Interview with Pierre Bollet, Brand Manager Chamarré

Tell us a little about the history of Chamarré.

Chamarré’s history is a series of firsts. First company putting together the production capacity of 13,000 winegrowers in all main wine regions in France, first association of growers to become public (Paris Stock Exchange), first company to bring to the market the new appellation “ Vins de Pays Vignobles de France”.

To understand the reasons that lead Pascal Renaudat to create Chamarré, we have to look at the world wine market. In a word, France could sell much more wine than it currently does. The reasons for this underperformance? French Wines are seen as too complex, difficult to choose for the non-connoisseur, which means for 9 wine-drinkers out of 10.

Pascal Renaudat achieved this tour de force in 2006 when he convinced 13,000 winegrowers throughout France to start working together on Chamarré. Many entrepreneurs had failed making winegrowers from Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Languedoc work together. Pride and unconditional attachment to traditions made it nearly impossible. If somebody could achieve it, it was certainly not a winegrower. That is the main reason why Pascal Renaudat, a wine import-export expert but not a winegrower himself, managed to create this large association from all around France.


In a world where there are so many good French wines to choose from, what makes the Chamarré concept so unique?

Chamarré is the only wine that combines the quality, freshness and complexity of prestigious northern wine regions like Burgundy, Loire or Bordeaux, with the fruit-forward, approachable style from the South: Languedoc, Corsica, South-West. The result: wines that show a yummy acidity, a subtle combination of complexity and fruit, of freshness and approachability.

Chamarré is also a guarantee that you will not have bad surprises from vintage to vintage. By adapting our blends according to the summer we have in France, Renaud Rosari, our Master Winemaker, is able to maintain a consistency in the style and in the price, which estate wines cannot achieve.


Why did Chamarré choose the wines that it did for the American market?

Chamarré is currently sold in Europe, Asia, and North America. The taste of consumers varies greatly in such different countries and cultures. Chamarré adapts to each market with wines that fit the palate-style of each country. For example the Grande Réserve line has been designed for America, because wine consumption is strongly driven by the grape varietal. Chamarré is focusing on this line in the US, because they are 100% single varietal. We have already many fans of our Grande Réserve Pinot Noir for example. In France, consumption by the region is more important, and we have permanent listing of Chamarré Bordeaux and Chamarré Jurançon in Monoprix, a leading national gourmet supermarket chain.


What is the best part of your job? ... and the worst?

Let’s start with the worst! What I really dislike is when somebody tells me that French wines are either too expensive or to complicated, so they don’t even want to look at Chamarré. Yes, we can produce great wines at everyday price in France!

The best part is when I see the brand growing everyday. Creating a brand demands a lot of hard work and perseverance, but the pleasure of seeing new Chamarré consumers every day is just as rewarding as the job is tough! This is my first job, I am very proud to be a part of this fantastic project.


Describe your perfect meal and the wines you'd pair with it?

To get along with the heat of the summer, I recommend a Mediterranean pasta salad, with penne, cherry tomatoes, olives, peppers, parmigiano cheese and olive oil. A light Chardonnay, not overly oaked and slighty fruit-forward is a perfect pairing to that… try the Chamarré Grande Réserve Chardonnay!

As a dessert, why not putting together a tropical fruit salad with mango, pineapple, peaches and pears, and sipping a Chamarré Jurançon? I tried this one more than once, the mango and pineapple taste in the Jurançon are magnified, it is amazing!

What's next on the horizon?

Chamarré will continue its series of firsts, by launching a type of wine that has never been introduced before! To be unveiled in a couple of months, this release will show how Chamarré is always coming up with innovation, once again! Let’s talk about it in a couple of months…

(About Pierre)
After graduating from a Master’s in Marketing at EDHEC Business School in Lille, France, I knew I wanted to work the Wine Business. I discovered the wine industry during my gap year, where I worked for Champagne Veuve Clicquot and for Nicolas, a wine-store chain in France. As I kept informed about the wine industry, I heard about Chamarré, which had just been created. Chamarré offered me a position in NYC, a great challenge, and a very high quality team, it was perfect for me!

Burgundy Tasting at Morrell Wines

I recently had the pleasure of sampling magnificent wines from Burgundy at Morrell Wines, here are tasting notes on a few of them.

Sylvain Cathiard Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru "Aux Thorey" 2011 $209
Muted and restrained nose of red fruits and dark wood, funky and herbal but smooth flavors express the terroir and the finish, excellent balance.

Domaine Jean Grivot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru "Aux Boudot" 2010 $158
Aromas of smokey plum and barnyard/animal, extracted flavors with a slight minerality, confectioners sugar and ripe blue fruits, beautiful tannins holding up to red fruit. This was my favorite pick of night.

Domaine Jean Grivot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru "Charmois" 2010 $79
On the nose floral notes contrasting tar and minerals, on the palate ripe strawberry, raspberry and black pepper along with licorice expressing silk tannins.

Hospices De Beaune Corton Cuvée Charlotte Dumay 2012 $120
Tart and a bit on the tight side, stark with hints of strawberry, for me a bit too early to tell.

Meo Camuzet Corton Perrieres 2011 $224
A beautiful and powerful concentration of aromas and flavors, balancing floral pastels and violets with fruit, pepper, spices, raspberry and strawberry. Clean and fresh with suggestions of slate and wood.

Chateau De La Tour Clos Vougeot 2012 $150
Aromas of mineral and super intense dark red fruit, earth and clay with wafts of oak, on the palate animal, spice and funk.

Meo Camuzet Marsannay 2012 $49
Smokey with plums, strawberry and stone with fresh tannins and earthy finish.

Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 2012 $119
Ruby colors, aromas of green pepper, rose water, somewhat gamey, nice acidity and smooth tannins, hints of honey on the palate with ripe red fruits and raspberry, powdered sugar on finish.

Il Nero Di Casanova Della Spinetta 2005 IGT

Italy • This 95% Sangiovese with 5% Colorino from Terricola, Tuscany is a medium to full bodied, deep burgundy color, has cherries on the nose and fruity bubble gum, palate is luscious apple cherry on back of tongue.

Chamarre Grand Reserve Pinot Noir 2005

All Pinot Noir but from 2 different regions: half from Corsica and half from Burgundy AOC grapes. A very soft style to this Pinot Noir with a nose of mellow red fruits, violets and a very smooth minerality with a palate of raspberries, licorice and vanilla (there is also a slight toastiness from 6 months in oak). I'd say a very nice balancing act is going on here. This one goes for about $13.

Note: Chamarré is the first brand to take advantage of the new French wine appellation, "Vin de Pays Vignobles de France" which allows blending across regions. Founder Pascal Renaudat and winemaker Renaud Rosari have access to sources from cooperatives across the country and now can blend the best of each.

Novel Travel Ideas for Wine Lovers

As mentioned many times on this blog, one of my most memorable vacations was a cycling trip through Tuscany. There were so many sights to see and on a bike I had the choice of stopping whenever I wanted if one caught my eye, and naturally what caught my eye related to wine. So... I'd usually stop at a winery, enoteca, or even a vineyard. I think an interesting trip sometimes can be a life changer, I know it was for me. So here are a few novel travel ideas for a wine lover.

Biking, walking, running, & multisport vacations through wine country

BACKROADS
For over 34 years Backroads has delivered a rich sense of journey that connects you to a region, with an appreciation for every minute of your time, so that events happen in a natural manner that makes sense, giving you maximum flexibility over how you spend each day. They operate their our own trips everywhere in the world, controlling quality each step of the way.

Multiple daily routes give you the freedom to access the best of a region at your own pace. Every day of every trip they provide a variety of well-researched options which are displayed on the Web and include mileage and elevation change. Every option comes with directions and is fully supported.

Two vans, three leaders, thoughtful trip design, multiple route options with directions and a choice of riding companions—each and every person is supported equally, regardless of ability.

River Barge through wine country

EUROPEAN WATERWAYS
Gourmet dining while savoring a glass of wine on a luxury hotel barge, visiting local vineyards in the Burgundy region of France or the Po River Valley of Italy.

Fully crewed, all inclusive luxury hotel barges cruise the inland waterways of nine European countries, along canals, rivers, lakes, lagoons and lochs, giving you the opportunity to experience life there from a truly unique perspective.

Hotel barges are ideal for people looking for either an individual cruise with other like-minded people, or for those choosing a whole barge charter for a family or group of friends.

On your all-inclusive cruise, your intimate ‘floating hotel’ glides gently along while you relax and enjoy gourmet cuisine, fine wines and the company of fellow passengers. There will be guided tours to castles, chateaux, vineyards, markets and when you return to the barge a professional crew will be there to look after you once more.

They have special theme cruises for those who enjoy a specific sport or hobby. You can choose a theme cruise from their cruise guide or view their cruise maps from several locations around the site.


Food & Wine

LA DOLCE VITA WINE TOURS is a boutique tour operator founded in 1999 that offers educational wine vacations in Italy, Spain, and Portugal.

Their tours aren’t simply about stellar wine and gourmet food. They’re an entry point to Italian culture. Wine is a magnificent portal. It’s a door that leads to the world of the winemaker: equal parts farmer and artist, scientist and alchemist. It opens onto the Italian kitchen, being a soul mate to both rustic cucina povera and the most elegant haute cuisine. Wine opens the way to history, to stories of ancient Romans, Renaissance dukes, and Savoy royalty who shaped what we eat and drink. And it’s a conduit to modern-day Italy, with its lively wine bars and sidewalk cafés, bucolic landscapes and art-filled cities. These are the worlds La Dolce Vita Wine Tours explores.

Small groups (2 to 14 max) allow for dialog with winemakers. For dedicated wine enthusiasts and wine educators, they have wine-intensive tours. For the active traveler, they offer walking tours and custom bike trips. Accommodations are charming countryside inns or family-run hotels in medieval wine towns.

On all their tours, you'll enjoy Italian-style hospitality, user-friendly wine education, thoughtful food and wine pairings, and cultural sights. Plus, you'll discover places you’d never find on your own.

An Interview with Keith Beavers

The following is an interview with Keith Beavers, co-owner of In Vino Wine Bar & Restaurant and Alphabet City Wine Co. Keith also writes a blog called East Village Wine Geek.

What was the first wine that made you realize you loved wine?

It was a 1999 Paternoster Aglianico Del Vulture Don Anselmo. It was so full bodied and robust with rose petals and licorice and a tannin structure as mammoth as the mountain it was grown near yet harnessed and balanced. It sent off alarms in my mind and soul telling me this was very important somehow. And here I am a servant of wine, spreading the love...I hope.

Describe your perfect meal and the wine you'd pair it with?

Lamb, Baby! Lamb. Give me an herb encrusted medium rare, seared and roasted rack of New Zealand lamb served with a side of marinated mushroom and white bean salad (with some caramelized onions maybe) served over a bed of mixed greens. OOOHHHH WEEEE! Put me at a table with this dish and a bottle of Pont de Crillon 2005 Pont de Crillon Les Chais de Pont de Crillon Cote Du Rhone and I am a happy wine geek. Don't bother me I am eating. This beautiful Syrah is one of the most subtle and integrated Rhones I have had yet. It is earthy without too much soil and has a deep pepper fruit that is not separated from the body but is swimming through the fruit. Not only does it compliment the flavors of the dish but takes on a life of its own as on your palate. And it's twelve bucks!!

What's the most common misconception that people have about wine?

That wine has to be expensive to be good or even great. Then there's that whole Montepulciano d'Abruzzo versus Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano. But the first is the biggest.

What's your newest find for under $20?

I am really diggin' this beautiful blend from Gascogne called Le Rouge Gorge. It is a blend of Cabernet Franc and Tannat. I have never had a blend like this and only the French could pull this one off. Tannat is one of the most tannic grapes on the globe but somehow this producer finds calm balance in the blend. This wine is powerful yet subtle with lean, deep berry fruit and a gripping tannin structure that holds on just long enough for some face time and then it blends into the fruit and allows the subtle peppery cab franc notes to come center stage for a bit. It's a beautiful wine and it's only eleven bucks.


Is there a wine you've always wanted to try, but never had the chance to?

Every wine I have not tried yet! But seriously if anyone wants to pop on over to Alphabet City Wine Co. and bring a bottle of 1996 Grand Cru Burgundy ... I am there Tuesday, Thursday Friday and Saturday. No pressure. I will be waiting...but no pressure.

The Best from the 2006 vintage

Following is a list of the best wine regions of the world from the 2006 vintage. FRANCE: Pomerol in Bordeaux • Burgundy • Cote Rotie/Hermitage • Chateauneuf du Pape • ITALY: Piedmont • Tuscany • GERMANY: Mosel-Saar-Ruwer • AUSTRIA: Riesling, Gruner Veltliner • AUSTRALIA: Barosa/Clare/McLaren • NEW ZEALAND • ARGENTINA • CALIFORNIA: Cabernet Sauvignon • OREGON: Pinot Noir • WASHINGTON: Cabernet Sauvignon. Art © 2008 by Dave Trieger

Blind Tasting of 12 Chianti/Sangiovese

Attended another blind tasting last night hosted by Greg dal Piaz of Snooth, and I'll be posting 4 flights of 3 wines each over the next 24 hours. Here is the first flight:



2005 Cosentino Il Chiaretto California 14.8% $18

With 92% Sangiovese and equal parts of 2% Petite Sirah, Early Burgundy, Merlot and Alicante, this is aged approximately 13 months in small barrels, and bottled unfined. On the nose resinous leather, fruit, white pepper, plastic wrap, high alcohol, with a palate of sour cherries, licorice sticks or twizzlers, and a woodsy profile... tasting like a Merlot blend.



2006 Ruffino Santedame Chianti Classico DOCG 13.5% $18

85% Sangiovese and remainder composed of various other reds, the alcohol fermentation took place in thermo-controlled stainless-steel vats for 10 days. Post-fermentative maceration on the skins continued for another 7 days. After completing the malolactic fermentation one part of the wine was refined for about 8 months, first in oak barrels, then in tanks and finally in bottle.

Very muted aromas of wet earth, structured tannins, with moody layers of white chalk, ash and a dark finish.

2007 Flora Springs Napa valley 14.2% $15

On the nose cranberry candy with a vegetal swash of green peppers, cologne and manure, while the flavors are earthy and cedar.

Eureka! Central Otago/New Zealand Wines Strike Gold!

Recently, I had the delicious opportunity to experience wines from New Zealand's Central Otago, which is the world's southernmost wine region.  This area's climate and geography is similar to that of Burgundy and Willamette Valley, and one of its sub-regions, Bannockburn, was a gold mining town in the 1860's. It's an area of extremes, boasting the highest and lowest temperatures nationally, as well the highest light intensity of the country, with 95% percent of its wineries part of the New Zealand Sustainable System. That's enough to entice me, so without further ado, here are some of my wine notes:

Mt. Difficulty Pinot Noir Single Vineyard Pipeclay Terrace 2010 $95
Opaque deep rose colors, violet on the nose with complex but subtle hints of stone, roasted vanilla beans and caramel. On the palate delicious ribbons of cola, ripe cherry, strawberry and spice. This vineyard and winery is certified sustainable. Unfiltered and unrefined, this was my hands down favorite.

Felton Road Bannockburn 2010
Vegetal, strawberry, red fruits, raspberry, spicy bing cherry.

Felton Road Pinot Noir Cornish Point 2009 $55
Attractive aromas, metallic mineral, vanilla, yummy cherry and strawberry.

Felton Road Pinot Noir 2010 $40
Caramel aromas with fresh red berry flavors, mild tannins and long finish.

Amisfield Pinot Noir 2009 $40
Alluringly funky on the nose with barnyard and underbrush contrasting violet, glycerine and wood, beautifully balanced against blue fruits and vanilla. Excellent long finish. This one was outstanding, especially for the price.

Amisfield Pinot Noir 2010 $37.95
Dark and brooding, also funk, horsey but again beautifully balanced. Very attractive floral aromas, with vanilla, barnyard and plum. White pepper and spice on the palate, slightly high alcohol content, ripe tannins and good finish. This vineyard and winery is certified sustainable. Aging: One year in French oak and another in bottle.

Felton Road Chardonnay 2011
Beautiful! Fresh, mineral, quenching, kiwi and green apple. Tastes more like a Sauvignon blanc than a Chardonnay. 

 
The dinner/tasting took place at the fantastic Aureole New York at 135 West 42nd Street. A wonderful evening, highlighted by wines that prove there might still be some gold in those New Zealand hills!

Appetizer
Wagyu Beef Carpaccio
Crispy Shitake, Sacallion, Taro Root, Ponzu, Lavash Cracker

Main Course
Roasted Scottish Salmon 
Sweet Potato, Black Trumpet Mushroom, Apple Nage

Interview with winemaker Luc Baudet from Chateau Mas Neuf

Your interest in the techniques used for aging wine was influenced by your stay in Ireland, would you say that those techniques are more or less important than terroir?

Terroir is a three fold concept: The most obvious first two are soils (and their interaction with vines...) and climate, the third one is the human effort and skill to influence the outcome of what the first two can offer.

In this acceptance, all actions including raising the wines before offering them to the public is part of terroir. They are all important, but the most difficult and long-to-achieve part is growing world class level grapes.


What sets Rhone apart from the other winemaking regions of France?

I think Rhone is not different from other great French terroirs. It has benefited from several centuries history of vine breeding and winemaking, and has the ability to grow in an unique way three fantastic grape varieties, the Syrah in the North, the Grenache and Mourvèdre in the South.


Why has the poularity of the wines of The Rhone increased in comparison to Bordeaux?

Maybe the uniqueness of Rhone is the ability to gather today a large public, from the very finest wine connoisseurs, to the newbies that are tired of the industrial rich fat New World, and want to be introduced to more truthful wines that express terroir.

I really think Bordeaux has a few exceptional terroirs, that can indeed produce outstanding wines, but the average terroir in Bordeaux is not adapted to produce ripe grapes in a regular way. As you know the whole of Gironde is classified as AOC ground. But not all soils in this area can produce great grapes.

In the Rhone, the climate is set to produce ripe grapes nearly every year.

And in the Rhone, a lot of icon wines are produced by small family owned companies. As opposed to big capitalistic operations in Bordeaux.


Describe your perfect meal and the wine you'd pair with it?

A perfect meal for me would highly depend on which season we are in and the available fresh products available. As a trained chef, I like to pop in a traditional food market, and wander around and pick whatever great things are on offer.

Of course, it depends whether I am near home or away.

Last but not least, the perfect meal is also made of perfect company, a party of 8 to 10 is perfect to try many wines, and share.

Let's say we are in May around our vineyards (fantastic season for fresh vegetables and nice seafood). We would have for a start a nice aperitif with a wide selection of local cold cuts, like Spanish Pata Negra, fresh green vegetables as a salad with Camargue salt and olive picholine oil, the famous brandade of Nimes toasted on Fresh bread.

This would be an occasion to sample some extra brut champagnes, from small producers. I would mention the Raymond Boulard house, as well as some marvellous vintage from Lallier, but also a nice dry Chenin blanc from Jacky Blot.

Then we would set up the plancha and have baby squids a la plancha with chorizo. This makes a terrific match with a dry Riesling from Alsace (or German from Mosel valley).

We could then have a fantastic Mediterranean seabass stuffed with fresh fennel in a salt crust. That could be the time from a Meursault Genevrieres from the Comtes Lafon, with reasonable age (10 to 15 years).

We would then switch on reds certainly sampling a wild duck fillet just ovened in a fig leaf, with a great Northern Rhône Syrah. I personnaly love the earthiness of Cornas, from Courbis, or Clape, but may others would do.

We could go on with a rack of lamb with fresh thyme, and search for a fantastic Grenache Noir, here the whole southern Rhone would do. From the unique style of Reynaud (Rayas or Fonsalette) to the smashing fruit of Clos du Caillou or la Janasse...

Then a cheese platter, mainly sheep and goat cheeses in this area, and you can dig into a Jura non oxidised white wine, or a very iodined great white from Grenache blanc and gris from Roussillon.

For desert, a nice white fruit soufflé would introduce us to great late harvests, which will range from Sauternes to Quart de Chaume, and trockenbeerauslese... not forgetting the fantastic Alsace grain Nobles...

For coffee, with dark chocolate, an old vintage port will lead conversations to last overnight... at least.

What's the most common misconception that people have about French wines?

I think a lot to do with perception of French wine and gastronomy is about too much complexity therefore it can scare people a lot.

French wines are very diverse, for sure, but what I always try to convey as a key message about wine is that it is all about enjoyment and sharing. Do not bother if you cannot make a 5 minute comment on a wine. Just think whether you like it or not, trust your own senses.

No expert can tell you what is good or not for you, the preference lies in each person own experience, so there should not be any social pressure built into the choice of a wine for an individual. Trust yourself and sample everything you will buy!!!

Is there a wine you've always wanted to try, but never had the chance to?

I would love to try all terroirs of la Romanée Conti, Burgundy reds can really be fantastic when made exceptional. And I believe this one is quite outstanding.

(For more info on Mr Baudet and Mas Neuf see: http://www.chateau-mas-neuf.com/en/winegrower.htm)