More Wines for Thanksgiving

I'd like to thank Kristen and her good friends for helping me taste this flight of wine picks for Thanksgiving. The wines were from California, Italy, France and New Zealand. (Also thank you to Kristen for photo above.)

Chateau Julien Gewurztraminer 2010 Carmel Valley, California
Light golden colors, clean citrus notes of grapefruit, flowers, honey and jolly rancher green apple, the mild and simple palate shows spice and nice acidity. Gewurztraminer is versatile and will pair well with Turkey dinner, especially if your stuffing is spicy, also may be used before dinner with cheese or after dinner with dessert.

Winemaker notes:
Cold fermented using Steinberger Yeast, known for its slow fermentation, allows the winemaker the ability to maintain natural varietal flavor and a slight residual sugar. While semi-dry in flavor, this wines slightly higher acidity balances the residual sugar for a refreshing, lighter style of wine.

Rasciatano Rose, Puglia Italy
Made with 100% Montepulciano grapes pressed softly then fermented partly in stainless steel vats at a temperature of 13-15° (C) and partly in second and third passage barriques, followed by aging in stainless steel vats for 4-6 months and 4 months in bottle. Rose petal colors, aromas of sour cherry, and peach, on the palate dry, slightly metallic with good acidity.

Dino Torti Forza Inter Pino Nero Oltrepo Pavese 2008 Italy
Also soft pressed, complex aromas of almonds, fruits and flowers, flavors of nutty, apple and pear, dry but satisfying.

Maison Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages, 2009 France
The grapes (Gamay) are gently crushed, an extended maceration of 12-20 days gets you the extraction of color and tannins, then aged in French oak for 8 to 10 months. On the nose notes of tar and forest floor, fruit forward on the palate of black sour cherry, pepper, an attractive minerality and holiday spice, good finish. Great deal at $10.

Te Muna Road Vineyard Craggy Range Pinot Noir, 2009, New Zealand
From the region of Martinborough, 100% Pinot Noir grapes are fermented in open-top tanks followed by aging in 33% new French oak barriques for 10 months. Rose red, medium weight but at the same time velvety, tree bark, smoky earth and violets, dry but sweet, beautiful balancing act, plums. Nice long layered finish. SRP $40. A majority of the tasters really enjoyed this one.

St. Francis Winery Sonoma County Old Vines Zinfandel, 2008 California
The average age of the vines here are 80-100 years old, and actually is 89% Zin, and the rest a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Mourverdre, Carignane, Syrah and Petite Sirah. The grapes are fermented then aged in new American oak for 12-15 months. Complex, underbrush, cigar box, cherry vanilla, raspberry, plums, pepper and spice. For the price ($17) very nice.

Luccarelli Pazzia Primitivo di Manduria Old Vines 2007 Puglia, Italy
Deep rich purple ruby colors show such an opacity as to preview what's to come, namely rich cherries with prunes and spices on top of vanilla and chocolate nuances. Very fruit forward but with an Italian flair. Beautiful. $40.

Arnaldo Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni 2005 DOCG Montefalco Italy
Made with the best grapes of 100% Sagrantino, aged 2 years in French Oak Barrique and a minimum of 6 months in bottle. What is immediately apparent is the very deep dark opaque colors, with strong and vibrant vanilla concentrates on the nose, laid over violets, earth and spices. Flavors of ripe fruit woven with spices and vanilla, great aging potential.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving!!!!!!

Italy's Icons and Rising New Stars

On a cold and blustery January Saturday, Italian Wine Merchants hosted a tasting series called Italy’s Icons and Rising Stars, which I attended with both old and new friends. It began as a low-key and reserved afternoon that quickly turned boisterous—complete with exploding glasses, spurting wine and contagious laughter.

Bruno Giacosa Spumante Brut 2004 DOC
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Region: Lombardia

Bruno Giacosa, known more for his Barolo and Barbaresco in the Piedmont region makes this Spumante Brut in the neighboring Lombardy region. Made from 100% Pinot Noir in the traditional Champagne style, fermented in stainless steel followed by secondary fermentation in bottle and hand riddling, the wine ages on the lees for a period of 24 to 30 months prior to release.

Loaded with ripe fruits, showing a dry minerality, citrus notes, a hint of fresh bread and heady floral aromas.

Giuseppe Quintarelli Bianco Secco Ca' del Merlo 2007 IGT
Varietal: Garganega Blend
Region: Veneto

Here we see Quintarelli, a master of wine known for his Valpolicella, Recioto and Amarone, delving into a Bianco Secco, an interesting blend of Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Saorin (the last of which, meaning "flavor" in Veronese dialect, and believed to be a clone of the Tocai grape).

Crisp and full flavors abundant with fresh aromatics of green apple, lemon rind, lychee, honey and minerals, and finishing long and smooth.

Bodega Chacra Pinot Noir Rio Negro Barda 2007
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Region: Patagonia, Argentina

Piero Incisa della Rocchetta hails from one of the great Italian wine families -- the Rocchetta family is responsible for the planting of Sassacaia, and with the release of their first vintage in 1968, was able to convince the wine world of the high quality of Italian wines. In 2004, Piero purchased a vineyard in Patagonia Argentina which is now Bodega Chacra in order to produce Pinot Noir.

Hand destemmed, macerated in cement tanks, then in oak barrels for 11 months, this is a fruit forward, dense and well structured Pinot with aromas of tar, oak and smoke, textured with earthy flavors and a mineral character.



Punica Montessu 2007
Varietal: Carignan Blend
Region: Sardegna

From Giacomo Tachis of Sassicaia fame comes this Super-Sardegnian blend of 60% Carignano, with 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. Fermented in cement vats, aged in French oak barriques for 18 months and finally 12 months in bottle.

This was one of my favorites of the tasting and seems to me like a great value at $32 per bottle. A nose of violets, herbs and white pepper, and a ripe profile of plums, blueberries and even a little peach.



Talenti Rosso di Montalcino 2007
Varietal: Sangiovese
Region: Toscana

Made from grapes harvested from younger Brunello vines, this wine matures in oak barriques for two years and in bottle for one. Aromas of red ripe cherries and animal, with flavors bringing to mind Port wine, plums and cherries.



Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004
Varietal: Sangiovese Grosso
Region: Toscana

Aged in French oak barrels for 3 years before aging in bottle for 12 months. Tar, smoke, oak, chalk, cola, leather and plums, all come together to form a fine classic Brunello.



The good company: David, Sarena, Alicia, Kathy, Robin & Allen.

(Stay tuned... Two more wines to come from this tasting, and more pix.)

Bartolo Mascarello Barbera d'Alba 2007 DOC
Varietal: Barbera d'Alba
Region: Piemonte

Deep ruby colors with complex aromas and palate of ripe cherries, chocolate, violet candies, herbs, coffee, smoked meats.



A&GN Fantino Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi' Nebbiolo Piemonte 1995
Varietal: Nebbiolo
Region: Piemonte

Aged 12 months in stainless steel followed by 12 moths in bottle, ripe black cherries, with a spicy edge and smooth texture.

Wines of Cloudy Bay, Marlborough New Zealand

Marlborough, New Zealand's South Island seems to have a handle on Sauvignon Blanc. I recently had a chance to sample a few along with a Chardonnay, Riesling and a Pinot Noir. Cloudy Bay’s thoroughly engaging winemaker Sarah Burton was our guide at an outdoor dinner featuring their wares at The Elizabeth Street Gallery, an outdoor antique garden in New York City’s Nolita, with beautifully matching cuisine by Silkstone.

Sarah is one of three winemakers at Cloudy Bay (teamed with Tim Heath and Nick Lane) in Blenheim, Marlborough, New Zealand. “No traffic lights, no people and 1 coffee shop.” She’s been at Cloudy bay for 2 years and it’s just celebrated it’s 25th year anniversary. They’ve come a long way and their focus is on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. “Marlborough is a family region, where animals are important, people are close knit.” Their wines are about science and art but especially about people.

2011 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc
This one is close to her heart, she and her team spent hours of fine tuning, they take it seriously, and they’re proud of it. I especially loved this one. Sarah says, “It reminds me of Christmas, with a vibrancy, fresh fruit, texture, herbs, capsicum, grapefruit, a palate that’s smooth, creamy, with a crisp finish. We slipped in a 2% controlled barrel fermentation which adds fleshiness, aged it 4 months in old barrels with some barrels from as far back as 1986 so they’re neutral, with no oak influences and more aeration than influence from the barrel. The point is to get flavors from the grape directly into the bottle. It’s all about climate... it’s the cool nights that give fresh vibrancy and acidity that make it special.”

Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2006
From the same vineyards as above, left to ripen a bit longer, they press the grapes but play around with the solids and the juice to give more texture and weight later on, then it’s 100% barrel fermented with 10% new oak and 90% really old (neutral) French oak. Complex, showing individual personality, and as this wine opens, the changes are apparent and amazing. Savory, with orange blossom characters, some citrus notes, but more nuttiness, creaminess from the barrel fermentation. The fermentation takes place using only wild yeast, followed by a partial malolactic fermentation, left in barrel for 18 months, then another 18 months in bottle. 2 words: Minerality & Texture!

Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2009
The next big varietal coming out of Marlborough is Pinot Noir. Early on in NZ these grapes traditionally were planted on the plains and now planted on slopes which improved quality of fruits. Pinot Noir is gently handled, hand picked, then fermented for 2 weeks with natural yeasts, the use of “whole bunch” makes spicy green characters from the stems. 2 more weeks on skins impart more color and tannins, press off to 40% new oak barrel and 60% 2-3 year old oak, all French, and aged for 8-10 months, Complex, fruity, raspberry, strawberry, funk, spicy, chocolate, expressive, smooth, soft, supple tannins with minerality. I also get hints of white pepper, aromas of red licorice, a good long finish, and a clean earthiness.

The Wines of Campania: Donna Chiara Wines at Il Gattopardo

photo above by Alan Watts from Eat Italian

Last week Ilaria Petitto from Donna Chiara Winery guided us through an evening of tastings from the Campania region of Italy at Il Gattopardo, a fantastic Campanian restaurant in NYC owned by the legendary Gianfranco Sorrentino. The winery is located in Montefalcione, a small town in Avellino, where her family has been since 1885. Winemaking is a family tradition, tied closely to the land, where typical white wines like Greco di Tufo, Falanghina, Fiano di Avellino are well structured and long aging, as well as tasty reds like Aglianico and Taurasi. Ilaria pointed out "It is said that Taurasi is the Barolo of the south, but in fact can be better, after all Aglianico is a much more ancient grape than Nebbiolo."

Here are my tasting notes along with the wonderfully paired menu:

Donna Chiara Sante Spumante Brut IGT
a sparkling 100% Falanghina, made using the Martinotti lungo method of fermentation to maintain traditional flavors of the region, fine perlage (smaller, more numerous bubbles), floral aromas, fresh fruit, citrus, minerality and a tropical bouquet.

Paired with arancini di risotto con piselli, mozzarella e sugo di vitelli, bruschetta di fiocco di burrata e basilico.

Donna Chiara Falanghina Beneventano IGT
Fermented for 40 days, straw yellow colors, toasty, pineapple, buttery smooth, even toned, beautiful full bodied, good minerality and acidity and long aging potential.


Donna Chiara Fiano d'Avellino DOCG
2 month fermentation using wild yeasts, vulcanic soils giving layered texture, late harvest imparts an intense ripeness, showing in the aromatics of dried fruit, pear, apple, mild acidity, smooth and long finish.

Both paired with parmigiano di zucchini con provola e salsa al pomodoro.


Donna Chiara Aglianico IGT 2008
No oak touches this one, aged 6 months in bottle, light, fruit aromas, a palate of sour raspberry, glycerine, blackberry, and sour cherries linger on the finish.



Donna Chiara Irpinia 2008 DOC
6 months in French oak, using wild yeasts, structure & body, non-filtered, touch of oak (2nd and third usage barrels not so aggressive). Medium to full body, cherries, prunes, spice, glycerine, raspberry. Charles Scicolone, (a passionate oak-hater) commented on how these reds did not exhibit much oak)

Both reds paried with paccheri alla genovese napoletana


Donna Chiara Taurasi 2007 DOCG
12 months in French barrique, non filtered, ruby violet colors, bouquet of beautiful raspberry and blackberry aromas, with chocolate undertones, ending with a delicious long finish.

Carre d'agnello arrosto con patate e spinaci saltati.


Greco di Tufo DOCG
Apricot, summer fruits, pear lemon rind, pineapple and a fresh finish.

Pastiera

Campania is truly a diverse region with lots to offer. I suggest you try to experience some of their wonderful foods and wines here in the Big Apple or on your next trip to... Campania.

For another perspective on the event see Charles Scicolone On Wine

Colleccion Vivanco 4 Varietals Dinistia Vivanco

Another tasting entry from La Rioja Wine Seminar at Astor Center, this one is a red made from 70% Tempranillo, 15% Graciano, 10% Garnacha and 5% Mazuelo-- all fermented separately in French oak vats. Aged for 24 months in French oak barrels. Color is a deep rose red with a floral nose of violets and cherries. On the palate is oak, toast, flower petals and cherries.

Vertical Tasting of 3 Chateau Rauzan-Segla in New Chateau Baccarat Glasses

Baccarat's presentation of their beautifully designed crystal wine glasses was matched only by the vertical tasting of 3 vintages of Chateau Rauzan-Segla Gran Cru Classe-Margaux.

The new design of the Chateau Baccarat glass collection successfully unleashes the full potential of the wines. The new shape works this way, the wide base prevents alcohols from overpowering the aromatics of the wine, the closed angle allows the the aromas to fill the glass when swirling, and the "vertical chimney" redirects and consolidates the aromas.

The first test was a comparison between the Baccarat glass and a common Bordeaux wine glass, and I have to admit the wines' attributes were more apparent from the former.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2006 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, aged in 50% French oak barrels for 18 months.
Clean colors of warm ruby, aromas of violets, raspberry, hints of leather, tobacco and candied fruit and caramel countered by flavors of spice with a vegetal edge, slightly tight tannins, white pepper with a warm mouth feel.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2001 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
63.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33.5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, aged in 50% French oak barrels for 18 months.
Classic Bordeaux style, darker ruby colors, ripe cherries and floral aromas accented by violets and licorice, on the palate there's a meaty and spicy tang combining with chalk, pepper and earth, echoes of ripe cherries and raspberry followed by a smart balance and long finish.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2000 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, aged in 60% new oak barrels for 18 months.
Deep blackberry ruby colors, beautiful aromas colored by pastel and dried flowers (violet), chocolate and vanilla with flavors of black fruits, cassis, glycerine and spice. Beautifully balanced, smooth and wonderful finish.

7 Inexpensive but Good Wines

Here are 7 of my most recent favorite inexpensive but good wines.

J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
This Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, California is made from 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petite Sirah, 5% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot and 1% Malbec- quite an intense mix, but it works. Stainless steel fermentation, then 14-16 months in oak casks. Bright reddish purple in color with strong fruity fragrance of cherries cedar and blackberries, and cherry soda, chocolate and vanilla on the mouth. Enjoyed this with a cheeseburger at a new restaurant in Forest Hills by the glass, and it can be found retail at the $20 range. 13.8% alcohol.

Cantina Di Casteggio Oltrepo Pavese Barbera 2005 DOC
This medium weight ruby colored 100% Barbera is unoaked, so there's no wood influence, allowing a nose of pure mild red fruits, a palate of sour cherries, spice, white pepper, and a mix of fragrant herbs. After an hour of decanting the finish was smooth and fleeting, but after 4 hours the finish stretched out nicely. The mild tannins would hold up well to a pork or veal dish, or even barbecue. We are in the $12 range.


Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006
Blend is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. Rocca Delle Macie Campomaccione Morellino Di Scansano DOC 2006 is a ruby red, dry, full-bodied wine from Tuscany with ripe red fruit and chocolate on the nose, and a fresh smooth palate with a good finish. 13% alcohol and $7.99.

Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere 2006 Chile
This Carmenere from Chile is aged for 8 months in small oak barrels, is a deep purple red, has mild floral aromas and complex fruit flavors including cherry, with spice and vanilla. This is an interesting pick... the flavor profile is unique (it's my first 100% Carmenere)... I haven't seen many around. Found this in the $10 range.

Chateau Grand Moulin 2005 France
This red wine from France is a blend of Syrah and Grenache grapes. Color is clear dark garnet red with cherries, ripe fruit and tar on the nose. Palate has black cherry and white pepper undertones and moderate tannin. It is paired well with warm gruyere gougeres. Not bad by the glass for $9.

Straccali Sangiovese Di Toscana 2004 IGT
This is a 100% Sangiovese red wine made from grapes from various locations in Tuscany, Italy. There's barnyard on the nose with black cherry and oak with cinnamon, and mild flavors of fruit and good balance. This is an inexpensive, but decent everyday wine, I believe it was $6.

Fattoria Del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
This DOCG from Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy is made from 80% Prugnolo Gentile (a Sangiovese clone) and a 20% blend of Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo. 80% of the grapes are aged for two years in Slavonian oak and 20% in French oak. On the nose is cherry, oak, rose and vanilla and on the palate black cherries with moderate tannins and a smooth medium finish. In the $20 neighborhood, this is a good vintage to drink now but you can also cellar it for a few years.

Man of Numanthia

Recently, I had the pleasure of attending a dinner at Geoffrey Zakarian’s The Lambs Club in NYC with Estate Director Manuel Louzada, from Bodega Numanthia, to introduce three different vintages of Termes, Numanthia and Termanthia.

Born in Portugal, Louzada lived in Spain for ten years, where he developed a love for the sea as well as a more introspective way of looking at life. He studied agriculture, engineering, and agronomy and eventually returned to Portugal where he set to work making Port wine. In 1999 he moved to Argentina to make sparkling wines for Bodegas Chandon where the focus is on detail.

His three year plan, turned into nine, and he eventually moved to Numanthia in Spain in 2008. “Character and concentration are the trademarks of the Toro region wines, and we want to be truthful to soul of the wines,” notes an enthusiastic Louzada.

Numanthia was founded in 1998, and in 2006 the partners sold to Moet Hennessey. Some of the uniqueness of Toro wines is rooted in the fact that some of its vines are 60 to 200 years old.

I asked Manuel, how his experience with Port and Champagne influenced his winemaking…

“The influence of Port is about character -- it’s about power,” says Louzada. “It’s about trying to understand the massive strength of nature. When you taste Port wine for the first two years, I can assure you it’s not a very pleasant sensation, because of the alcohol, because of the amount of tannins, because of the fruitiness that seem overwhelming. What makes the big difference is the development of understanding of those powerful details.”

“Champagne on the other hand is the opposite. It’s how a single 1%, 2%, 3% of the most delicate wine makes such a big difference, so it’s about small details; it’s how the small percentages change the character of a wine. Blending it was a beautiful exercise, because when you taste base wines, whatever you have in thebase wine, good or bad, is going to be multiplied by a thousand because of the carbonic. So I had a lot of fun learning about, and making sparkling.”

“When blending Termanthia I had to choose between 22 or 23 barrels -- deciding which of the 20 I’m going to use-- there anything more detailed than that? You have to be able to figure out how to get to the picture you have in your head.”

Tinta de Toro

The Spaniards of the region call it Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo). A typical Tempranillo will usually display a full, muscular body and a viscosity with dark purple colors woven with aromas of black currants, violets, licorice and caramel. The bouquet may blend into a palate of plums and dark chocolate, all working to create a soft but supple wine with a long dusty finish... the better ones are a very nice balance of tannins & acidity.

A Quick Study of the 3 Vintages

The Termes 2007 was a warm vintage with elegant and delicate tones, while the 2008 Termanthia was a more traditional vintage with a beautiful combination of fresh fruitiness and tannic structure and concentration, with 2009 presenting yet another warm vintage concentration, highlighting extremely soft tannins. Louzada explains that some wines can be drinkable upon release but can be equally palatable in 30 years.

Tasting Notes and Pairings

Termes 2009

The first up is the Termes 2009... 100% hand harvested, 4 months in stainless steel tanks, then aged in French oak barrels for 14-16 months. (The 2008 was expressly fresh fruit, while the 2009 was slightly warmer vintage like 06, 03 with a level of intensity, and lots of character). Aromas of raspberry, strawberry, fruity, sweet lush tannins, lively vibrant fruit character. nice structure, toasted, cedar, layered juicy texture on palate. Paired beautifully with Beef Carpaccio with Piquillo Pepper, Egg and Jamon Serrano, delicate nuances, which rounds out the tannins. SRP $30


Numanthia 2007

Numanthia 2007, 100 year old vines, 18 months in French oak, more concentration, more complexity in the fruit, more aging, 100% new oak, a bit toastier and spicier, so you can feel the intensity of power and remarkable balance. On the palate, dark chocolate, cassis and spice. Paired with Veal Chop, Soubise, Summer Squash. SRP $60


Termanthia 2008

"Termanthia 2008 is a the expression of a single plot that is 120-140 year old vines, and explosion of fruit fresh cherries, like a bomb, complex so everything that we do has to be the most delicate winemaking technique to try to dominate that force, that strength of nature. Hand de-stemmed, crushed by foot, twice thru new barrels." Paired with Lamb Loin with Stuffed Piquillo Peppers and Eggplant. Can be aged for 30 years. SRP $200

Bargetto Winery

Earlier this month while in Monterey, California I had the pleasure of visiting the Bargetto Winery Tasting Room, right on Cannery Row. Billy Norton was my excellent wine guide and took me through the following 5 wines, 1 white and 4 reds.

Bargetto Viento Vineyard Monterey County Gewerztraminer 2011
Clear straw colors the glass, aromas of apricot, ripe grapefruit, mango and lychee, while the palate is an intense blend of green apple and citrus. Crisp acidity and long thoughtful finish.  $15





Bargetto Monterey County Sangiovese 2012
Aromas of spice, cinnamon, potpourri, vanilla and pine, flavors of dark fruit, licorice, cherries, black pepper and earthy finish.

Bargetto Tuxedo Red 2011
A really pretty blend of Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, and Refosco, with additional contributions from their signature La Vita blend of Sirah, Zinfandel and Merlot. Named after Tuxedo, the Winery's mascot cat, this blend is aged in new & neutral French, American and Hungarian oak for 18-36 months. Aromas of violets, rosewater and barnyard, on the palate cassis, blue fruits and leather, beautiful bright acidity and soft tannins. Enjoyed this immensely, great as an everyday wine. This was one of my favorite bottles and a bargain at $18.

Bargetto Monterey County Petit Sirah 2012
Aged in 30% new and 70% neutral American and French oak for 24 months. Dark fruits, cherries, chocolate covered raisins, toasted oak. Nice balance of chewy tannins and acidity. $22

Bargetto Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon 2011
Sourced from Peter Martin Ray vineyard, aged in oak for 18 months. Sweet ripe cherries, red and black ripe fruits, blackberry contrasting with a slight vegetal hint of red bell pepper and tobacco. Full bodied, complex and well balanced. $48

Instituto Grandi Marchi Tasting

On October 25th at The New York Public Library The Instituto Grandi Marchi presented their “Premium Brands”. The Institute, composed of 17 of Italy’s most renowned wine producers (Biondi Santi Spa, Michele Chiarlo, Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari, Pio Cesare, Tenuta San Guido, Cà del Bosco, Umani Ronchi, Carpenè Malvolti, Lungarotti, Masi, Mastroberardino, Alois Lageder, Rivera, Jermann, Donnafugata, Marchesi Antinori, Tasca D’Almerita) hosted a full day of wine tasting in collaboration with the Masters of Wine, the world’s most elite wine society. The producers were represented by Augusto Boffa from Pio Cesare, Raffaelle Boscaini from Masi, Piero Antinori from Antinori, Giovanni Folonari from Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari, Sebastiano de Corato from Rivera, Jose Rallo from Donnafugata, Giuseppi Tasca from Tasca d'Almerita. Hosting the panel was Charles Curtis MW, Head of North American Wine Sales Christie's, New York, and representing the new media was Gregory Dal Piaz from Snooth.


Each producer made a pitch describing their vineyards history, combining tradition with new technologies, diverse high quality Italian wines and new marketing direction.

The current President Piero Antinori pointed out that Italians in general do not like "groups", but this one is composed of competitors who are also friends... friends with a common bond of terroir, history, tradition, art, and vineyards hundreds of years old. He said, "Each bottle should share all these qualities with the drinker".

Here are a few of my tasting notes:

Masi Costasera Amarone Classico 2006
70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Molinara, 2 years in oak, 4 months in bottle, deep violet colors, delicious cherry pie aromas, dark waves of chocolate and coffee.

Tenuta Tignanello 2007 IGT
80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, aged in new oak barriques after fermentation until December, blended and aged in barriques for a year, each barrique was individually tasted before bottle aging for another year. Black cherries pervade the palate with ripe fruits, concentrated aromas, blackberries, toast and chocolate... complex and sexy.

Biondi-Santi Tenuta Greppo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2003
100% Sangiovese Grosso, 3 years in oak barrels, at least 4 months in bottle, aromas of sweet violets and roses, rosewater, sour cherries, structured tannins, great long finish.

Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido 2007 DOC
855 Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, aged in French oak barrels for 2 years and an additional 6 months in bottle, deep ruby colors, a marked intensity, beautifully balanced with fragrant violet aromas and persistent blue fruits, full bodied flavors with balanced tannins.

Donnafugata Ben Rye Passito di Pantelleria DOC Sicilia
Made from Zibibbo (Moscato d'Alessandria) grapes, aged in stainless steel tanks for 4 months then in bottle for 6 months, amber yellow colors, summer fruits, sweet dried figs, and a long honey finish.

Rivera Il Falcone Castel Del Monte Riserva 2005 DOC
70% Nero di Troia, 30% Montepulciano, aged 12-14 months in oak, 1 year in bottle, ruby red colors, chocolate, ripe cherries, and forest floor, supple and textured

Tasca d'Almerita Rosso Del Conte 2005 Sicilia
A blend of mostly Nero d'Avola and other red grapes from the estate, 18 months aged in barrel, six in bottle, deep purple colors, licorice, spice, while fruit comes through on the impressive finish.

A Discussion on Italian Terroir with Adolfo Folonari and Cesare Casella

This week at the Italian Culinary Center in New York City I had the pleasure of meeting Adolfo Folonari, co-CEO of Ruffino, who put together a tasting of his wines, and Cesare Casella, currently of Salumeria Rosi, who created the pairing menu.

The Folonari family has been in the wine business since the late 1700's, and bought the Ruffino Vineyards almost 100 years ago, so you can say Adolfo has wine running through his veins. Over the past 50 years they acquired seven small estates, Gretole, Santedame, Montemasso (all 3 in Chianti Classico), Lodola Nuova Estates (in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano), Greppone Mazzi Estate (Brunello di Montalcino), Poggio Casciano Estate (Chianti Colli Fiorentini), and La Solatia Estate (Chianti Colli Senesi).

The first 4 pairings with various Salumi:

Ruffino Chianti Superiore DOCG 2008

From the Poggio Casciano Estate vineyards in Chianti, using choice grapes during the harvest, as per the Superiore and Chianti Classico production standards, and aged for seven months in stainless steel tanks and two additional months in bottle. 75% Sangiovese (Minimum required by DOCG), plus 25% other varieties like Canaiolo Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Superiore rules require yields 10% lower than Chianti Classico. $12.99

Deep ruby colors, aromas of cherries, blue fruits, hints of tree bark and chalk, flavors of red fruits and especially spice on the back end.

Paired nicely with Prosciutto Toscana Grigliato from San Gimignano, a Tuscan ham rubbed with rosemary, black pepper and garlic, then grilled.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

With grapes coming from the Santedame, Montemasso and Gretole Estates in the Chianti Classico area, and a blend of 80% Sangiovese with a 20% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. After fermentation in stainless steel tanks, it is then aged in a combination of oak casks, stainless steel tanks, and concrete vats for two years, with a minimum of three months in bottle. $24.99

Ruby colors with aromas of blue fruits and bacon, ripe cherries on the palate followed by white pepper, spice and tobacco.

Coupled with Prosciutto di Parma, the hind thigh of a hog, rimmed with pure white fat.


Ruffino Santedame Riserva Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006

From the Santedame Estate Vineyards near Castellina in the heart of Chianti Classico, this is a beautiful blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot, 5% Colorino and a 5% combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo. Only the best hand selected grapes are used for this single vineyard riserva, fermented in stainless steel, aged in French oak for twelve months with another six months in bottle. $33

Sexy bouquet of violets with intense floral aromas, complex flavors of blackberries, cherry candy, red licorice, smooth tannins with black cherries and cocoa powder on the finish.

Paired with Parmacotta, the floral aromas present in the Riserva make a fine balance to the sweet, cooked ham's brininess.



Ruffino Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004

Only the best hand picked grapes are selected during several passes to pick bunches at the perfect state of maturation. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for two weeks, further macerated on the skins for 15 days, then aged in oak casks for 24 months. After resting in stainless steel tanks for another six months, the wine was bottled and aged for eight months before release. $79

100% Sangiovese Grosso with flowing aromas of plums, cherries, and barnyard, weaving into animal flavors, expressed by a full body and rich texture, with spice notes, fine tannins, and long chocolate finish.

Paired with Cacciatorino, the snack originally used by Piemontese hunters, but now popular throughout Italy. It's dense texture marbled with pockets of fat nicely work with the bold Brunello's husky demeanor.

After the initial tasting, we moved on to the luncheon where there were four more wines to sample.


Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia IGT 2009

Straw yellow colors, floral notes, kiwi, pear, hints of pineapple


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2005

80% Sangiovese, with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot combination, aged for 36 months, 3 months stainless steel, 24 months in oak casks, 3 months in vats, and at least 6 months in bottle. Violets, plums, spices with herbal notes.

Ruffino Romitorio di Santedame Toscana IGT 2004

60% Colorino, 40% Merlot, this one being my favorite of the day. Aged at least 18 months in oak casks, floral notes, black currants, dried cherry, dates, very complex with sultry earthtones and spices. Finishes beautifully with strawberries and chocolate.


Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2001

A fine vintage for this with 85% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, aged for 37 months is a well balanced, nicely structured classic Sangiovese Tuscan with ripe tannins and long finish.

Luncheon Menu:

Salumi assortment
Beans and Tuna
Short Ribs with Mushroom Risotto
Vanilla Panna Cotta with Chocolate Hazelnut Tuile