Italy's Icons and Rising New Stars

On a cold and blustery January Saturday, Italian Wine Merchants hosted a tasting series called Italy’s Icons and Rising Stars, which I attended with both old and new friends. It began as a low-key and reserved afternoon that quickly turned boisterous—complete with exploding glasses, spurting wine and contagious laughter.

Bruno Giacosa Spumante Brut 2004 DOC
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Region: Lombardia

Bruno Giacosa, known more for his Barolo and Barbaresco in the Piedmont region makes this Spumante Brut in the neighboring Lombardy region. Made from 100% Pinot Noir in the traditional Champagne style, fermented in stainless steel followed by secondary fermentation in bottle and hand riddling, the wine ages on the lees for a period of 24 to 30 months prior to release.

Loaded with ripe fruits, showing a dry minerality, citrus notes, a hint of fresh bread and heady floral aromas.

Giuseppe Quintarelli Bianco Secco Ca' del Merlo 2007 IGT
Varietal: Garganega Blend
Region: Veneto

Here we see Quintarelli, a master of wine known for his Valpolicella, Recioto and Amarone, delving into a Bianco Secco, an interesting blend of Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Saorin (the last of which, meaning "flavor" in Veronese dialect, and believed to be a clone of the Tocai grape).

Crisp and full flavors abundant with fresh aromatics of green apple, lemon rind, lychee, honey and minerals, and finishing long and smooth.

Bodega Chacra Pinot Noir Rio Negro Barda 2007
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Region: Patagonia, Argentina

Piero Incisa della Rocchetta hails from one of the great Italian wine families -- the Rocchetta family is responsible for the planting of Sassacaia, and with the release of their first vintage in 1968, was able to convince the wine world of the high quality of Italian wines. In 2004, Piero purchased a vineyard in Patagonia Argentina which is now Bodega Chacra in order to produce Pinot Noir.

Hand destemmed, macerated in cement tanks, then in oak barrels for 11 months, this is a fruit forward, dense and well structured Pinot with aromas of tar, oak and smoke, textured with earthy flavors and a mineral character.



Punica Montessu 2007
Varietal: Carignan Blend
Region: Sardegna

From Giacomo Tachis of Sassicaia fame comes this Super-Sardegnian blend of 60% Carignano, with 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. Fermented in cement vats, aged in French oak barriques for 18 months and finally 12 months in bottle.

This was one of my favorites of the tasting and seems to me like a great value at $32 per bottle. A nose of violets, herbs and white pepper, and a ripe profile of plums, blueberries and even a little peach.



Talenti Rosso di Montalcino 2007
Varietal: Sangiovese
Region: Toscana

Made from grapes harvested from younger Brunello vines, this wine matures in oak barriques for two years and in bottle for one. Aromas of red ripe cherries and animal, with flavors bringing to mind Port wine, plums and cherries.



Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004
Varietal: Sangiovese Grosso
Region: Toscana

Aged in French oak barrels for 3 years before aging in bottle for 12 months. Tar, smoke, oak, chalk, cola, leather and plums, all come together to form a fine classic Brunello.



The good company: David, Sarena, Alicia, Kathy, Robin & Allen.

(Stay tuned... Two more wines to come from this tasting, and more pix.)

Bartolo Mascarello Barbera d'Alba 2007 DOC
Varietal: Barbera d'Alba
Region: Piemonte

Deep ruby colors with complex aromas and palate of ripe cherries, chocolate, violet candies, herbs, coffee, smoked meats.



A&GN Fantino Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi' Nebbiolo Piemonte 1995
Varietal: Nebbiolo
Region: Piemonte

Aged 12 months in stainless steel followed by 12 moths in bottle, ripe black cherries, with a spicy edge and smooth texture.

3rd Flight of Sangiovese/Chianti Blind Tasting

2004 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 14% $20

From the Monsanto - Barberino Val d’Elsa area near Florence, and from grapes of Sangiovese, 90%; Canaiolo and Colorino, 10%, maturation: 18 months in French oak barriques used once, and bottle aging for 3 months.

Barnyard, violets and herbs, dark fruits, ripe black cherries, cedar, smoked meats, prosciutto, with nice balance of acidity and tannins. Midpalate of white pepper and medium to long finish. A beautiful wine with a luscious mouthfeel.



2004 Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 13.5% $30

Resinous with cinnamon, root beer, cola, coffee bean, cherries, fresh on the midpalate, with long cherry finish. From Castelnuovo Berardenga in Tuscany.

2004 Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 13.5% $35

First impression outhouse, but opens to very dark expressive fruits, stylish flavors, bright and warm with nice fresh midpalate and long perfumed finish.

Rubesco Rosso Di Torgiano DOC Lungarotti 2004

Rubesco Rosso Di Torgiano DOC Lungarotti 2004 • Made from 70% Sangiovese and 30% Canaiolo, the blend that is classically indigenous to the Umbrian region, this ruby red wine (from the fantastic 2004 vintage) is aged in oak for 10-12 months and in bottle for another 12. The bouquet starts with red fruits and an earthy/mushroom undertone that opens up with violets and oak. There are cherries on the palate with black fruit, medium tannins and is really a well balanced every day wine. This wine paired wonderfully with, of all things, a Cuban sandwich, but would also go well with a roast, cheese or in a red sauce (to give it a little kick). The good people at The Wine Room introduced me to this wine and also suggested pairing it with pizza. It is 12.5% alcohol and goes for around $15. This one is a hit!

10 good wines for Under $10... wines for the NEW GREAT DEPRESSION

Here is a list of 10 good wines, mostly Italian, that you can get for under $10 a bottle:

Monte Antico Toscano 2004 IGT Italy
Colosi Sicilia Rosso Nero D’Avola 2005
Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2006 Chile
Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT Italy
Bodegas Zabrin Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines 2006 Spain
Casal Thaulero Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2006 DOC Italy
Fattoria di Bibbiani Poggio Vignoso Chianti 2005 DOCG Italy
Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Classico DOCG 2004 (375 ML) Italy
Rocca Delle Macie Rubizzo Sangiovese di Toscana 2006 IGT Italy
Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 Italy

10 good wines for Under $10

Here is a list (from this blog) of 10 good wines, mostly Italian, that you can get for under $10 a bottle:

• Monte Antico Toscano 2004 IGT Italy
• Colosi Sicilia Rosso Nero D’Avola 2005
• Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2006 Chile
• Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT Italy
• Bodegas Zabrin Garnacha de Fuego Old Vines 2006 Spain
• Casal Thaulero Montepulciano D'Abruzzo 2006 DOC Italy
• Fattoria di Bibbiani Poggio Vignoso Chianti 2005 DOCG Italy
• Rocca Delle Macie Chianti Classico DOCG 2004 (375 ML) Italy
• Rocca Delle Macie Rubizzo Sangiovese di Toscana 2006 IGT Italy
• Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 Italy

Black Coyote 2004 Stag's Leap Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon California

Today after work a few of us got together and sampled a really powerful bottle of wine from California. Powerful because it is 15.1% alcohol, but also because it's intensity is almost visible. Called Black Coyote Bates Creek Vineyard 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon... it's 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot and barreled for 19 months in new and used French oak. The color is a unique deep purple with the opacity of ink. On the nose is an intense wave of fruits, dark berries, cherries, even a little hint of apple, and wet hay. On the palate there was a full fruit bomb, high alcohol flavor, chocolate and wood... and a nice long velvety finish. I believe they're already sold out of the 2004, so if you spot a bottle anywhere (it's in the $30-40 range and well worth it), grab it and hold it for a few years. Damn good bottle of wine, Thanks Jordan!

Cereghino Smith Sangiovese Reserve 2004

A little background about Cereghino Smith Sangiovese Reserve 2004 provided by Keith Beavers:

The story goes like this: Fred Smith from the band Television and his wife whose name I cannot remember (note from Dave T. I believe her name is Paula Cereghino) lived on Houston back in the late seventies and eighties. His wife (girlfriend at the time maybe) comes from a wine producing family from Washington state. Her grandfather was a winemaker, and one vintage, he passed away before harvest--so her father took on the responsibility of running the winery. So wine making was in her blood from the get. One day the two of them went to the Brooklyn Terminal Market and bought a bunch of grapes from California and had a de-stemming party in the backyard of their building in Houston. They started having fun making homemade wine, and their friends got into it, too. Their friends Tish and Snooky, who were starting their own line of hair dye called Manic Panic, used to take a bottle of Fred and his wife's wine to clients as presents. Fast forward a decade, and they now live in Bloomington, New York and make wine on a more professional level. They have a line of five or six wines that are mostly blends and have great flavor.

I was introduced to Fred and his wife through a customer who happened into our shop a couple of months ago. This lady walks in wearing ripped up jeans and black, worn Chucks with a CBGB's t-shirt ripped "Flashdance" style and Manic Panic "wild fire" red hair. Her little chihuahua is dressed in a similar shirt, and she is in love with the shop because of the location and how the hood has changed (she has got to be in her sixties). She starts telling me about Fred Smith from Television and how he and his wife make wine upstate and that I should try it. I agree, and she calls him right there on the spot and hands me the phone. So Fred and I have a convo and agree to meet. His wife and him come by the shop, and I try the whole line. This is NYC, East Village, Alphabet City history here. I couldn't not take one or two bottles. The cool thing is the wines are good. You can tell there is some family history of craft in the works here. That and pure passion.

Keith Beavers
http://abcwineco.com/
http://invino-ny.com/
http://evwg.blogspot.com/

Chateau Cadillac Bordeaux 2004

Chateau Cadillac Bordeaux 2004 smooth cherries, nice... first impressions sent via twitter... more to come.

Here's more... made from 70% Merlot with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and a 12.5% alcohol content, this Bordeaux is aged in oak barrels for 12 months on one of the oldest properties in all of Bordeaux. Dark ruby red and medium-bodied with aromas of red berries, licorice, spice and white pepper. On the palate there are flavors of cherries, mocha and vanilla, and cedar finishing with smooth silky tannins. $21.

Chateaux Saint Genes 2004 French Bordeaux tasting notes

©photo by dave trieger


Label reads: Grand Bordeaux Chateau Saint Genes Premieres Cotes de Blaye 2004 Bernard Magrez Proprietor. Grapes: Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a heavy weight ruby bordeaux, with chocolate covered cherries on the nose, and a full fruitiness on the palate. It's rich, balanced and supple and a pure pleasure to drink.

Baltailles Beaujolais 2004 Gamay Village

The Gamay grape is used primarily in the production of Beaujolais wines in France. This Baltailles Beaujolais 2004 is a cloudy light garnet color, probably unfiltered, with a bouquet that at first has a little more funk than I would expect, but transforms on the palate into a silky soft earthiness with high acidity and low tannins. It would be a perfect match for a salad with walnuts and goat cheese and a vinagrette dressing. Tasting provided by Keith B at InVino.

Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT

This Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT is a 100% Sangiovese red wine made from grapes from various locations in Tuscany, Italy. There's barnyard on the nose with black cherry and oak with cinnamon, and mild flavors of fruit and good balance. This is an inexpensive, but decent everyday wine, I believe it was $6.

Marchesi de Frescobaldi Riserva Castello di Nipozzano Chianti Rufina 2004 DOCG

©photo 2008 Dave Trieger
Italy • The grapes are 90% Sangiovese with the remainder a mix of Malvasia nera, Colorino, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the original Chianti regions, Rufina. Dark ruby color, 13% alcohol, not very intense on the nose but aromas are cherry and leather with slight tannins and good acidity and spices. The Frescobaldi family has been around since the 11th century and the story goes Michelangelo exchanged paintings for wine. Pairs well with roasted meats and aged cheeses. This red wine is #57 on the Wine Spectator's Top 100 list for 2007 and received a 91 rating for the 2004 vintage ... that being said, a $15-20 price tag is not a bad deal at all.

Monte Antico Toscano 2004 IGT tasting notes

photo ©2008 by Kristen Trieger
Monte Antico Toscano 2004 IGT • This red wine by Italian wine specialist Neil Empson and winemaker Franco Bernabei is made from 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. Aged in oak barrels for a year and in bottle for 6 months, this ruby red medium weight wine is 12.5% alcohol, on the nose are black cherry, chocolate, spice, earth, leather and plums. It's well balanced and on the palate are spice and cherries. This wine is a great deal at about $10.

Red Wine Blind Tasting

At snooth on Sunday afternoon I participated in a blind tasting of 12 red wines. Led by Greg Dal Piaz of Snooth, all the bottles' labels were covered and we sampled 4 flights of three each. Here they are along with my comments:

Flight 1 (Sangiovese)

2005 Perdroncelli Alto Vineyard Dry Creek valley, CA
color: cool rose; nose: bright cherries, violets, roses; palate: raisins, vanilla

2006 Terra d'oro Amador County, CA
nose: cassis, chocolate; palate: grapefruit rinds, sour cherries

2005 Pietra santa Cienega Valley, CA
color: deep purple; nose: smokey, concentrated not unlike Amarone, intense, violets, cherry syrup, cough drops, and vanilla; palate: red fruits, ripe cherries, white pepper

Flight 2 (Other Italians)

2006 Montevina Amador County Aglianico, CA
color: ruby; nose: vanilla, blueberries; palate: strawberries, blueberries, fresh fruit finish

2006 Bocella Rasott Campi Taurasini, Italy
color: dark ruby opaque; earthy, plastic wrap, Christmas gift wrapping, chemical cherries, sweet and sour cherries

2004 Pietra Santa Dolcetto Cienega Valley, CA
color: opaque inky deep purple; beatiful aromas of clean earth, simple and on palate ripe cherries, wood and green peppers

Flight 3 (Syrah/Shiraz)

2005 Shoo Fly South East Australia
bramble and underbrush on the nose, also hints of earthy blackberries and palate of sweet ripe fruitiness, bubble gum, violets with a candy finish

2006 The Lackey South Australia
nose: red fruits; palate: super ripe blackberries, strawberries, blueberries, smooth and fresh finish

2005 Valley of the Moon Sonoma County, CA
medicinal cherries

Flight 4 (Syrah/Shiraz)

2004 d'Arenberg The Love Grass McLaren Vale, Australia
nose: vanilla and high alcohol at first, but opened to a sweet fruit bomb (in a good way), blueberry, lavender, fruit rind with a finish of white pepper and a smokey undercurrent, refreshing, jammy, balanced

2005 Sixth Sense Lodi County, CA
nose: vegetal, sweet and spicey; palate: vanilla, violets, cherry orange liquore, oak

2005 Toasted Head Dunnigan Hills, CA
pleasing aromas of mild floral tones, preview a palate of soft, balanced and perfectly ripe bing cherries

Realce Bobal Reserva 2004 at Wines From DO Manchuela

The Manchuela region has been an overlooked wine producing area of Spain, but last week I got to experience some of their outstanding wines. Even though they have been making wine there for centuries, it was only in 2000 when they became recognized as a (D.O.) Denomination of Origin.

The first grape you should know about is the Bobal, which really defines the region. It is a grape with medium size bunches, spherical dark blue berries, and generally high in tannins and with medium acidity. Even though the Bobal is very well suited for the production of Rose wines, the first one I'd like to talk about is a red called Realce Bobal Reserva 2004.

Made from 100% Bobal grapes, fermented in stainless steel tanks, then in French and American oak barrels for 18 months before bottling, ruby colors and burnt umber around the glass rim, initial aromas are of stewed fruits with cola and ripe cherries. On the palate intense raisins but as if reduced in a vanilla sauce, supple with spices and fruity texture and nice long finish.

7 Inexpensive but Good Wines

Here are 7 of my most recent favorite inexpensive but good wines.

J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
This Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, California is made from 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petite Sirah, 5% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot and 1% Malbec- quite an intense mix, but it works. Stainless steel fermentation, then 14-16 months in oak casks. Bright reddish purple in color with strong fruity fragrance of cherries cedar and blackberries, and cherry soda, chocolate and vanilla on the mouth. Enjoyed this with a cheeseburger at a new restaurant in Forest Hills by the glass, and it can be found retail at the $20 range. 13.8% alcohol.

Cantina Di Casteggio Oltrepo Pavese Barbera 2005 DOC
This medium weight ruby colored 100% Barbera is unoaked, so there's no wood influence, allowing a nose of pure mild red fruits, a palate of sour cherries, spice, white pepper, and a mix of fragrant herbs. After an hour of decanting the finish was smooth and fleeting, but after 4 hours the finish stretched out nicely. The mild tannins would hold up well to a pork or veal dish, or even barbecue. We are in the $12 range.


Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006
Blend is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 is a ruby red, dry, full-bodied wine from Tuscany with ripe red fruit and chocolate on the nose, and a fresh smooth palate with a good finish. 13% alcohol and $7.99.

Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2006 Chile
This Carmenere from Chile is aged for 8 months in small oak barrels, is a deep purple red, has mild floral aromas and complex fruit flavors including cherry, with spice and vanilla. This is an interesting pick... the flavor profile is unique (it's my first 100% Carmenere)... I haven't seen many around. Found this in the $10 range.

Chateau Grand Moulin 2005 France
This red wine from France is a blend of Syrah and Grenache grapes. Color is clear dark garnet red with cherries, ripe fruit and tar on the nose. Palate has black cherry and white pepper undertones and moderate tannin. It is paired well with warm gruyere gougeres. Not bad by the glass for $9.

Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT
This is a 100% Sangiovese red wine made from grapes from various locations in Tuscany, Italy. There's barnyard on the nose with black cherry and oak with cinnamon, and mild flavors of fruit and good balance. This is an inexpensive, but decent everyday wine, I believe it was $6.

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
This DOCG from Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy is made from 80% Prugnolo Gentile (a Sangiovese clone) and a 20% blend of Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo. 80% of the grapes are aged for two years in Slavonian oak and 20% in French oak. On the nose is cherry, oak, rose and vanilla and on the palate black cherries with moderate tannins and a smooth medium finish. In the $20 neighborhood, this is a good vintage to drink now but you can also cellar it for a few years.

Dinner & Tasting with Eric & Deborah

We were invited to dinner this weekend by my friends Eric & Deborah along with their two beautiful girls, Violet and Dahlia, while Eric put on his chef's hat to make a simple, but delicious made-from-scratch penne alla vodka. Throughout the evening we sampled a broad spectrum of 5 wonderful wines, 1 Italian white, 3 Italian reds and 1 California Cab. Rita and I enjoyed the evening and the company too much to take extensive tasting notes, but I did text myself a few lines. Well, here they are.

Trentino Traminer Aromatico Casato Montfort 2004
Varietal: Gewürztraminer
Region: Trentino
Aged 5 months in steel vats and 3 months in bottle. Good body, with intense aromas of lychee, pineapple, apple, incredibly balanced and smooth, the nose and palate interact very well.

Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano 2007 DOC
Varietal: Montepulciano
Stewed prunes, raisins, ripe cherries, granny smith apples, and spices with a brisk acidity.

Andrea Oberto Barbera d'Alba 2008 DOC
Cherry pie, red berries, blackberries, tobacco, polished.

Feudo di San Nicola Negroamaro 2004 IGT Puglia
Smoky candy, ripe cherries, blueberries, strawberries, and spicy on the finish.



Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
70% form Napa, 30% from Sonoma with a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Violets, lavendar, cassis, blueberries, chewy, blue fruits, oak, balanced, nice acidity, structured tannins. This wine is an excellent fruit forward California Cabernet.

Nine Bordeaux: A Tasting at Snooth

Greg Dal Piaz from Snooth organized a tasting last week to sample nine Bordeaux wines from the 2004, 2005 and 2006 vintages, and below are some of my tasting notes.

2004

Chateau Sociando Mallet Haut-Medoc
Full bodied, animal, barnyard, chocolate covered cherries, cherry liquore, dry leaves, $50.

Chateau Prieure-Lichine Margaux
Vegetal aromas, lilac/violet, mesquite, flavors of wood, bark and licorice, $40.

Chateau Dassault St. Emilion
90% Merlot, blackberry, cherry, berries, vanilla, barbecue sauce, nose shows petroleum, chocolate, flavors of caramel with coffee-like tannins, normally $40 but can be found for as little as $20.

2005

Chateau Mazeris Canon Fronsac
Raspberries, blue fruits, cooked fruits, wax cherry candy, $30.

Chateau Olivier Pessac-Leognan
Muted aromas, mint, mocha, clay (someone mentioned playdough), powdered dry flowers, musk, $40.

Chateau Camensac Haut-Medoc
Petrol, ripe cherries, milk chocolate, and violets, $25.

2006

Chateau Sociando Mallet Haut-Medoc
Minty with cigar smoke, cedar and vanilla, $50

Chateau Camensac Haut-Medoc
Purple fruits, noticeable tannins, some bite, $25

Chateau Prieure-Lichine Margaux
Liked this, sweet and pretty, chalk flavors of blueberry and blackberry, $40

Chateau Le Pey Bordeaux 2004, France

The 2004 Chateau Le Pey Cru Bourgeois is a Bordeaux blend made from 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot. Aged for a minimum of 12 months in French oak barrels.

Deep garnet red in color with a bouquet of ripe red berries, earth, mineral, mint and eucalyptus. On the palate tobacco is present along with nuances of wood and spices supporting a balanced wine with marked tannins.

Silver medals in the Concours des Vignerons Independants 2006 & 2007

Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée: Médoc
Situation géographique: Bégadan

A bargain at under $20.

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG

©photo 2008 by Dave Trieger
This 2004 DOCG from Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy is made from 80% Prugnolo Gentile (a Sangiovese clone) and a 20% blend of Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo. 80% of the grapes are aged for two years in Slavonian oak and 20% in French oak. On the nose is cherry, oak, rose and vanilla and on the palate black cherries with moderate tannins and a smooth medium finish. In the $20 neighborhood, this is a good vintage to drink now but you can also cellar it for a few years. This winner can be found at The Wine Room.