DOC and Beneventano IGT.

This find is a 100% Aglianico, aged briefly in wood then in bottle. Ruby red colors, medium intensity, clear appearance, with clean aromas of mature red fruit along with floral perfumes. The palate shows a dryness with medium acidity and tannins, spice with a vegetal hint, and good length on the finish. Reminds me of a raspberry pie. This is a bargain at about $11.

Guardia Sanframondi is a town and municipality in the Province of Benevento, Campania region, Italy, best known for the penitential rite held every seven years.

Accademia dei Racemi Alcione Aglianico 2004 IGT

Aglianico, the grape originally to have come from Greece, is the exclusive ingredient in this dry red wine from the Puglia region of Italy.

Alcione Aglianico di Puglia has a deep, red color, and on the nose, an intense bag of barnyard, bacon, and black raspberry jam with strange hints of plastic, then vanilla and dark ripe cherries.

Very tannic but balanced and with an earthy complexity, supported by a palate of raisins, leather, cocoa and tobacco. There's also a hint of vine ripened tomatoes just sliced open and even cured Italian black olives. This is an Old World wine with fruits in the background contrasting exotic flavors in the foreground.

Pairs very well with pasta with a red sauce, red meat or game.

Italian Wine Series: Part 4-The Wines of Campania: Lava Beneventano Aglianico 2006 IGT

The first thing I think about when I hear Campania is Aglianico. Being Southern Italy's signature grape, it was first brought from Greece over 2,000 years ago. It makes for a strong wine with an almost royal character.

Lava Beneventano Aglianico 2006 IGT

Grown in the lava-rich soil created by the eruption of mount Vesuvius, this wine reflects the minerality and unique flavors of the Campania region. The colors are a very dark, deep, opaque violet/ruby... on the nose displaying earth and black fruit, and firm tannins. On the palate hidden just below the surface, float hints of leather and mocha. The finish leaves white pepper or chalk on the back of the tongue and sour cherries. I'm amazed at the layers of aroma and flavor unfolding as I drink this interesting red wine. Found this at The Wine Room of Forest Hills.

Carraia Aglianico Beneventano IGT 2012

From the Campania region in the south of Italy, the warm summers allow for excellent ripening, Carraia hand picks these ripened Aglianico grapes, then they are fermented in stainless steel tanks.

In the glass showing dark ruby colors with aromas of slate, wet stone and raspberry, complementing flavors of ripe blackberries, raisin, glycerine, blackberry and licorice. Nice acidity with tartness and very soft tannins, followed by a decent finish. This is a beautiful value at under $10.

TERRA DI VENTO PETRALE AGLIANICO 2006 IGT

Had this with good friends at InVino last Friday night, liked it... but unfortunately I didn't take notes, so if anyone has any opinions on it, jump right in.

From what I can remember this Aglianico from Campania has nice earthy aromas with black cherries on the palate, 13% alcohol, and dark purple hues. I think it was about $40 a bottle at the wine bar, but probably is available at wine shops for about $15.

Rosaenovae Irpinia Terradora DiPaolo DOC 2009

Paolo Mastroberardino owns this winery formerly shared by brothers. Actually labeled as a red wine (because it's made from red Aglianico grapes), but looking like a rose and showing salmon coloring in the glass, see photo. Aromas of ripe summer fruits mingling with fresh flowers and slight minerality, then enhanced by flavors of sour cherries bringing a nice acidity to the table. Found this at The Wine Room of Forest Hills, recommended by Carolina. Approx. $16/bottle.

Paired so beautifully with a focaccia with mozzarella and fresh tomatoes and basil from Rocco's on Bleeker Street.

Librandi Duca San Felice Ciro Riserva 2005, Calabria

Tonight at The wine Room of Forest Hills, I got to taste 4 wines from Calabria, Italy (the toe of the boot). This one is made with 100% Gaglioppo, a regional grape originating in Greece, giving up aromas of intense spices and red berries, flavors of dried red fruits, ripe strawberries and ending with a long smokey finish. It shows vague similarities to a Grenache or an Aglianico, and the exotic spiciness make this a great candidate to pair with a lamb dish.

Aging: 24 months in stainless steel tanks, 6 months in bottle, 13.5% alcohol.

An Interview with Keith Beavers

The following is an interview with Keith Beavers, co-owner of In Vino Wine Bar & Restaurant and Alphabet City Wine Co. Keith also writes a blog called East Village Wine Geek.

What was the first wine that made you realize you loved wine?

It was a 1999 Paternoster Aglianico Del Vulture Don Anselmo. It was so full bodied and robust with rose petals and licorice and a tannin structure as mammoth as the mountain it was grown near yet harnessed and balanced. It sent off alarms in my mind and soul telling me this was very important somehow. And here I am a servant of wine, spreading the love...I hope.

Describe your perfect meal and the wine you'd pair it with?

Lamb, Baby! Lamb. Give me an herb encrusted medium rare, seared and roasted rack of New Zealand lamb served with a side of marinated mushroom and white bean salad (with some caramelized onions maybe) served over a bed of mixed greens. OOOHHHH WEEEE! Put me at a table with this dish and a bottle of Pont de Crillon 2005 Pont de Crillon Les Chais de Pont de Crillon Cote Du Rhone and I am a happy wine geek. Don't bother me I am eating. This beautiful Syrah is one of the most subtle and integrated Rhones I have had yet. It is earthy without too much soil and has a deep pepper fruit that is not separated from the body but is swimming through the fruit. Not only does it compliment the flavors of the dish but takes on a life of its own as on your palate. And it's twelve bucks!!

What's the most common misconception that people have about wine?

That wine has to be expensive to be good or even great. Then there's that whole Montepulciano d'Abruzzo versus Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano. But the first is the biggest.

What's your newest find for under $20?

I am really diggin' this beautiful blend from Gascogne called Le Rouge Gorge. It is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Tannat. I have never had a blend like this and only the French could pull this one off. Tannat is one of the most tannic grapes on the globe but somehow this producer finds calm balance in the blend. This wine is powerful yet subtle with lean, deep berry fruit and a gripping tannin structure that holds on just long enough for some face time and then it blends into the fruit and allows the subtle peppery cab franc notes to come center stage for a bit. It's a beautiful wine and it's only eleven bucks.


Is there a wine you've always wanted to try, but never had the chance to?

Every wine I have not tried yet! But seriously if anyone wants to pop on over to Alphabet City Wine Co. and bring a bottle of 1996 Grand Cru Burgundy ... I am there Tuesday, Thursday Friday and Saturday. No pressure. I will be waiting...but no pressure.

Red Wine Blind Tasting

At snooth on Sunday afternoon I participated in a blind tasting of 12 red wines. Led by Greg Dal Piaz of Snooth, all the bottles' labels were covered and we sampled 4 flights of three each. Here they are along with my comments:

Flight 1 (Sangiovese)

2005 Perdroncelli Alto Vineyard Dry Creek valley, CA
color: cool rose; nose: bright cherries, violets, roses; palate: raisins, vanilla

2006 Terra d'oro Amador County, CA
nose: cassis, chocolate; palate: grapefruit rinds, sour cherries

2005 Pietra santa Cienega Valley, CA
color: deep purple; nose: smokey, concentrated not unlike Amarone, intense, violets, cherry syrup, cough drops, and vanilla; palate: red fruits, ripe cherries, white pepper

Flight 2 (Other Italians)

2006 Montevina Amador County Aglianico, CA
color: ruby; nose: vanilla, blueberries; palate: strawberries, blueberries, fresh fruit finish

2006 Bocella Rasott Campi Taurasini, Italy
color: dark ruby opaque; earthy, plastic wrap, Christmas gift wrapping, chemical cherries, sweet and sour cherries

2004 Pietra Santa Dolcetto Cienega Valley, CA
color: opaque inky deep purple; beatiful aromas of clean earth, simple and on palate ripe cherries, wood and green peppers

Flight 3 (Syrah/Shiraz)

2005 Shoo Fly South East Australia
bramble and underbrush on the nose, also hints of earthy blackberries and palate of sweet ripe fruitiness, bubble gum, violets with a candy finish

2006 The Lackey South Australia
nose: red fruits; palate: super ripe blackberries, strawberries, blueberries, smooth and fresh finish

2005 Valley of the Moon Sonoma County, CA
medicinal cherries

Flight 4 (Syrah/Shiraz)

2004 d'Arenberg The Love Grass McLaren Vale, Australia
nose: vanilla and high alcohol at first, but opened to a sweet fruit bomb (in a good way), blueberry, lavender, fruit rind with a finish of white pepper and a smokey undercurrent, refreshing, jammy, balanced

2005 Sixth Sense Lodi County, CA
nose: vegetal, sweet and spicey; palate: vanilla, violets, cherry orange liquore, oak

2005 Toasted Head Dunnigan Hills, CA
pleasing aromas of mild floral tones, preview a palate of soft, balanced and perfectly ripe bing cherries

6 Rosé Wines for Thanksgiving

Picking a wine that will work with a turkey dinner can be tricky, here are six Rosés that will do the job without overpowering the dish:

Carpineto Rosato 2007
Bouquet: floral characteristics, particularly rose, acacia and grape flowers; fruity fragrances like apple, currant and sour cherry are evident.
Flavor: broad and fresh; the characteristic fruity aromas of the bouquet come through with complexity and end with a clean finish.

Domain de Mourchon Seguret Loubie (Rose) 2007
Having a Cote du Rhone designation, this Loubie Rose blend of Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah comes from 40 year old estate grown vines.
Tasting notes:
First up is a bouquet of summer fruits; peaches and nectarines with a tangy grapefruit accent. Next, the bright, crisp flavors of strawberries mingled with a floral undertone and long, fresh fruit finish.

Cantele Rosato Negroamaro 2007 IGT Puglia
Pinkish rose with hints of copper paints this Rosato from Puglia, while sour cherry gummy bears and strawberries express the aromas. The crisp palate shows a tart freshness that sings with the essence of rose water and cherries.

Gassier Sables d'Azur Rose 2009
From Cotes de Provence in France, this Rose comes in an hourglass shaped bottle and is a Grenache blend loaded with flowery aromas, waves of grapefruit, apricot and orange peel, with flavors of cherries and roses. $11


Rosaenovae Irpinia Terradora DiPaolo DOC 2009
Paolo Mastroberardino owns this winery formerly shared by brothers. Actually labeled as a red wine (because it's made from red Aglianico grapes), but looking like a rose and showing salmon coloring in the glass, see photo. Aromas of ripe summer fruits mingling with fresh flowers and slight minerality, then enhanced by flavors of sour cherries bringing a nice acidity to the table.

Macari Vineyards Rose 2008
Made from a blend of 45% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Pinot Noir, and 4% Malbec, this rose from the North Fork of Long Island shows colors of pale pink copper with fresh aromas of grapefruit, watermelon and some floral notes of hibiscus. The flavors range from white peach and sour apricot to orange zest, a hint of eucalyptus and a spot of papaya.

Madonna Alta Rosso Di Montefalco Umbria 2006

Made from mostly Sangiovese and blended with Sagrantino, this full-bodied red from the Umbrian region of Italy is a juicy, perfumed wonder-wine. Imagine this... you're holding a basket of fresh-picked mushrooms, then stepping into a barn, that's what's on the nose.

Hints of glycerine, waves of succulent, ripe blackberries, dark fruits, and integrated silky earthy tannins, painted in a package of opaque inky deep purple. Has an herbal edge that reminds me a bit of an Aglianico/Nero D'Avola.

Paired really well with a risotto with sausage and radicchio and red wine at InVino in NYC. Price at InVino, $36/bottle,13% alcohol, probably around $16 retail.

Interview with Vito Polosa of Aroma Kitchen & Winebar

What was the first wine that made you realize you loved wine?

A simple moscato that made me get up at 6 am on a sunday morning at the age of 10 to go have a sip all by myself.

Describe your perfect meal and the wine you’d pair it with?

I like wholesome, fresh vegetable soups and normally like to pair them with a good, vibrant, young white wine like a Tocai Friuliano or Ribolla Gialla...

Raw fish starters like crudo or sushi go wonderfully with a sparkling rose'.

If I’m in the mood for a good pasta dish I’ll go for homemade gnudi with a great bolognese sauce and pair it with a well made, honest Sangiovese.

A juicy piece of lamb that is well roasted but still nice and pinkish in the inside, served simply with no sauces is perfect with an older vintage of Aglianico.

Lastly, I love pies with seasonal fruits, and an old school custard or Creme Anglais and a Sauthern or a Passito di Pantelleria goes perfectly with it.

What’s the most common misconception people have regarding wine?

That it is bad for you.
That the higher in alcohol and concentration, the better it might be.
That it should not be tannic.

What's the advantage of ordering a flight of wine?

It’s always fun to taste different wines and to try to find out for yourself what you personally like and dislike. A flight of wine allows you to sample from a variety of wines without overdoing it.

What's your current pick for best value in an Italian wine at Aroma?

Right now we have a 2000 Bordeaux blend from Veneto that is on our list for $68 that I have seen in Italy selling for over $130 Euros.

Serafini and Vidotto Rosso dell'Abazzia.

Why do you think the concept of Aperitivo worked so well for you at a time when it was almost nonexistent in NYC?

People are still catching on to the concept of aperitivo, but for us it’s just a really great, civilized way to socialize after work.

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Alexandra Degiorgio and Vito Polosa’s childhood in the Mediterranean was founded in a culture with a strong, stable culinary tradition where great pleasure is derived from food and where dining is an experience to be savored. Great meals lasted for hours, bringing family and friends together. These meals were always prepared with local and fresh ingredients and with love, care and attention.
Since moving to New York, Alexandra and Vito have seen the same passion for food and drink but found the experience is rarely savored or remembered here. This passion is also often hindered by a fear that delicious food cannot be healthy for you. After they met in November 2002, they created an escape in their home by hosting frequent dinners to celebrate friendships and family, food and wine. They dreamed of creating a restaurant that would bring back the values of fresh, local food that is carefully prepared coupled with wonderful wines and genuine service. Alexandra Degiorgio and Vito Polosa opened Aroma Kitchen & Winebar in March 2005 with a vision to take guests to new levels of Italian food and wine enjoyment, making every meal a memorable experience.

Aroma is a study in contrasts: The urban/rustic interior features exposed brick, a dark wood bar with natural edges juxtaposed with mirrors framed with brushed steel. The room is softly lit by both contemporary chandeliers and flickering candles. Brought together by their shared passion for food, wine and entertaining, owners Degiorgio and Polosa are both as active behind the scenes as they are in front of the house. Alexandra, a native of Malta, was formerly a consultant for American Management Systems (AMS), an international information technology firm. Vito, from Potenza, Italy (just South of Naples) has extensive experience in service as waiter, head waiter or manager at such NYC restaurants as Fiamma, Da Silvano, Bice and Il Gattopardo. Most recently, he was a wine salesman for Winebow, one of New York's largest wine and liquor distributors. The team brings passionate, focused intensity to the art of relaxing hospitality. They plan to share their enthusiasm with wine tastings, directed pairings and other educational programs.

Visit Aroma's Website

An Exploration of Italy's Best Food & Wine

Last Saturday at LaVigna Italian restaurant in Forest Hills my friend Eric Guido hosted a fantastic tasting of 8 Italian wines paired with a menu to match.



1st Course: a typical Italian antipasto of dried meats, cheeses, peppers, lettuce, etc. paired with:
Col Vetoraz, Prosecco di Valdobbiadene

2nd Course: Pasta with Vodka Sauce with the following 3 Barberas:




Giacomo Conterno, Barbera 2005
Resinous aromas of earth, contrasting a fruitbasket of currants, plums and cherries, then chewy mouthwatering flavors of violets morph into a refreshing complexity and finishing with smoky, mineral notes. A luscious acidity makes this wine sing in perfect harmony with the Pasta.



Bruno Giacosa, Barbera, Falletto 2005
Dark fruit aromas, with a slightly chalky edge, this one is a more modern version of a Barbera. I found really unique notes of cherry pez candy, minerals, stone and a gasoline undertone. A great food wine with a healthy dose of acidity and smooth, silky tannins.


Domenico Clerico, Barbera, Trevigne 2005
Another modern Barbera with a floral background, a fair amount of toasted wood on the nose along with hints of vanilla. Well balanced with silky tannins and full body, this one goes on an on. By this point we're all taking a bite of pasta, then a sip of an alternating Barbera.

3rd Course: Filet Mignon in a Barolo sauce paired with:

Paolo Scavino, Barolo “Carobric” 1997
“Carobric” is actually a blend of 'Cannubi', 'Rocche' and 'Bric del Fiasc' and is a subtle play on words meaning 'expensive ridge' in Italian.

A rich bouquet of dark berries and roses with hints of truffles, rounding out to a dusty licorice, with leather, fresh herb, mushrooms and a hint of tar. This Barolo defines mouth-watering.


Tenuta La Fuga, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva “Le due Sorelle” 2001
This Brunello is aged in Slavonian oak for 42 months, then another 18 months in bottle before release. Eric describes this as a "wilder" Sangiovese and I have to agree with his description. Drenched in complex aromas of cherries, licorice and violets, followed by a flavors of minerals, smoke, tobacco, oak, and coffee. Notes of a pleasant medicinal finish linger and reveal a long finish with tannins that are well balanced with the earthy fruitiness of this great food wine. This one was my favorites of the night.

Mastroberardino, Naturalis Historia 2000
From Irpinia in Campania comes Naturalis Historia which is a single-vineyard blend of 85% Aglianico and 15% Piedirosso, aged in small French oak barrels for 18 months, followed by 12 months in bottle before release. White pepper and spices permeate the nose with violets and plums, combining with essences of cherries, mild toast and leather, and a delicious herbal quality that reminds me of an Italian Liqueur called Averna.

... and the finale...
La Sala, Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2001
By this point in time, I was just so into enjoying the wines that I stopped taking notes, but I remember the nuttiness and intensity of flavors. Here are Eric's notes: ...trades sweetness for spiciness. As is traditional in Italy, biscotti is "dunked" in Vin Santo. Amber yellow, long and intense, complex undertones of spicy dried fruit and roasted nuts.