Tenuta Luce Della Vite, Toscana

Tenuta Luce Della Vite, is a brand started in the 1990's by two wine visionaries, Robert Mondavi and Vittorio Frescobaldi who were never worried about "worlds colliding". If anyone knew how to combine old world and new, it was this duo. They collaborated on Luce, the first wine made in Montalcino blending Sangiovese and Merlot.

I recently had the pleasure of tasting a cross section of their wonderful vintages.

All were a blend of 50% Merlot & 50% Sangiovese, aged in French oak: one third new, one third 1 year old and one third 2 years old, then aged for an average of 18 months before bottle release.

Here is a mix of descriptors from tasting notes to freeform word association:

2012: black fruits, dry, ripe cherry, smoked oak, licorice and spices, ripe tannins.

2010: deep ruby colors, vibrant aromas of violets, blue fruits, on the palate blueberry & blackberry gripping tannins but silky

2008: blue fruits, toasted wood, ripe cherry and spicy white pepper, gripping tannins but with good acidity.

2006: gorgeous to lay down licorice 

2002: clay, violets, smooth tannins, blackberry, licorice, tar, balsamic, chewy

2000: beautiful aromas flowers even tempered smooth blue fruits ripe cherry 

1998: ruby colors with rust around rim, complex aromas blending vanilla and caramel, while flavors are clean showing apricot and ripe peach with berries and a sparking balanced finish.

1995: ruby rust colors, sweet floral aromas sweetly oozing caramel and vanilla maple syrup, and a balsamic edge doing a dance with confectioners sugar.

Valsan 1831 Noviembre de Finca El Monegrillo 2006, Spain

From Manchuela, Spain where the popular red grape is usually Tempranillo, here is a tasty blend of 60% Shiraz with 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 14 months in French oak Allier barrels of varying cooperages, with different degrees of toast and stave sizes.

Deep garnet colors in the glass with aromas of dark fruit, blackberry pie and mint along with a toasted earthy edge. Nice rounded tannins and good acidity along with flavors of caramel, underbrush, anise and pepper. A long mature finish leaves the senses satisfied and wanting more.

Tenute Silvio Nardi

The Nardi family, starting with Francesco in 1893 who emigrated from Italy to the US and returned to Umbria two years later with his new plow invention, the “Voltarechhia”, is tied to the earth.

The next generation found his son Silvio buying estates in three Montalcino locations, the Casale del Bosco estate in 1950, Manachiara in 1962, and finally the Bibbiano estate in 1970. He also was one of the founders of the Brunello di Montalcino Wine Consortium.

Silvio’s daughter Emilia, president of the Winery since 1990, was influenced by the wines of Bordeaux and has focused on terroir, clonal research and phenological ripeness in order to improve the quality of the wines. All told there are 36 vineyards and 25 different kinds of soils and altitudes. She employed enologists to study the soil and positions of plants, and the use of many modern techniques.


At a recent tasting at Aldea in NYC I had the opportunity to meet Emilia and sample some of her wonderful wines from Brunello, paired with equally great cuisine... here are my tasting notes.





Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2007 $70


A blend of the best hand harvested Sangiovese Grosso grapes of the Manachiara and Casale del Bosco estates, aged for 30 months in French Allier barriques and large Slavonian oak, then a minimum of 12 months in bottle. Deep ruby color, with nose of violets, spice, smoked meats, leather, and on the palate sour cherry, cedar, and green pepper. Good acidity and tannins in balance with a long finish.



Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino Manachiara 2006 $107


From 45 year old vines this single vineyard Brunello demonstrates intense use of wood in the 12 months in French Allier barriques and 18 months in old Slavonian oak barrels, followed by at least a year in bottle. One bottle = 1 vine. Garnet colors, aromas of ripe fruit and spice, while on the palate is candied cherry, and floral notes with a nice acidity and finish.



Tenute Silvio Nardi Rosso di Montalcino 2010 $27


Sangiovese Grosso grapes from the Casale del Bosco estate make up this Rosso fermented in stainless steel for 15 days, aged in used casks for 6 months and 4 months in bottle. Enjoyed this very much. The 2010 vintage was a great one and it shows here, can’t wait for the Brunellos. Deep ruby colors, this was a shining star for me with bing cherry, red fruits, even some strawberry on the nose and a palate of red fruits and spice that grows with time.



Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2006 $70


Also a blend of the best hand harvested Sangiovese Grosso grapes of the Manachiara and Casale del Bosco estates, aged for 12 months in French Allier barriques and 12 months in large Slavonian oak botte, then a minimum of 6 months in bottle. Grapes are from the best 15 to 20 year old vines.
Ruby colors warmer colors around rim of glass, intense aromas of spice, leather, and earth and a palate of red fruits and a smooth balance of acidity and tannins. What a great finish.

Romano Dal Forno Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006

One of the top Amarone producers in the famed Veneto and inspired by Giuseppi Quintarelli, Romano drastically lowered it's vine yields resulting in rich, expressive and dense wine. The classic blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes is partially dried resulting in an intensity of flavor, texture and aromatics and ultimately making some of the best Amarones in the world.

With deep colors of dark ruby, colored by brooding aromas of sweet raspberry, strawberry, and a viscous and plummy texture. On the palate fragrant smoked meats offset by bing cherry, dark chocolate, and tobacco. Very nice acidity and silky tannins.

A bottle generally goes for about $400, but I sampled this at The Vias Portfolio tasting last week.

Vertical Tasting of 3 Chateau Rauzan-Segla in New Chateau Baccarat Glasses

Baccarat's presentation of their beautifully designed crystal wine glasses was matched only by the vertical tasting of 3 vintages of Chateau Rauzan-Segla Gran Cru Classe-Margaux.

The new design of the Chateau Baccarat glass collection successfully unleashes the full potential of the wines. The new shape works this way, the wide base prevents alcohols from overpowering the aromatics of the wine, the closed angle allows the the aromas to fill the glass when swirling, and the "vertical chimney" redirects and consolidates the aromas.

The first test was a comparison between the Baccarat glass and a common Bordeaux wine glass, and I have to admit the wines' attributes were more apparent from the former.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2006 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, aged in 50% French oak barrels for 18 months.
Clean colors of warm ruby, aromas of violets, raspberry, hints of leather, tobacco and candied fruit and caramel countered by flavors of spice with a vegetal edge, slightly tight tannins, white pepper with a warm mouth feel.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2001 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
63.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33.5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, aged in 50% French oak barrels for 18 months.
Classic Bordeaux style, darker ruby colors, ripe cherries and floral aromas accented by violets and licorice, on the palate there's a meaty and spicy tang combining with chalk, pepper and earth, echoes of ripe cherries and raspberry followed by a smart balance and long finish.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2000 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, aged in 60% new oak barrels for 18 months.
Deep blackberry ruby colors, beautiful aromas colored by pastel and dried flowers (violet), chocolate and vanilla with flavors of black fruits, cassis, glycerine and spice. Beautifully balanced, smooth and wonderful finish.

A Revisit of the Marchesi de Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2006 DOCG

The last time I tasted this vintage of the Nipozzano was over two years ago and it's really interesting to see how it has changed, or... stayed the same.

Back then there were "fruity aromas of pomegranate and black currant, with exotic notes of leather, vanilla, and barnyard." This time on the nose is black fruit and violet, mint and hazelnut. Overall the aromas now are as intense as before but a bit nuttier.

The palate in 2009 was "complex and runs the gamut from black cherry pie topped with powdered sugar to black plum and raspberries, to spice and cocoa powder to smoke and licorice". The powdered sugar notes are gone but now I get blackberry, raspberry, cinnamon, licorice, green bell pepper and chocolate.

The tannins are fine and so is the finish. The price I paid for the bottle in 2009 was about $20 and I found this bottle last week for $17 at Deegan's in Richmond Hill, a very good price for this wine.

See the 2009 post.

Il Borro Lamelle Chardonnay 2006 IGT

The first time I tried this wine in 2009, this Chardonnay from the Ferragamo family's Tuscan vineyards, Il Borro had a pale yellow color... now after a few years in cellar it's a deeper golden. The fruity rich aromas of apple and peach are still present with notes of floral & lemon, but the oak has mellowed considerably. Flavors of pear and slight vegetal notes under citrus layers of grapefruit.

 Finishes long but smoothly.

Notes - The Chardonnay grapes for ‘Lamelle’ are carefully selected from vineyards within the Il Borro Estate in San Giustino Val d’Arno in Arezzo. The hand harvested grapes are immediately transferred to the winery and sorted manually. 50% of the wine is fermented in new French oak barriques & 50% in stainless steel for about 10 days.


Man of Numanthia

Recently, I had the pleasure of attending a dinner at Geoffrey Zakarian’s The Lambs Club in NYC with Estate Director Manuel Louzada, from Bodega Numanthia, to introduce three different vintages of Termes, Numanthia and Termanthia.

Born in Portugal, Louzada lived in Spain for ten years, where he developed a love for the sea as well as a more introspective way of looking at life. He studied agriculture, engineering, and agronomy and eventually returned to Portugal where he set to work making Port wine. In 1999 he moved to Argentina to make sparkling wines for Bodegas Chandon where the focus is on detail.

His three year plan, turned into nine, and he eventually moved to Numanthia in Spain in 2008. “Character and concentration are the trademarks of the Toro region wines, and we want to be truthful to soul of the wines,” notes an enthusiastic Louzada.

Numanthia was founded in 1998, and in 2006 the partners sold to Moet Hennessey. Some of the uniqueness of Toro wines is rooted in the fact that some of its vines are 60 to 200 years old.

I asked Manuel, how his experience with Port and Champagne influenced his winemaking…

“The influence of Port is about character -- it’s about power,” says Louzada. “It’s about trying to understand the massive strength of nature. When you taste Port wine for the first two years, I can assure you it’s not a very pleasant sensation, because of the alcohol, because of the amount of tannins, because of the fruitiness that seem overwhelming. What makes the big difference is the development of understanding of those powerful details.”

“Champagne on the other hand is the opposite. It’s how a single 1%, 2%, 3% of the most delicate wine makes such a big difference, so it’s about small details; it’s how the small percentages change the character of a wine. Blending it was a beautiful exercise, because when you taste base wines, whatever you have in thebase wine, good or bad, is going to be multiplied by a thousand because of the carbonic. So I had a lot of fun learning about, and making sparkling.”

“When blending Termanthia I had to choose between 22 or 23 barrels -- deciding which of the 20 I’m going to use-- there anything more detailed than that? You have to be able to figure out how to get to the picture you have in your head.”

Tinta de Toro

The Spaniards of the region call it Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo). A typical Tempranillo will usually display a full, muscular body and a viscosity with dark purple colors woven with aromas of black currants, violets, licorice and caramel. The bouquet may blend into a palate of plums and dark chocolate, all working to create a soft but supple wine with a long dusty finish... the better ones are a very nice balance of tannins & acidity.

A Quick Study of the 3 Vintages

The Termes 2007 was a warm vintage with elegant and delicate tones, while the 2008 Termanthia was a more traditional vintage with a beautiful combination of fresh fruitiness and tannic structure and concentration, with 2009 presenting yet another warm vintage concentration, highlighting extremely soft tannins. Louzada explains that some wines can be drinkable upon release but can be equally palatable in 30 years.

Tasting Notes and Pairings

Termes 2009

The first up is the Termes 2009... 100% hand harvested, 4 months in stainless steel tanks, then aged in French oak barrels for 14-16 months. (The 2008 was expressly fresh fruit, while the 2009 was slightly warmer vintage like 06, 03 with a level of intensity, and lots of character). Aromas of raspberry, strawberry, fruity, sweet lush tannins, lively vibrant fruit character. nice structure, toasted, cedar, layered juicy texture on palate. Paired beautifully with Beef Carpaccio with Piquillo Pepper, Egg and Jamon Serrano, delicate nuances, which rounds out the tannins. SRP $30


Numanthia 2007

Numanthia 2007, 100 year old vines, 18 months in French oak, more concentration, more complexity in the fruit, more aging, 100% new oak, a bit toastier and spicier, so you can feel the intensity of power and remarkable balance. On the palate, dark chocolate, cassis and spice. Paired with Veal Chop, Soubise, Summer Squash. SRP $60


Termanthia 2008

"Termanthia 2008 is a the expression of a single plot that is 120-140 year old vines, and explosion of fruit fresh cherries, like a bomb, complex so everything that we do has to be the most delicate winemaking technique to try to dominate that force, that strength of nature. Hand de-stemmed, crushed by foot, twice thru new barrels." Paired with Lamb Loin with Stuffed Piquillo Peppers and Eggplant. Can be aged for 30 years. SRP $200

Chateau Leoville Poyferre St. Julien 2003

The world of wine has been good to me. It's allowed me to meet interesting people with broad tastes and vastly different backgrounds. Ray O., after over a year of following my blog, recently took a trip from his hometown in Austin Texas to the Big Apple. We met for dinner at a small French BYOB called La Sirene, and Ray brought a bottle of Chateau Leoville Poyferre St. Julien 2003. He had originally bought a case to commemorate the birth of his 2nd son, and I thought it was very generous of him to show up with this wonderful Bordeaux blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc.

First up are the amazing aromas, the impression of clay and wet soil is so present right out of the bottle, with cassis and violets floating up from the ground. The deeply opaque purple colors translate onto the palate as delicious ripe cherry, paired with Christmas spices, accompanying floral notes and verdant black fruit. Velvety tannins and perfect balance make this wine an incredible masterpiece with a silky smooth and extremely long finish. Thank you, Ray!

Wine Advocate
I have had this wine three times out of bottle, rating it 97 once and 98 twice. It is a colossal success and a potential legend in the making. Its saturated, dense inky/blue/purple color offers up notes of crushed rocks, acacia flowers, blueberries, black raspberries, and creme de cassis. A synthesis of power and elegance, this multi-layered wine has spectacular concentration, sweet but high tannin, and low acidity A stunning effort that showcases this legendary terroir, it is a brilliant, brilliant success. The quintessential Leoville Poyferre? Anticipated maturity: 2009-2030. Score: 98. —Robert Parker, April 2006.

Wine Spectator
Pure cassis on the nose. Impressive. Full-bodied, thick and powerful, with loads of fruit and big, velvety tannins. Goes on for minutes on the palate. Huge wine. Very, very impressive. This is one of the big surprises of the vintage. Best after 2012. 19,165 cases made. Score: 95. —James Suckling, March 31, 2006.

Wine Enthusiast
A huge, opulent wine that packs sweet, rich tannins and spicy fruit. In the midst of all this decadence, though, is a kernel of tannic dryness. This estate, long the weakest of the three Lèoville wines, is now back in top form. Score: 93. —Roger Voss, May 01, 2006.

Wines of Cloudy Bay, Marlborough New Zealand

Marlborough, New Zealand's South Island seems to have a handle on Sauvignon Blanc. I recently had a chance to sample a few along with a Chardonnay, Riesling and a Pinot Noir. Cloudy Bay’s thoroughly engaging winemaker Sarah Burton was our guide at an outdoor dinner featuring their wares at The Elizabeth Street Gallery, an outdoor antique garden in New York City’s Nolita, with beautifully matching cuisine by Silkstone.

Sarah is one of three winemakers at Cloudy Bay (teamed with Tim Heath and Nick Lane) in Blenheim, Marlborough, New Zealand. “No traffic lights, no people and 1 coffee shop.” She’s been at Cloudy bay for 2 years and it’s just celebrated it’s 25th year anniversary. They’ve come a long way and their focus is on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. “Marlborough is a family region, where animals are important, people are close knit.” Their wines are about science and art but especially about people.

2011 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc
This one is close to her heart, she and her team spent hours of fine tuning, they take it seriously, and they’re proud of it. I especially loved this one. Sarah says, “It reminds me of Christmas, with a vibrancy, fresh fruit, texture, herbs, capsicum, grapefruit, a palate that’s smooth, creamy, with a crisp finish. We slipped in a 2% controlled barrel fermentation which adds fleshiness, aged it 4 months in old barrels with some barrels from as far back as 1986 so they’re neutral, with no oak influences and more aeration than influence from the barrel. The point is to get flavors from the grape directly into the bottle. It’s all about climate... it’s the cool nights that give fresh vibrancy and acidity that make it special.”

Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2006
From the same vineyards as above, left to ripen a bit longer, they press the grapes but play around with the solids and the juice to give more texture and weight later on, then it’s 100% barrel fermented with 10% new oak and 90% really old (neutral) French oak. Complex, showing individual personality, and as this wine opens, the changes are apparent and amazing. Savory, with orange blossom characters, some citrus notes, but more nuttiness, creaminess from the barrel fermentation. The fermentation takes place using only wild yeast, followed by a partial malolactic fermentation, left in barrel for 18 months, then another 18 months in bottle. 2 words: Minerality & Texture!

Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2009
The next big varietal coming out of Marlborough is Pinot Noir. Early on in NZ these grapes traditionally were planted on the plains and now planted on slopes which improved quality of fruits. Pinot Noir is gently handled, hand picked, then fermented for 2 weeks with natural yeasts, the use of “whole bunch” makes spicy green characters from the stems. 2 more weeks on skins impart more color and tannins, press off to 40% new oak barrel and 60% 2-3 year old oak, all French, and aged for 8-10 months, Complex, fruity, raspberry, strawberry, funk, spicy, chocolate, expressive, smooth, soft, supple tannins with minerality. I also get hints of white pepper, aromas of red licorice, a good long finish, and a clean earthiness.

Macari Merlot Estate 2008

Music has the magical ability to transport you to a particular time and place. I'm sure more than a few of you would agree that wine holds the same magic, and for me this particular wine charmed me right back to childhood.

In the glass I see clear ruby colors but with a semi-thick opacity and good intensity, clean on the nose but with a spicy and vegetal bent, cut to hints of resinous dried fruit and red licorice... or to be more exact... Twizzlers (my favorite afternoon double feature treat!).

Dry on the palate, and tart acidity showing red fruits, eucalyptus and even a trace of olives (I'm bicycling through Tuscany in 2006...sigh.)

Okay enough reminiscing, back to the present: medium body, spicy and vegetal, with a good medium to long (and soft) finish (my adult heart feels carefree and happy) A good Merlot @ $21 SRP.

Macari Wines are on Long Island's North Fork.

Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

From Chile's Puente Alto area, this clear deep ruby red wine wafts light aromas of earth, barnyard and a mild gaminess, while the palate displays a dryness with medium acidity, soft to medium tannins and full body, flavors of blueberry, spice, black fruits, smoke, toast and red and black fruit. Medium finish with spices lingering and very good, retails for about $75.

This wine was part of a tasting at my Level ll Intermediate Certificate WSET class in Wine & Spirits last weekend at the International Wine Center.

Fattoria di Felsina-Berardenga Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva 2007 DOCG

Back in 2006, when I took a cycling trip through Tuscany, I spent a few days in the quiet countryside of Castelnuovo Berardenga, where Sangiovese reigns. The Felsina tradition of exploring the full potential of that noble grape is expressed in this aromatic and complex, but balanced red wine. And this being a Riserva, a moniker given to only the best of vintages, harvested by hand, aged in small and medium oak barrels for 12-18 months and in bottle for 6-10 months.

Rich and aromatic, with spices, tobacco and coffee on the nose, an underlying floral freshness, hints of cappuccino, chocolate and vanilla laid over caramel, red berries and varnished wood on the back of the palate. Finely structured with an opulent quality.

Sampled at the Gambero Rosso "Tre Bicchieri" event at the Metropolitan Pavilion in NYC.

I didn't have a useable photo of the 2007, so I took one of a 2006 I had in my stock (above left).

Label photo on right contributed thanks to Eric Guido at Gambero Rosso Event.

Castello Monsanto Chianti Classico Il Poggio Riserva 2006

Located in Monsanto-Barberino Val d'Elsa, Florence, produced mainly with grapes of Sangiovese (90%) but with a blend of Colorino and Canaiolo (10%), swirling floral aromas of violets mingle with cigar box and plummy cola, attractive flavors of black cherries, dark berries and cassis, detailed by beckoning hints of bacon. Aged in French oak tonnaux for 18 months and another 12 months in bottle.

The floral beauty of this wine is just overwhelming.

Sampled at the Gambero Rosso "Tre Bicchieri" event at the Metropolitan Pavilion in NYC.

Feudo Maccari Nero d'Avola ReNoto 2006 Sicily

This Nero d'Avola & Syrah blend shows deep violet colors with a floral signature on the nose, woven with fruity blackberry preserve, black plum, black pepper and smoke.

Flavors of ripe cherry, a tangy balsamic sweetness and lingering dark chocolate on the finish supported by silky and soft tannins and a vibrant acidity.

Tried this by the glass at Accademia di Vino on 64th Street and Third Avenue in NYC.

Castelli Martinozzi Brunello di Montalcino 2006 DOCG

Made from one of my favorite varietals, Sangiovese Grosso, this Brunello is aged a minimum 36 months in French or Slavonian oak barrels, and in the bottle for a minimum of 4 months. Painted with colors of deep rose, complex and delicious aromas of rhubarb pie, dried fig and caramel, with a hint of underbrush. Following through with verdant flavors of black plum, violets, dried cherry, and rose petals and ending with a lingering finish of black currant and dark chocolate.

Campochiarenti Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG Riserva 2006

From Colli Senesi in Tuscany, this blend of hand picked 85% Sangiovese, 8% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino and 2% Merlot grapes is fermented in glazed cement basins, aged for 20 months in oak barrels, then refined in bottle for at least 4 months.

Compact textures with aromas of mild spices and dried violets, supported on the palate by blueberry, vanilla, and sweet wood mingled with powdered cherries, and an opulent, lingering finish.

Sampled this at Vino 2010 Italian Wine Week at the Waldorf Astoria.

Bressia Profundo 2006 Argentina

OMG. What a powerful first impression?! This wonderful red reminds me why I love wine so much.

From Mendoza, Argentina the Bressia family produces this blend of 50% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 10% Syrah. Spending 10 months in French and American oak barrels, then aging in bottle for 12 months, this beauty shows dark ruby with purple undertones coloring the glass, with aromas of cinnamon, strawberry, blackberry, caramel, and chocolate. On the palate sensuous waves of nutty vanilla coming from the oak barrels, flowing over hints of tobacco, and jammy, lush red cherries. Sumptuously textured and revealing a complex and memorable finish.

Avignonesi Toscana Rosso 2006 IGT

From Montepulciano this ruby red SuperTuscan blend of 40% Prugnello Gentile (Sangiovese), 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot brings bright red fruits, ripe plums, coca-cola, prunes, blueberry, spices, pepper, smooth and balanced.

Albino Armani Foja Tonda (Casetta) Vallagarina 2006 IGT

Foja Toda or Casetta is a rare grape from Trentino that the Armani family expertly produces. It is perfumed with ripe cherry, hints of vanilla, and raisins with luminous marzipan flavors, butterscotch and a foamy cherry candy, while mild black pepper and spices display on the mid-palate. Recommended by Carolina from The Wine Room of Forest Hills for about $20.

For more info on this wonderful grape varietal see Charles Scicolone's website.