A Discussion on Italian Terroir with Adolfo Folonari and Cesare Casella

This week at the Italian Culinary Center in New York City I had the pleasure of meeting Adolfo Folonari, co-CEO of Ruffino, who put together a tasting of his wines, and Cesare Casella, currently of Salumeria Rosi, who created the pairing menu.

The Folonari family has been in the wine business since the late 1700's, and bought the Ruffino Vineyards almost 100 years ago, so you can say Adolfo has wine running through his veins. Over the past 50 years they acquired seven small estates, Gretole, Santedame, Montemasso (all 3 in Chianti Classico), Lodola Nuova Estates (in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano), Greppone Mazzi Estate (Brunello di Montalcino), Poggio Casciano Estate (Chianti Colli Fiorentini), and La Solatia Estate (Chianti Colli Senesi).

The first 4 pairings with various Salumi:

Ruffino Chianti Superiore DOCG 2008

From the Poggio Casciano Estate vineyards in Chianti, using choice grapes during the harvest, as per the Superiore and Chianti Classico production standards, and aged for seven months in stainless steel tanks and two additional months in bottle. 75% Sangiovese (Minimum required by DOCG), plus 25% other varieties like Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Superiore rules require yields 10% lower than Chianti Classico. $12.99

Deep ruby colors, aromas of cherries, blue fruits, hints of tree bark and chalk, flavors of red fruits and especially spice on the back end.

Paired nicely with Prosciutto Toscana Grigliato from San Gimignano, a Tuscan ham rubbed with rosemary, black pepper and garlic, then grilled.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

With grapes coming from the Santedame, Montemasso and Gretole Estates in the Chianti Classico area, and a blend of 80% Sangiovese with a 20% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, it is then aged in a combination of oak casks, stainless steel tanks, and concrete vats for two years, with a minimum of three months in bottle. $24.99

Ruby colors with aromas of blue fruits and bacon, ripe cherries on the palate followed by white pepper, spice and tobacco.

Coupled with Prosciutto di Parma, the hind thigh of a hog, rimmed with pure white fat.


Ruffino Santedame Riserva Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

From the Santedame Estate Vineyards near Castellina in the heart of Chianti Classico, this is a beautiful blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino and a 5% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo. Only the best hand selected grapes are used for this single vineyard riserva, fermented in stainless steel, aged in French oak for twelve months with another six months in bottle. $33

Sexy bouquet of violets with intense floral aromas, complex flavors of blackberries, cherry candy, red licorice, smooth tannins with black cherries and cocoa powder on the finish.

Paired with Parmacotta, the floral aromas present in the Riserva make a fine balance to the sweet, cooked ham's brininess.



Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004

Only the best hand picked grapes are selected during several passes to pick bunches at the perfect state of maturation. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for two weeks, further macerated on the skins for 15 days, then aged in oak casks for 24 months. After resting in stainless steel tanks for another six months, the wine was bottled and aged for eight months before release. $79

100% Sangiovese Grosso with flowing aromas of plums, cherries, and barnyard, weaving into animal flavors, expressed by a full body and rich texture, with spice notes, fine tannins, and long chocolate finish.

Paired with Cacciatorino, the snack originally used by Piemontese hunters, but now popular throughout Italy. It's dense texture marbled with pockets of fat nicely work with the bold Brunello's husky demeanor.

After the initial tasting, we moved on to the luncheon where there were four more wines to sample.


Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia IGT 2009

Straw yellow colors, floral notes, kiwi, pear, hints of pineapple


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2005

80% Sangiovese, with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot combination, aged for 36 months, 3 months stainless steel, 24 months in oak casks, 3 months in vats, and at least 6 months in bottle. Violets, plums, spices with herbal notes.

Ruffino Romitorio di Santedame Toscana IGT 2004

60% Colorino, 40% Merlot, this one being my favorite of the day. Aged at least 18 months in oak casks, floral notes, black currants, dried cherry, dates, very complex with sultry earthtones and spices. Finishes beautifully with strawberries and chocolate.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2001

A fine vintage for this with 85% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, aged for 37 months is a well balanced, nicely structured classic Sangiovese Tuscan with ripe tannins and long finish.

Luncheon Menu:

Salumi assortment
Beans and Tuna
Short Ribs with Mushroom Risotto
Vanilla Panna Cotta with Chocolate Hazelnut Tuile

Consorzio Vino Chianti Reception and Dinner at Maialino Restaurant

On Monday October 25, 2010, The Consorzio Vino Chianti presented an exclusive reception and dinner at Maialino Restaurant, the newest restaurant from Danny Meyer's Union Square Hospitality Group, Maialino is a neighborhood Roman trattoria overlooking Gramercy Park. The dinner was more informal compared with the panel discussions and tastings earlier, and was a perfect end to the day.

The Menu


Salumi & Antipasti
Carciofini Fritti
Insalata Misticanza

Primi
Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe
or
Bombolotti all' Amatriciana

Secondi
Pollo alla Diavolo
or Porchetta

Dolce
Mixed Selection

The Wines


Badia di Morrona Il Sodi Del Paretaio Chianti DOCG 2009
85% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, 10 months aged in stainless steel vats. Violet, ripe cherries, coffee, cocoa, mint with floral finish.


Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Gabbiano DOCG 2009
90% Sangiovese, 10% other red grapes from the area, 3 months of aging in stainless steel vats, a bouquet of super ripe cherries, red fruits, cocoa, and sage with an herbal infused honey. Freshness is apparent and a fine, mellow character displayed with an overall balance.

Melini Borghi d'Elsa Chianti DOCG 2009
85% Sangiovese Grosso with 15% Canaiolo, Malvasia, Trebbiano, Merlot, 3 months aging in stainless steel, more floral undertones mingling with forest floor, a bit of toasted nuts, ripe cherries and raspberries.

Piccini Chianti DOCG 2009
95% Sangiovese with 5% Ciliegiolo, fresh fruity cherries, red berries, soft tannins, smooth.



Ruffino Chianti 2009 DOCG
75% minimum Sangiovese and the balance Canaiolo and Colorino, 4 months in stainless steel and 2 months in bottle. Aromas of lavender and fruity undertones with a hints of gelato, and flavors of plums leading to a spicy laced finish.

Melini San Lorenzo Fattorie Melini Chianto DOCG 2008
85% Sangiovese Grosso with 15% Canaiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in stainless steel 4-5 months, raspberries and cassis with floral waves of violets, forest floor.


Ruffino Chianti Superiore 2008 DOCG
A minimum of 75% Sangiovese and other varieties including Canaiolo and Colorino, the best grapes are carefully selected from the harvest for the Superiore, aged in stainless steel vats for 7 months then three months in bottle. Ruby coloring in the glass with violet around the rim, aromas of black cherries, plums, along with flavors reflecting spices and black pepper, a long soft finish.

... and with dessert we sampled two delicious Vin Santo:


Badia Di Morrona VinSanto Del Chianti 2006 DOC
70% Trebbiano, 15% Malvasia Bianca, 15% Colombana, after the harvest, grapes are selected and hung from the ceiling until January, then aged in caratelli (small kegs) for 3 years, beautiful golden colors with apricot and almond bouquet.

Castelvecchio Chiacchierata Notturna VinSanto Del Chianti 2003 DOC
70% Trebbiano and 30% Sangiovese (that's right, Sangiovese), grapes are selected and hung from the ceiling until December, then aged in caratelli for 5 years, and 3 months in bottle before release. Intense perfumed aromas of dried fruits with honey and cocoa.

Il Nero Di Casanova Della Spinetta 2005 IGT

Italy • This 95% Sangiovese with 5% Colorino from Terricola, Tuscany is a medium to full bodied, deep burgundy color, has cherries on the nose and fruity bubble gum, palate is luscious apple cherry on back of tongue.

3rd Flight of Sangiovese/Chianti Blind Tasting

2004 Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 14% $20

From the Monsanto - Barberino Val d’Elsa area near Florence, and from grapes of Sangiovese, 90%; Canaiolo and Colorino, 10%, maturation: 18 months in French oak barriques used once, and bottle aging for 3 months.

Barnyard, violets and herbs, dark fruits, ripe black cherries, cedar, smoked meats, prosciutto, with nice balance of acidity and tannins. Midpalate of white pepper and medium to long finish. A beautiful wine with a luscious mouthfeel.



2004 Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 13.5% $30

Resinous with cinnamon, root beer, cola, coffee bean, cherries, fresh on the midpalate, with long cherry finish. From Castelnuovo Berardenga in Tuscany.

2004 Castellare di Castellina Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 13.5% $35

First impression outhouse, but opens to very dark expressive fruits, stylish flavors, bright and warm with nice fresh midpalate and long perfumed finish.

Marchesi de Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2006 DOCG

This Chianti Riserva from the 11th century Frescobaldi vineyards of Rufina is sexy and layered with dark deep, cool ruby colors, fruity aromas of pomegranate and black currant, with exotic notes of leather, vanilla, and a barnyard hint. The palate is complex and runs the gamut from black cherry pie topped with powdered sugar to black plum and raspberries, to spice and cocoa powder to smoke and licorice. Fine tannins are expressed with a long clean finish.

It is made from 90% Sangiovese with small amounts of Malvasia Nera, Colorino, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and is aged 24 months in barrel and 3 months in bottle. Cost is in the $20 range and alcohol content is 13.5%.

Full disclosure: This bottle was a complimentary sample for Vigna Uva Vino from Marchesi de Frescobaldi.

Winery Notes:

GENERAL INFORMATION:

Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Rufina DOCG is one of the historic wines produced at the Castello di Nipozzano. This wine always retains its close relationship with the Castello di Nipozzano terroir.

VINTAGE REPORT:

The 2006 harvest for the Tenute Frescobaldi was completed on October 11. The overall evaluation is very positive, particularly regarding exceptional levels of fruit quality in the areas where the Tenute Frescobaldi are located.Castello di Nipozzano, the standard-bearer of Chianti Rufina DOCG winemaking, experienced even and balanced growing conditions, with normal amounts of rain during July and August.

The year yielded wines of considerable elegance and outstanding ageing potential.Light rains during the summer provided the vines with enough moisture to undergo veraison (change of colour) without problem. Sunny, crisp, dry days in September and October were crucial in developing in the grapes all of the qualities necessary for the production of wines of unsurpassed quality and fine structure.

Marchesi de Frescobaldi Riserva Castello di Nipozzano Chianti Rufina 2004 DOCG

©photo 2008 Dave Trieger
Italy • The grapes are 90% Sangiovese with the remainder a mix of Malvasia nera, Colorino, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the original Chianti regions, Rufina. Dark ruby color, 13% alcohol, not very intense on the nose but aromas are cherry and leather with slight tannins and good acidity and spices. The Frescobaldi family has been around since the 11th century and the story goes Michelangelo exchanged paintings for wine. Pairs well with roasted meats and aged cheeses. This red wine is #57 on the Wine Spectator's Top 100 list for 2007 and received a 91 rating for the 2004 vintage ... that being said, a $15-20 price tag is not a bad deal at all.

Castello Monsanto Chianti Classico Il Poggio Riserva 2006

Located in Monsanto-Barberino Val d'Elsa, Florence, produced mainly with grapes of Sangiovese (90%) but with a blend of Colorino and Canaiolo (10%), swirling floral aromas of violets mingle with cigar box and plummy cola, attractive flavors of black cherries, dark berries and cassis, detailed by beckoning hints of bacon. Aged in French oak tonnaux for 18 months and another 12 months in bottle.

The floral beauty of this wine is just overwhelming.

Sampled at the Gambero Rosso "Tre Bicchieri" event at the Metropolitan Pavilion in NYC.

Campochiarenti Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG Riserva 2006

From Colli Senesi in Tuscany, this blend of hand picked 85% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino and 2% Merlot grapes is fermented in glazed cement basins, aged for 20 months in oak barrels, then refined in bottle for at least 4 months.

Compact textures with aromas of mild spices and dried violets, supported on the palate by blueberry, vanilla, and sweet wood mingled with powdered cherries, and an opulent, lingering finish.

Sampled this at Vino 2010 Italian Wine Week at the Waldorf Astoria.

2007 La Mozza I Perazzi Morellino di Scansano DOC

Mario Batali, Joe and Lidia Bastianich have partnered to create this wonderful Morellino di Scansano. The La Mozza Vineyard is near Scansano, a village in southern Tuscany, southwest of Montalcino.

Morellino, being very similar to Sangiovese, reflects intense resinous and spicy aromas, namely raisins and white pepper, with flavors of cocoa, sour cherries, hints of licorice, sawdust, and malt.

85% Morellino (Sangiovese), 4% Syrah, 4% Alicante, 4% Ciliegiolo, 3% Colorino, 75% of the wine is aged in French barrique (1 & 2 year-old) for 10 months.

Winemaker notes:
I Perazzi is named after the fruit trees that grow on the estate and bear a pear-like fruit, which is depicted on the label. In Tuscany, the Sangiovese grape is known by several names, from Chianti to Brunello to Morellino, depending on where it is grown. Morellino means "little blackish one" because of the dark color of the grape. In the hot Maremma zone, the grapes are exposed to a more Mediterranean climate with enough heat to tone down Sangiovese's signature acidity, producing juicier fruit and a jammy flavor. I Perazzi was created to be unlike most other Morellinos, which see little or no time in oak. The blend of this wine is more expressive and better demonstrates the potential of the terroir. In the Morellino di Scansano, rich, ripe black cherry and berry flavors blend into pleasant tartness. Tannins are soft at first, then firm up in the lengthy, balanced finish.

Had this by the glass at The Spotted Pig in the West Village (also partially owned by Batali).

Montevertine Toscana Rosso 2003 IGT

From Radda in Chianti, Tuscany, Montevertine's Martino Manetti produces this blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino, with malolactic fermentation in cement vats, and aged for 24 months in slavonian oak barrels, then 6 months in bottle.

Showing a light bodied gem with ruby red colors, an intense dark and wonderful bouquet of raspberry, dried figs, cigar wrapper, sour cherries, tea, and leather. On the palate ripe black cherry, pepper, textured layers and velvety super long finish.

Many thanks to my friend Allen who gave me this bottle for helping him move on a very rainy night a few years back.

Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2008 DOCG

Made with a blend of 90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo and 3% Colorino grapes, vinified in stainless steel for 20 days before aging in small wooden barrels for 18 months, then in bottle for 3 months before release. Ruby red colors in the glass, with aromas of powerful spices, cedar and dark fruit. Notes of tobacco, cedar, cinnamon and black sour cherry with healthy tannins painting the palate, and a good long finish. Wine Spectator rated this bottle a 92 and its under $20.

Ruffino Chianti Superiore 2008 DOCG

A minimum of 75% Sangiovese and other varieties including Canaiolo and Colorino, the best grapes are carefully selected from the harvest for the Superiore, aged in stainless steel vats for 7 months then three months in bottle.

Ruby coloring in the glass with violet around the rim, aromas of black cherries, plums, along with flavors reflecting spices and black pepper, a long soft finish belies the 12.99 pricetag.

Three Italians to Bring to Thanksgiving Dinner. Sofia Loren, Robert DeNiro and Mario Balotelli?!?!?!

Well, you could try, but here are three Italians that might be easier to find... and will definitely work with your next Thanksgiving Dinner.

'IL' Spr!z... it's an Apertivo modeled after the Venetian Spritz recipe blending semi-sparkling wine with blood orange. The flavors and aromas are natural bold blood orange with herbal hints. This will pair perfectly at the beginning of the day with cured meats and cheeses.


Castello Di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG
Estate grown blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino & Canaiolo hand picked, stainless steel fermentation, aged in French oak barriques for 18 months followed by three months in bottle. Nice acidity and tannins, ruby colors in glass, with exotic aromas of cherry and spice, wood and dark fruits. Full body with tobacco notes and black cherry flavors, and a good long finish, this will work well with Turkey Dinner along with the following Rocca.

Rocca Sveva Ripasso Valpolicella Superiore DOC
70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Molinara blend is "re-passed" for 11 to 14 days over the freshly fermented grapes that have made the Amarone, giving it added structure, depth and roundness. 30% of the wine is aged in oak barrels while 70% is also aged separately in large oak botti for 12-18 months before bottle aging for 6 months. Dark ruby colors with deep aromas of vanilla, black cherry and cassis, Dark fruits on the palate and floral notes and a smooth long finish.