A TASTING OF 12 ZINFANDELS

This week I had a chance to attend a tasting of 12 Zinfandels hosted by Greg Dal Piaz at the Snooth offices. My tasting notes follow:

Flight 1: East of Napa

2007 7 Deadly Zins Lodi 14.5% $13
Medium to full bodied with aromas of smoked and raw meat, blood, vanilla and a grassy vegetal green-ness... contrasting on the palate with milk chocolate, juicy dark cherries, blackberries, red licorice, pepper and saddle.

2006 Terra d'Oro SHR field blend Amador County 14.5% $25
Pleasant aromas of lilac, violets, herbs and wood with flavors of blueberries, sour grape candy, red fruits with balanced tannins and a slowly fading finish.

2005 Berryessa Gap Yolo County 15.8% $16
Smoked meats again, dishwater, black and white pepper, ripe cherries jolly rancher, chemical aftertaste, harsh wood.

Flight 2: Old Vines

2006 Ravenswood Sonoma County Old Vines 15% $15
Still more smoked meats, rubber, white pepper, vanilla, sharp drying tannins, and wood.

2006 Rodney Strong Sonoma County Knotty Vines 14.8% $20
Immediately liked fresh floral aromas, fruit forward flavors with sweet ripe cherries, tongue numbing alcohol, red peppers and blueberries.

2006 Dry Creek Vineyard Sonoma County Old Vine 14.5% $25
Earthy aromas and full body are the foundation for the cool flavors of cherries, violet candy, and powdered perfumes.

Flight 3: Sonoma

2006 Valley of the Moon 14.5% $20
Smoked bacon and a thick, juiciness with an unfiltered look. Notes of blackberries and currants reveal nice acids and balanced tannins with a violet mildness.

2006 Simi Sonoma County 13.5% $20
Not too much happening here... mild chocolate with cherries, cassis, white pepper and hints of acetone.

2006 Four Vines The Sophisticate Sonoma County 14.8% $24
This one was a word association party: earthy aromas, mushrooms, spices, cinnamon, chocolate cherry candy, pepper, raspberry, dusty, red, minerality, refreshing, blueberries, blackberries.

Flight 4- Dry Creek

2006 Windsor Sonoma Dry Creek Valley 14.9% $24
A nose of tar with juicy chocolate berries, vanilla, black tea and smoke.

2004 Carol Shelton Maple Zin 14.9% $33
Wild mushrooms over mild aromas of red fruits and a palate of watermelon, perfume, chalk, candy and powder.

2007 Dashe Dry Creek Valley 14.7% $24
Muted floral aromas followed by an intensity on the palate. Rustic notes of blueberry pie a la mode, black pepper, cherries and grape jam.

Blind Tasting of 12 Pinot Noirs at Snooth

Flight 1
Under $20 from around the world

1 - 2006 Faively Bourgogne 13% $20

Muted nose of dried fruits, chalk, red berries, dry and diluted, with light pale colors, ghost-like, flat and flabby.

2 - 2007 Babich Marlborough 13.5% $15

Intense floral bouquet, minerality on nose with hints of strawberries, cherries, medium tannins, nice mid-palate.

3 - 2007 Schug Sonoma Coast 13.5% $20

Darker tones with vanilla on nose, fruit, fresh cherries, chewing gum, nicely floral, violet finish.

Flight 2
Entry level Oregonians

1 - 2006 - Ponzi Willamette 14.5% $34

A nose of cola with some vegetal notes, stewed fruits and flavors of blueberries, and violets and nicely balanced.

2 - 2006 Johan Willamette 14.5% $30

Floral nose, medium to heavy weight for a PN, ripe cherries, smoke, cola, with balanced finish.

3 - 2006 Stoller SV Dundee Hills 14.3% $40

Earthy barnyard, syrupy deep purple colors with balanced flavors of ripe cherries.

Flight 3
Mid range Californians

1 - 2006 Wild Horse Unbridled Santa Barbara County 14.3% $35

On the nose, cigar smoke, sweat, locker room, and a palate of sweet fruit bomb, pepper, cola and oakey midpalate.

2 - 2005 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard St. Rita Hills 13.5% $45

Aromas of mushrooms, chocolate, cocoa, dried fruits, plums with high acidity, not very balanced.

3 - 2006 Schug Carneros Heritage Reserve 14.5% $40

Perfumed aromas of fresh flowers, cheese, powdered violets, like the candy, with bright flavors, cherries and integrated oak.

Flight 4
Mid range Oregonians

1 - 2006 Fiddlehead Oldsville Reserve Willamette 14.1% $50

High alcohol, white pepper, chalk, wood, medicinal, chemical acetone edge, with bits of cinnamon.

2 - 2006 Benton lane First Class Willamette 14.5% $45

Nose of vanilla, cherry syrup, vegetal and medium tannins.

3 - 2007 Antica Terra Willamette 13.5% $45

Floral bouquet with warmth, herbs, barnyard, and opened wide with a spicy finish.

Blind Tasting of Twelve Syrahs

At Snooth's tasting room I had the opportunity to sample 12 Syrahs selected by Greg Dal Piaz. They were all 100% Syrah varietal, so it still amazes me how much of a range there was in the flights. A few common threads were the high alcohol content (a 14.57% average), full body, dark fruits, black pepper and spices. (Please note all bottles were opened 2.5 hours before tasting). So here they are, a powerfully dirty dozen.

2006 Neyers Napa Valley California - Hudson Vineyards Syrah 14.1% - $40

On the nose a funky barnyard waft and later opened but showed a medicinal aroma, while up front on the palate dark sour cherries and mainly black pepper in the mid palate.


2004 Burgess Napa Valley Syrah 14.7% - $20

Perfumed aromas, lilac, and a playful candy twist, fresh-cut wood or bark peeled back, green peppers, spices and a bit of raw onions with a cola finish. Liked it.


2005 LaTour Vineyards Napa Valley California Syrah 14.8% - $26.50

On the nose mushrooms and turned soil, black cherries and tannic structure.


2006 Alesia Santa Lucia Highlands California Fairview Ranch Vineyard Syrah 14.25% - $60

On the nose getting vinegar, sulphur, cat pee, and meats, while on the palate dark fruits, coffee, chocolate and blackberry...with smooth integration of flavors somewhat redeeming the rough aromas.


2006 Snoqualme Columbia Valley Washington State Syrah 13.9% - $12

Muted aromas of dried herbs lead into a diluted texture and a palate of ash, wood, blueberries, dried fruits and a dusty glycerine.


2006 Luca Laborde Double Select Syrah Uco Valley Mendoza, Argentina 13.9% - $25

Simple bouquet of toasted red fruit and barnyard, balanced, chewy, white pepper, blueberries with great finish... very nice.


2006 Stolpman Santa Ynez Valley Estate Syrah 15.1% - $30

On the nose, herbal and violets with specks of meat, flavors of sweet stewed tomatoes, white pepper, alcohol, red fruits and candy. Good one.


2005 Firestone Santa Ynez Valley California Syrah 13.5% - $18

Nose of petrol, oak, butter with a subtle diluted leather, fizzles on the midpalate.


2004 Zaca Mesa Santa Ynez Valley California Estate Syrah 14.5% - $20

Strawberries, meat, herbs, burnt rubber, dust, wood, fairly balanced.


2006 Dry Stack Cellars (aka Grey Stack) Dry Stack Vineyard Bennett Valley California Marie's Block Syrah 15.5% - $40

Earthy mushroom, meat, barnyard, black pepper, blackberries, sharp ripe fruits and very high alcohol.


2006 Grey Stack - Dry Stack Vineyard - Bennett Valley California The Narcissist Syrah 15.8% $48

Muted aromas of raw meat, on the palate alcohol, stout tannins, oak, chalky mid-palate, and a sour cherry finish.


2006 Four Vines Santa Barbara County California los Alamos Vineyard - One Tree Hill Block Syrah 14.8% $36

Bigger and fruity with cherry cola on the nose and a palate of violets, spices... medicinal but in a natural way, very herbal finish... my favorite of the twelve.

10 good wines for Under $10... wines for the NEW GREAT DEPRESSION

Here is a list of 10 good wines, mostly Italian, that you can get for under $10 a bottle:

Monte Antico Toscano 2004 IGT Italy
Colosi Sicilia Rosso Nero D’Avola 2005
Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2006 Chile
Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT Italy
Bodegas Zabrin Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines 2006 Spain
Casal Thaulero Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2006 DOC Italy
Fattoria di Bibbiani Poggio Vignoso Chianti 2005 DOCG Italy
Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Classico DOCG 2004 (375 ML) Italy
Rocca Delle Macie Rubizzo Sangiovese di Toscana 2006 IGT Italy
Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 Italy

10 good wines for Under $10

Here is a list (from this blog) of 10 good wines, mostly Italian, that you can get for under $10 a bottle:

• Monte Antico Toscano 2004 IGT Italy
• Colosi Sicilia Rosso Nero D’Avola 2005
• Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2006 Chile
• Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT Italy
• Bodegas Zabrin Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines 2006 Spain
• Casal Thaulero Montepulciano D'Abruzzo 2006 DOC Italy
• Fattoria di Bibbiani Poggio Vignoso Chianti 2005 DOCG Italy
• Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Classico DOCG 2004 (375 ML) Italy
• Rocca Delle Macie Rubizzo Sangiovese di Toscana 2006 IGT Italy
• Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 Italy

Duck Walk Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, 2006 Beringer Knight's Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Tomaiolo Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 DOCG, Averna

Today Rita and I visited our good friends Jody and Rich for a dinner paired with 3 wines. We started with the 2006 Duck Walk Cabernet from Long Island which is a dark garnet/plum color with a jammy nose of plums, cherries and chocolate. The palate showed a mild but not overpowering bitterness, but also reminds me a bit of a Pinot Noir, sort of leathery or tarlike. After about an hour the wine softened and revealed a good balance between fruit and tannins along with a nice smooth black cherry finish.


Then, Richie served dinner, a delicious gemelli pasta with a light tomato sauce with garlic, onions, carrots, bacon and green peas served on a dollop of fresh ricotta cheese. We paired it with 2006 Beringer Knight's Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, a ruby color with aromas of raisins and black fruits and a palate of chocolate, coffee and black cherry. Slightly tannic but also well balanced.

We continued with Tomaiolo Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 DOCG, purple ruby colored, with medium to full body, and a smooth bouquet of cherry, oak, figs, and currants.

After dinner we had a small glass of Averna, a great digestiv from Sicily made from the essence of many herbs.

Red Wine Blind Tasting

At snooth on Sunday afternoon I participated in a blind tasting of 12 red wines. Led by Greg Dal Piaz of Snooth, all the bottles' labels were covered and we sampled 4 flights of three each. Here they are along with my comments:

Flight 1 (Sangiovese)

2005 Perdroncelli Alto Vineyard Dry Creek valley, CA
color: cool rose; nose: bright cherries, violets, roses; palate: raisins, vanilla

2006 Terra d'oro Amador County, CA
nose: cassis, chocolate; palate: grapefruit rinds, sour cherries

2005 Pietra santa Cienega Valley, CA
color: deep purple; nose: smokey, concentrated not unlike Amarone, intense, violets, cherry syrup, cough drops, and vanilla; palate: red fruits, ripe cherries, white pepper

Flight 2 (Other Italians)

2006 Montevina Amador County Aglianico, CA
color: ruby; nose: vanilla, blueberries; palate: strawberries, blueberries, fresh fruit finish

2006 Bocella Rasott Campi Taurasini, Italy
color: dark ruby opaque; earthy, plastic wrap, Christmas gift wrapping, chemical cherries, sweet and sour cherries

2004 Pietra Santa Dolcetto Cienega Valley, CA
color: opaque inky deep purple; beatiful aromas of clean earth, simple and on palate ripe cherries, wood and green peppers

Flight 3 (Syrah/Shiraz)

2005 Shoo Fly South East Australia
bramble and underbrush on the nose, also hints of earthy blackberries and palate of sweet ripe fruitiness, bubble gum, violets with a candy finish

2006 The Lackey South Australia
nose: red fruits; palate: super ripe blackberries, strawberries, blueberries, smooth and fresh finish

2005 Valley of the Moon Sonoma County, CA
medicinal cherries

Flight 4 (Syrah/Shiraz)

2004 d'Arenberg The Love Grass McLaren Vale, Australia
nose: vanilla and high alcohol at first, but opened to a sweet fruit bomb (in a good way), blueberry, lavender, fruit rind with a finish of white pepper and a smokey undercurrent, refreshing, jammy, balanced

2005 Sixth Sense Lodi County, CA
nose: vegetal, sweet and spicey; palate: vanilla, violets, cherry orange liquore, oak

2005 Toasted Head Dunnigan Hills, CA
pleasing aromas of mild floral tones, preview a palate of soft, balanced and perfectly ripe bing cherries

7 Inexpensive but Good Wines

Here are 7 of my most recent favorite inexpensive but good wines.

J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
This Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, California is made from 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petite Sirah, 5% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot and 1% Malbec- quite an intense mix, but it works. Stainless steel fermentation, then 14-16 months in oak casks. Bright reddish purple in color with strong fruity fragrance of cherries cedar and blackberries, and cherry soda, chocolate and vanilla on the mouth. Enjoyed this with a cheeseburger at a new restaurant in Forest Hills by the glass, and it can be found retail at the $20 range. 13.8% alcohol.

Cantina Di Casteggio Oltrepo Pavese Barbera 2005 DOC
This medium weight ruby colored 100% Barbera is unoaked, so there's no wood influence, allowing a nose of pure mild red fruits, a palate of sour cherries, spice, white pepper, and a mix of fragrant herbs. After an hour of decanting the finish was smooth and fleeting, but after 4 hours the finish stretched out nicely. The mild tannins would hold up well to a pork or veal dish, or even barbecue. We are in the $12 range.


Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006
Blend is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 is a ruby red, dry, full-bodied wine from Tuscany with ripe red fruit and chocolate on the nose, and a fresh smooth palate with a good finish. 13% alcohol and $7.99.

Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2006 Chile
This Carmenere from Chile is aged for 8 months in small oak barrels, is a deep purple red, has mild floral aromas and complex fruit flavors including cherry, with spice and vanilla. This is an interesting pick... the flavor profile is unique (it's my first 100% Carmenere)... I haven't seen many around. Found this in the $10 range.

Chateau Grand Moulin 2005 France
This red wine from France is a blend of Syrah and Grenache grapes. Color is clear dark garnet red with cherries, ripe fruit and tar on the nose. Palate has black cherry and white pepper undertones and moderate tannin. It is paired well with warm gruyere gougeres. Not bad by the glass for $9.

Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT
This is a 100% Sangiovese red wine made from grapes from various locations in Tuscany, Italy. There's barnyard on the nose with black cherry and oak with cinnamon, and mild flavors of fruit and good balance. This is an inexpensive, but decent everyday wine, I believe it was $6.

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
This DOCG from Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy is made from 80% Prugnolo Gentile (a Sangiovese clone) and a 20% blend of Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo. 80% of the grapes are aged for two years in Slavonian oak and 20% in French oak. On the nose is cherry, oak, rose and vanilla and on the palate black cherries with moderate tannins and a smooth medium finish. In the $20 neighborhood, this is a good vintage to drink now but you can also cellar it for a few years.

NYC Gambero Rosso Tasting: Italian Wines of 2010

Last night I only had about an hour to sample as many wines as I could at the Gambero Rosso Tasting Italian Wines of 2010, so I checked out the table listing and went directly to the ones that caught my eye. All of them were exceptional and I took very brief tasting notes of each.

Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso Superiore 2006 DOC
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot and 10% Sangiovese. Herbal, tar, cherries, smoky.

Lungarotti Torgiano Rosso Vigna Monticchio Riserva 2006
licorice, tobacco, smoke, black cherries and violets.

Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerratalto 2005
nose: violets, plums, cherries, flavors: cola, ripe cherries, licorice, yum.

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio 2006
nose: blue fruits, cherries, flavors: raspberries, mint, cola.

Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Campolongo di Torbe 2004
nose: chocolate, mushrooms, roasted meat, saddle, flavors: ripe sour cherries, powder, slate.

San Felice Pugnitello 2007
nose: tobacco, sour cherries, flavors: plums, violet candies.

Firriato Harmonium 2007
red fruit, prunes, black cherries, powdered sugar, white pepper.

Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa 2005 DOCG
gaminess, rose water, anise, resinous spices, vanilla

Went to the Pio Cesare table looking for the 2005 Barolo Ornato, then the 2006 Querciabella Camartino, ma portroppo hanno finito.

Chateau Leoville Poyferre St. Julien 2003

The world of wine has been good to me. It's allowed me to meet interesting people with broad tastes and vastly different backgrounds. Ray O., after over a year of following my blog, recently took a trip from his hometown in Austin Texas to the Big Apple. We met for dinner at a small French BYOB called La Sirene, and Ray brought a bottle of Chateau Leoville Poyferre St. Julien 2003. He had originally bought a case to commemorate the birth of his 2nd son, and I thought it was very generous of him to show up with this wonderful Bordeaux blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc.

First up are the amazing aromas, the impression of clay and wet soil is so present right out of the bottle, with cassis and violets floating up from the ground. The deeply opaque purple colors translate onto the palate as delicious ripe cherry, paired with Christmas spices, accompanying floral notes and verdant black fruit. Velvety tannins and perfect balance make this wine an incredible masterpiece with a silky smooth and extremely long finish. Thank you, Ray!

Wine Advocate
I have had this wine three times out of bottle, rating it 97 once and 98 twice. It is a colossal success and a potential legend in the making. Its saturated, dense inky/blue/purple color offers up notes of crushed rocks, acacia flowers, blueberries, black raspberries, and creme de cassis. A synthesis of power and elegance, this multi-layered wine has spectacular concentration, sweet but high tannin, and low acidity A stunning effort that showcases this legendary terroir, it is a brilliant, brilliant success. The quintessential Leoville Poyferre? Anticipated maturity: 2009-2030. Score: 98. —Robert Parker, April 2006.

Wine Spectator
Pure cassis on the nose. Impressive. Full-bodied, thick and powerful, with loads of fruit and big, velvety tannins. Goes on for minutes on the palate. Huge wine. Very, very impressive. This is one of the big surprises of the vintage. Best after 2012. 19,165 cases made. Score: 95. —James Suckling, March 31, 2006.

Wine Enthusiast
A huge, opulent wine that packs sweet, rich tannins and spicy fruit. In the midst of all this decadence, though, is a kernel of tannic dryness. This estate, long the weakest of the three Lèoville wines, is now back in top form. Score: 93. —Roger Voss, May 01, 2006.

Tenuta Mormoraia Chianti Colli Senesi 2006 DOCG

San Gimignano is an old walled city in Tuscany that I was lucky enough to visit during my cycling trip in 2006. Here is a beautiful red wine from that region called Tenuta Mormoraia Chianti Colli Senesi 2006 DOCG. Grown in the clayey soils of the Colli Senesi hills around San Gimignano, these Sangiovese grapes yield a wine that is a deep ruby red in color. According to Vincent from Vinifera (who graciously provided sample tastings of this gem), Chianti Classico's forest undertones contrast with Colli Senesi's rolling hills type of dryer, austere, earthier and more powerful profile. On the nose is a beautiful ripe cherry aroma, and on the palate is tobacco, a slight minerality and spice with very soft tannins. Sampled this delicious red wine with Keith at In Vino.

Due Risotti Alla Casa Di Eric

My friend Eric Guido has done it again. He's obsessed with Risotto, and I'm so glad. Almost every time he has a new Risotto experiment he calls me to test his new recipes. It's a tough job, but hey... somebody's got to do it. But first... to the wines...

Azienda Agricola Moroder Rosso Conero 2002
Didn't take notes on this but do remember deep balsamic notes with waves of super ripe strawberries, unfiltered with lots of sediment, but a very interesting take on a Montepulciano.

Torrette Les Cretes Valle d'Aoste DOC 2006
Aromas of vanilla and caramel, blending with earth tones and a palate of blue fruits and berries... paired with red, orange, and yellow peppers, beets and radicchio with an unbelievable dipping sauce called Bagna Cauda (ban-ya cow-dah) olive oil warmed slowly for 2 hours with anchovies and garlic, this was amazing.

Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2007
Black cherries, glycerine, plums and blueberry with a slight hint of violets.



Vietti Barbera d'Alba Scarrone 2005 DOC
100% Barbera, from small single vineyard and 60 year old vines, here is a delicious nose of violets, chocolate with cherry pie, vanilla and cinnamon, carrying a nice acidity, and a long smooth finish.



Now to the two delicious Risottos... one was a simple risotto made mainly with Barolo, the other was made with Barolo, but with onions, garlic, herbs, carrots and fresh grapes (I believe that's it... I will try to get more info from Eric and post it asap).



Vina Valoria Rioja 1973
The only non-Italian in the group, this old Tempranillo from the Rioja region of Spain shows ruby colors, aromas of intense barnyard/animal, black cherries, then baked cherries, following by super ripe fruits and cherry candy, long and sexy finish.



Rocca Sveva Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 DOC
Deep ruby with warmer colors around the edge of the glass, along with cherry pie aromas, layered with flavors of rich chocolate, dried fruits, bing cherries, and dark berries. On the palate has a nice full-bodied structure, with notes of hazelnut, a beautiful balance and lasting finish.



Paolo Bea Sanvalentino IGT 2006
From Umbria and made from a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 15% Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Paolo Bea is one of Italy's top producers. Aromas of roses and dry cassis with dark cherries, oak, flowers and spices, closing with a silky smooth finish.



For dessert Eric used a huge wooden cutting board loaded with cheeses like Morbier, Taleggio and Pecorino with black pepper, Prosciutto, Italian Salami and red grapes. Much thanks to Eric for a fun and delicious evening. BTW, check out his site called The V.I.P Table, great talk about food, cooking and wines.

Oh, and I almost forgot the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese with a dollop of 40 year old Balsamic vinegar.

Ciao!

Pecchenino Dogliani Siri d'Jermu (Dolcetto) 2006 DOCG

Thick and opaque with colors of ruby red, this Dolcetto has smoked bacon, cassis and red cherry licorice on the nose.

On the palate a cherry cream pie, with specks of vanilla and white pepper, then notes of root beer, dark fruits, near perfect acidity and healthy chalky tannins.

The 2006 Dogliani Siri d'Jermu (Dolcetto), which gets the full treatment of malolactic fermentation and 6 months of aging on its lees, is an especially structured wine loaded with layers of ripe dark fruit on a sumptuous, richly-textured frame. Beginning with the 2005 vintage, Siri d'Jermu qualifies for the newly-created Dogliani DOCG which producers can use for their high-end Dolcettos. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Brothers Orlando and Attilio Pecchenino run this small property in Dogliani, where they make some of the most powerful, intense wines readers are likely to come across.
Antonio Galloni of Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

An elegant Dolcetto from a selection of Pecchenino's oldest vines, this binds juicy blueberry and and cherry flavors with chalky tannins, a structure that brings focus and length to the wine. It gains depth with air, emphasizing refinement over richness. Impressively concentrated, it will benefit from 3-4 years' cellar time.
Wine & Spirits 93 Points

Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri

Casal Thaulero Montepulciano D'Abruzzo 2006 DOC

Italy •
This Casal Thaulero Montepulciano D'Abruzzo 2006 red wine from Abruzzo is a nice 100% Montepulciano, ruby red in color, very dry, soft aromas with notes of sour berries. A nice deal in the $8 range, it has 12.5% alcohol. photo from Casal Thaulero website.

Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006

©2008 photo by Dave Trieger
Blend is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 is a ruby red, dry, full-bodied wine from Tuscany with ripe red fruit and chocolate on the nose, and a fresh smooth palate with a good finish. 13% alcohol and $7.99.

A Discussion on Italian Terroir with Adolfo Folonari and Cesare Casella

This week at the Italian Culinary Center in New York City I had the pleasure of meeting Adolfo Folonari, co-CEO of Ruffino, who put together a tasting of his wines, and Cesare Casella, currently of Salumeria Rosi, who created the pairing menu.

The Folonari family has been in the wine business since the late 1700's, and bought the Ruffino Vineyards almost 100 years ago, so you can say Adolfo has wine running through his veins. Over the past 50 years they acquired seven small estates, Gretole, Santedame, Montemasso (all 3 in Chianti Classico), Lodola Nuova Estates (in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano), Greppone Mazzi Estate (Brunello di Montalcino), Poggio Casciano Estate (Chianti Colli Fiorentini), and La Solatia Estate (Chianti Colli Senesi).

The first 4 pairings with various Salumi:

Ruffino Chianti Superiore DOCG 2008

From the Poggio Casciano Estate vineyards in Chianti, using choice grapes during the harvest, as per the Superiore and Chianti Classico production standards, and aged for seven months in stainless steel tanks and two additional months in bottle. 75% Sangiovese (Minimum required by DOCG), plus 25% other varieties like Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Superiore rules require yields 10% lower than Chianti Classico. $12.99

Deep ruby colors, aromas of cherries, blue fruits, hints of tree bark and chalk, flavors of red fruits and especially spice on the back end.

Paired nicely with Prosciutto Toscana Grigliato from San Gimignano, a Tuscan ham rubbed with rosemary, black pepper and garlic, then grilled.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

With grapes coming from the Santedame, Montemasso and Gretole Estates in the Chianti Classico area, and a blend of 80% Sangiovese with a 20% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, it is then aged in a combination of oak casks, stainless steel tanks, and concrete vats for two years, with a minimum of three months in bottle. $24.99

Ruby colors with aromas of blue fruits and bacon, ripe cherries on the palate followed by white pepper, spice and tobacco.

Coupled with Prosciutto di Parma, the hind thigh of a hog, rimmed with pure white fat.


Ruffino Santedame Riserva Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

From the Santedame Estate Vineyards near Castellina in the heart of Chianti Classico, this is a beautiful blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino and a 5% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo. Only the best hand selected grapes are used for this single vineyard riserva, fermented in stainless steel, aged in French oak for twelve months with another six months in bottle. $33

Sexy bouquet of violets with intense floral aromas, complex flavors of blackberries, cherry candy, red licorice, smooth tannins with black cherries and cocoa powder on the finish.

Paired with Parmacotta, the floral aromas present in the Riserva make a fine balance to the sweet, cooked ham's brininess.



Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004

Only the best hand picked grapes are selected during several passes to pick bunches at the perfect state of maturation. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for two weeks, further macerated on the skins for 15 days, then aged in oak casks for 24 months. After resting in stainless steel tanks for another six months, the wine was bottled and aged for eight months before release. $79

100% Sangiovese Grosso with flowing aromas of plums, cherries, and barnyard, weaving into animal flavors, expressed by a full body and rich texture, with spice notes, fine tannins, and long chocolate finish.

Paired with Cacciatorino, the snack originally used by Piemontese hunters, but now popular throughout Italy. It's dense texture marbled with pockets of fat nicely work with the bold Brunello's husky demeanor.

After the initial tasting, we moved on to the luncheon where there were four more wines to sample.


Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia IGT 2009

Straw yellow colors, floral notes, kiwi, pear, hints of pineapple


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2005

80% Sangiovese, with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot combination, aged for 36 months, 3 months stainless steel, 24 months in oak casks, 3 months in vats, and at least 6 months in bottle. Violets, plums, spices with herbal notes.

Ruffino Romitorio di Santedame Toscana IGT 2004

60% Colorino, 40% Merlot, this one being my favorite of the day. Aged at least 18 months in oak casks, floral notes, black currants, dried cherry, dates, very complex with sultry earthtones and spices. Finishes beautifully with strawberries and chocolate.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2001

A fine vintage for this with 85% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, aged for 37 months is a well balanced, nicely structured classic Sangiovese Tuscan with ripe tannins and long finish.

Luncheon Menu:

Salumi assortment
Beans and Tuna
Short Ribs with Mushroom Risotto
Vanilla Panna Cotta with Chocolate Hazelnut Tuile

Hugel et Fils Gewurztraminer 2006

Minerals are prevalent on the nose, along with tones of lilac, springtime blossoms, roses and jasmine, under flavors of summer fruit, lychees and hints of pineapple. All combine to make this a seriously delicious Gewurztraminer. Made from 100% Gewurztraminer in the Alsace region of France.

Winemaker's notes:
Producer Background:

Hugel owns a 65-acre estate planted largely to Riesling and Gewürztraminer, with small plots of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir. These vines are placed on the grand cru slopes of Sporen and Schoenenbourg.

The golden rule at Hugel is "The wine is already in the grape". As soon as they arrive at the Hugel premises in the heart of Riquewihr, the grapes are classified according to precise and strict criteria of quality. The presses are filled by gravity, not by pumping. After slow crushing, only the first part of the juice is conserved to merit the famous yellow label. The individuality of each grape variety and of each level of quality is respected.

Vinification:

The harvest began on Sept. 27 in bright sunshine, but after many climatic ups and downs. A heat wave in July was followed by an August that seemed like November, until excellent weather in early September saved the crop. Two days of warm rain just one week before the vintage put everyone in their starting blocks and so set the tone for the harvest. This was a true vintners’ vintage, where rigorous and skillful vinification has been rewarded with success. 2006 has produced some very fine Gewurztraminers.

Generic “Hugel” wines are made exclusively from grapes purchased from growers under long-term contract located in a dozen of the best vineyard sites around Riquewihr. The grapes are transported in small tubs to the presses, which are filled by gravity, without any pumping or other mechanical intervention. After crushing, the must is decanted for a few hours, then fermented in temperature-controlled barrels or vats at 18 to 24°C. The wine is racked just once, before natural clarification that occurs slowly over the winter. The following spring, the wine is lightly filtered before bottling, whereupon the wines are aged in Hugel’s cellars until release.

Soave is Back

Gary Grunner, National Sales-Brand Manager of Cantina di Soave, invited me on a recent Sunday afternoon, to Il Poeta, one of the finest new Italian restaurants in Queens, New York. Three new wines from Veneto were the main event, paired perfectly with cuisine from the same region prepared by Veneto native, Chef Mario DiChiara, and co-hosted by his business partner Luca.


Rocca Sveva Soave Classico 2008 DOC

When I was a younger man, the most famous white wine from Italy was from the Soave region, near Verona. Regional Garganega and Trebbiano grapes were among the finest then and remain so until this day. The first tasting selection, from Cantina di Soave is this very same Soave Classico, a fond reminder of my youth, and proof in my estimation, that Soave has not only made a strong comeback but remains one of Italy's greatest white wines.

This straw colored white wine, made with 100% Garganega grapes, expresses blossoming aromas of fresh fruits, melons, pears, apples and mild cinnamon. A surprising depth of flavor and texture balances very nicely with bright, crisp acidity, and a nutty finish.

Soave Classico proved to be a super match-up with the first two courses, a burrata with arugula and prosciutto, and "sardines in carpione," delicate fish that's fried, then marinated in a saor sauce (vinegar with onions, pine nuts and raisins).


Rocca Sveva Amarone della Valpolicella 2006 DOC

The Amarone Process
The hand-picked clusters are set to dry on "drying racks" for at least 3 months in special temperature- and humidity-controlled lofts. During the drying period, the grapes are affected by "noble rot" or botrytis cinerea. By the time they are ready to undergo maceration and fermentation they will have lost up to 50-60% of their water content. They are then de-stemmed and pressed, and the must is put into small fermenters where it ferments at low temperatures (50°F) for some 25-30 days. When the alcohol reaches two-thirds of its final level, the wine is put into stainless steel tanks at 68°F to complete fermentation. The wine is then matured in oak casks for a minimum of 24 months, followed by an additional twelve months in bottle.

Deep ruby with warmer colors around the edge of the glass, along with cherry pie aromas, layered with flavors of rich chocolate, dried fruits, bing cherries, and dark berries urge you to savor every sip. This full-bodied gold medal winner is the perfect pairing for a hearty meal. On the palate has a nice full-bodied structure, with notes of hazelnut, a beautiful balance and lasting finish. We decanted this wine for over an hour and it opened beautifully— the perfect partner for a Risotto with duck ragu.

Gold medal winner 2008 Vinitaly
Gold Medal and Trophy 2008, 2007, 2006 International Wine Challenge

Rocca Sveva Ripasso di Valpolicella Superiore 2007 DOC

Made from 70% Corvina, and 30% Molinara and Rondinella, and employing a process by which the wine is "re-passed" for 11 to 14 days over the freshly fermented pomace/lees of the grapes used to make Amarone, this lush 2009 International Wine Challenge Gold medal winner, is then further aged for six months in the bottle. The "re-passing" provides increased structure as well as an appealing roundness; 30% of the wine is then matured in oak barriques and 70% in large oak botti for an additional 12-18 months.



The hospitable bouquet is abundant with black fruits, a smoky oakiness, with slight barnyard alongside exotic spiciness. Luscious ripened black cherries and vanilla contrast a slightly floral edge, as a prelude to a smart, smooth and long finish, pairing exquisitely with sirloin steak and mustard sauce, mushrooms and potatoes.

It was clear to all on this particular Sunday afternoon, that the best vineyards in Italy are producing premium but affordable wines. Soave is back with a flavorful vengeance, and Chef Mario and I were happily surprised and excited about the many amazing selections from this rich and fertile region.

Il Poeta is a family owned restaurant featuring classic Italian dishes brought to life with the culinary touches of Chef Mario DiChiara. Fine dining and exceptional service is what you can expect when you visit there. After years of experience as Chef at such restaurants as Harry's Bar (owned by Cipriani in Venice, Italy), Cipriani (NY), and Il Corso, Chef Mario DiChiara and his brother-in-law Luca opened Il Poeta to rave reviews.

Cycling thru Tuscany

Late grapes on the vine
©2006 photo by dave trieger

This photo of a vineyard in San Leonino in Chianti was taken while on a cycling trip thru Tuscany in October, 2006. It was a great way to see the countryside because I could stop whenever I wanted... and when I did stop it was so still and quiet. Actually, there were so many lookout points to choose from, that eventually I had to pick the best of the best... otherwise I'd be late for dinner, and I wouldn't want that to happen. So, I ate and drank my way thru wine country without having to worry about gaining weight... biking 35-40 miles a day was enough to burn away enough calories so it was a wash in the end.

Marchesi de Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2006 DOCG

This Chianti Riserva from the 11th century Frescobaldi vineyards of Rufina is sexy and layered with dark deep, cool ruby colors, fruity aromas of pomegranate and black currant, with exotic notes of leather, vanilla, and a barnyard hint. The palate is complex and runs the gamut from black cherry pie topped with powdered sugar to black plum and raspberries, to spice and cocoa powder to smoke and licorice. Fine tannins are expressed with a long clean finish.

It is made from 90% Sangiovese with small amounts of Malvasia Nera, Colorino, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and is aged 24 months in barrel and 3 months in bottle. Cost is in the $20 range and alcohol content is 13.5%.

Full disclosure: This bottle was a complimentary sample for Vigna Uva Vino from Marchesi de Frescobaldi.

Winery Notes:

GENERAL INFORMATION:

Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Rufina DOCG is one of the historic wines produced at the Castello di Nipozzano. This wine always retains its close relationship with the Castello di Nipozzano terroir.

VINTAGE REPORT:

The 2006 harvest for the Tenute Frescobaldi was completed on October 11. The overall evaluation is very positive, particularly regarding exceptional levels of fruit quality in the areas where the Tenute Frescobaldi are located.Castello di Nipozzano, the standard-bearer of Chianti Rufina DOCG winemaking, experienced even and balanced growing conditions, with normal amounts of rain during July and August.

The year yielded wines of considerable elegance and outstanding ageing potential.Light rains during the summer provided the vines with enough moisture to undergo veraison (change of colour) without problem. Sunny, crisp, dry days in September and October were crucial in developing in the grapes all of the qualities necessary for the production of wines of unsurpassed quality and fine structure.