Santi Pinot Grigio "Sortesele" IGT 2007

From the Veneto Region of Italy and made from 100% Pinot Grigio, with pale colors and exotic flavors. On the nose are apples, pears, with a floral bouquet. On the palate, melons and mild spices provide a good base for copious, fresh flavors with fine acidity and long finish.

Winemaker notes
Vinification:

In the Trentino dialect “sortesele” is the diminutive form of “sorti” which means “small parts of vineyard.” These were 4000 square-meter parcels of vineyard for which, according to ancient custom, the heirs of an agricultural property drew lots. The best parts went to the luckiest; in this manner, arguments between relatives were avoided. Pinot Grigio thrives in the Sortesele vineyard, situated along the Adige valley, north of Mezzacorona in Trentino, and it covers about 84 acres. This noble variety of Burgundian origin was derived from a mutation of Pinot Noir and brought to Italy during the first half of the 9th Century. The grape is characterized by a coppery gray color. A manual harvest is conducted in a manner appropriate for the selection of Pinot Grigio, a grape which ripens irregularly.

The grapes come mainly from vines trained in the “pergola trentina” system, in rows on alluvial soil, very well-drained due to the rocky subsoil. Grapes coming from the choicest zones of Friuli complete the blend. The yield is about 6.5 tons per hectare, or a low three tons per acre.

In late September, all healthy and ripe grapes harvested are immediately delivered to the cellars to ensure they are intact. After crushing, some of the grapes are left in the press to macerate for a few hours. After cold settling of the must, the vinification is by the white wine method with fermentation at a controlled temperature; selected yeasts are used to enhance the aromas of the wine. The new wine matures mainly in steel, chilled and on fine lees and protected from oxidation. A cold sterile bottling is performed in the spring.

DaVinci Pinot Grigio 2008

From Castello DaVinci "Tre Venezie", the area that at one time made up the Venetian Empire: Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and Veneto, Da Vinci Pinot Grigio is sourced primarily from the Trentino-Alto Adige region, although a small percent of the blend is from Surmaturo grapes.

Pale straw colors in the glass, with expanding aromas of Italian pastries, dried flowers, damp earth, fresh-cut green grass, contrasting with flavors of apples and lemon zest, a certain crisp acidity and a mild summer fruit finish.

Firesteed Oregon Pinot Gris 2006

From a blend of various vineyard sources and regions within the Willamette and Rogue Valleys in Oregon, this Pinot Gris varietal does well in this place. Very pale coloring, more like that of an Italian Pinot Grigio, with aromas of pear and honeydew melon and flavors of honeysuckle and spice. Fresh and clean with good acidity and weight, with lemon notes and easy drinkability, I paired it with a blue cheese, but it can easily work with a salmon dish.

Full disclosure: This bottle was a complimentary sample for Vigna Uva Vino from Firesteed Cellars.

Italian Wine Series: Part 5-The Wines of Marches (Marche)

Located on the Adriatic coast of Italy, the "calf" of the boot, Marche, has been known for its Verdicchio white wine that comes in the familiar green amphora bottle. The region was primarily known for its white wines and the Verdicchio di Matelica has emerged as one with even more character.

The reds are emerging from the shadow of the whites, including the Rosso Piceno, a blend of mostly Sangiovese with small amounts of Montepulciano, and Rosso Conero, a blend of mostly Montepulciano with a bit of Sangiovese.

The Vernaccia di Serrapetrona recently received a DOCG status, and Lacrima di Morro d'Alba is making a big splash.

Varietals of region:

Ciliegiolo
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Malvasia
Maceratino
Pino Bianco
Pinot Grigio
Pinot Nero
Sangiovese
Trebbiano
Verdicchio
Vernaccia Nera

DOCG Zones:
Conero
Vernaccia di Serrapetrona

DOC Zones:
Bianchello del Metauro
Colli Maceratesi
Colli Pesaresi
Esino
Falerio dei Colli Ascolani
I Terreni di San Severino
Lacrima di Morro d'Alba
Offida
Pergola
Rosso Conero
Rosso Piceno
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi (Classico)
Verdicchio di Matelica

A Discussion on Italian Terroir with Adolfo Folonari and Cesare Casella

This week at the Italian Culinary Center in New York City I had the pleasure of meeting Adolfo Folonari, co-CEO of Ruffino, who put together a tasting of his wines, and Cesare Casella, currently of Salumeria Rosi, who created the pairing menu.

The Folonari family has been in the wine business since the late 1700's, and bought the Ruffino Vineyards almost 100 years ago, so you can say Adolfo has wine running through his veins. Over the past 50 years they acquired seven small estates, Gretole, Santedame, Montemasso (all 3 in Chianti Classico), Lodola Nuova Estates (in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano), Greppone Mazzi Estate (Brunello di Montalcino), Poggio Casciano Estate (Chianti Colli Fiorentini), and La Solatia Estate (Chianti Colli Senesi).

The first 4 pairings with various Salumi:

Ruffino Chianti Superiore DOCG 2008

From the Poggio Casciano Estate vineyards in Chianti, using choice grapes during the harvest, as per the Superiore and Chianti Classico production standards, and aged for seven months in stainless steel tanks and two additional months in bottle. 75% Sangiovese (Minimum required by DOCG), plus 25% other varieties like Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Superiore rules require yields 10% lower than Chianti Classico. $12.99

Deep ruby colors, aromas of cherries, blue fruits, hints of tree bark and chalk, flavors of red fruits and especially spice on the back end.

Paired nicely with Prosciutto Toscana Grigliato from San Gimignano, a Tuscan ham rubbed with rosemary, black pepper and garlic, then grilled.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

With grapes coming from the Santedame, Montemasso and Gretole Estates in the Chianti Classico area, and a blend of 80% Sangiovese with a 20% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, it is then aged in a combination of oak casks, stainless steel tanks, and concrete vats for two years, with a minimum of three months in bottle. $24.99

Ruby colors with aromas of blue fruits and bacon, ripe cherries on the palate followed by white pepper, spice and tobacco.

Coupled with Prosciutto di Parma, the hind thigh of a hog, rimmed with pure white fat.


Ruffino Santedame Riserva Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

From the Santedame Estate Vineyards near Castellina in the heart of Chianti Classico, this is a beautiful blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino and a 5% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo. Only the best hand selected grapes are used for this single vineyard riserva, fermented in stainless steel, aged in French oak for twelve months with another six months in bottle. $33

Sexy bouquet of violets with intense floral aromas, complex flavors of blackberries, cherry candy, red licorice, smooth tannins with black cherries and cocoa powder on the finish.

Paired with Parmacotta, the floral aromas present in the Riserva make a fine balance to the sweet, cooked ham's brininess.



Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004

Only the best hand picked grapes are selected during several passes to pick bunches at the perfect state of maturation. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for two weeks, further macerated on the skins for 15 days, then aged in oak casks for 24 months. After resting in stainless steel tanks for another six months, the wine was bottled and aged for eight months before release. $79

100% Sangiovese Grosso with flowing aromas of plums, cherries, and barnyard, weaving into animal flavors, expressed by a full body and rich texture, with spice notes, fine tannins, and long chocolate finish.

Paired with Cacciatorino, the snack originally used by Piemontese hunters, but now popular throughout Italy. It's dense texture marbled with pockets of fat nicely work with the bold Brunello's husky demeanor.

After the initial tasting, we moved on to the luncheon where there were four more wines to sample.


Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia IGT 2009

Straw yellow colors, floral notes, kiwi, pear, hints of pineapple


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2005

80% Sangiovese, with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot combination, aged for 36 months, 3 months stainless steel, 24 months in oak casks, 3 months in vats, and at least 6 months in bottle. Violets, plums, spices with herbal notes.

Ruffino Romitorio di Santedame Toscana IGT 2004

60% Colorino, 40% Merlot, this one being my favorite of the day. Aged at least 18 months in oak casks, floral notes, black currants, dried cherry, dates, very complex with sultry earthtones and spices. Finishes beautifully with strawberries and chocolate.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2001

A fine vintage for this with 85% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, aged for 37 months is a well balanced, nicely structured classic Sangiovese Tuscan with ripe tannins and long finish.

Luncheon Menu:

Salumi assortment
Beans and Tuna
Short Ribs with Mushroom Risotto
Vanilla Panna Cotta with Chocolate Hazelnut Tuile

Cantina Di Soave's New Three Brands

One of Veneto's top producers, Cantina Di Soave introduced three new brands and National Sales Manager Gary Grunner poured samples to the press at the friendly and beautifully stocked Columbus Circle Wines, located at 1802 Broadway in NYC. Gary spoke about the great wines of the Veneto, and gave a very informative narrative of the region.

The brands include Duca Del Frassino, a Premium Wine-In-A-Box, Re Midas, an all new fresh affordable everyday indigenous wine, and Rocca Sveva on the higher end.

The Duca Del Frassino includes a white blend and a red blend, both in a box, that holds the equivalent of 4 bottles and after opening can stay fresh for as long as 5 months... retails for about $22.

Duca Del Frassino White
is a blend of 80% Garganega, 20% Pinot Grigio, both grapes are widely grown in the Veneto region. Aromas of pineapple, and fresh melon with floral hints on the palate, crisp and dry, but fruit forward and a very nice surprise.

Duca Del Frassino Red
is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Corvina with an earthy tone showing cherries and cassis and a very smooth finish.

Cantina di Soave Re Midas Corvina
Italy's Veneto region is the home of the Corvino grape used in so many great wines of the region. This one is a version using that same grape aged in stainless steel tanks for three months, then in the bottle for one month... and what you get is an everyday wine that is so food friendly. Ruby red colors and fresh floral aromas and a waft of dried fruits, topped with bright cherry flavors and sweet vanilla accents and spicy undertones.

Cantina di Soave Re Midas Soave
Made with 100% Garganega, aged 3 months in stainless steel followed by 1 month in bottle. Floral and citrus aromas, crisp fruitiness, noticeable minerality, and roasted nuts round out the pleasant finish... tonight worked well with gorgonzola cheese.

Rocca Sveva Soave Classico
This straw colored white wine, made with 100% Garganega grapes, expresses blossoming aromas of fresh fruits, melons, pears, apples and mild cinnamon. A surprising depth of flavor and texture balances very nicely with bright, crisp acidity, and a nutty finish.

Rocca Sveva Ripasso di Valpolicella Superiore 2007 DOC
Made from 70% Corvina, and 30% Molinara and Rondinella, and employing a process by which the wine is "re-passed" for 11 to 14 days over the freshly fermented pomace/lees of the grapes used to make Amarone, is then further aged for six months in the bottle. The "re-passing" provides increased structure as well as an appealing roundness; 30% of the wine is then matured in oak barriques and 70% in large oak botti for an additional 12-18 months.

The hospitable bouquet is abundant with black fruits, a smoky oakiness, with slight barnyard alongside exotic spiciness, mineral, raspberry, blueberry, raisins, and violets... quite a lot going on for $19.99. Luscious ripened black cherries and vanilla contrast a slightly floral edge, as a prelude to a smart, smooth and long, herbal finish.

Rocca Sveva Amarone della Valpolicella 2006 DOC
Deep ruby with warmer colors around the edge of the glass, along with cherry pie aromas, layered with flavors of rich chocolate, dried fruits, bing cherries, and dark berries urge you to savor every sip. This full-bodied gold medal winner is the perfect pairing for a hearty meal. On the palate has a nice full-bodied structure, with notes of hazelnut, a beautiful balance and lasting finish.