Abadia Retuerta Selección Especial 2013, Spain

What a wonderful succulent red blend from La Milla de Oro (the Golden Mile) of Castillo y Leon - Sardón de Duero, in Spain. Instead of the D.O. classification the producers opted for the more flexible "VdlT Castilla y Leon" allowing a terrific blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah and other varieties like Merlot and Petit Verdot.

Aged for 13 months in French and American oak barrels, this viscous red has thick dark colors accented with heady aromas of cherry pie and dark chocolate. The palate shows a richness that treats the tongue to a bombardment of ripe red and blue fruits through a lens of silky tannins and exquisite balance. What a beautiful treat! This bottle goes for about $30.

Viña Sastre Crianza 2009, Bodegas Hermanos, Sastre

Here is another beauty from the Ribera del Duero region of Spain where the 2009 vintage was reportedly a very good one, and this Tempranillo reflects that. After initial fermentation aged for 18 months in French oak.

Deep bluish red colors with red cherry, blue fruits, violets and deep earthy aromas, mushroom or truffle-like, more flavors of red fruits, red licorice candy and exotic eucalyptus, on top an herbal mint/lavender cast. Very fruit forward, with herbaceous twist and ready to drink (but can only improve with age). This would be a great wine to bring to a holiday celebration at $33.

Bodegas Vizcarra JC Vizcarra 2011

From Ribera del Duero in Spain, this 100% Tempranillo is aged in French & American oak (half new and half two years old) for 15 months. Purple ruby colors, clean, primary aromas of raw wood, vegetal, earth and barnyard. Nice acidity, fresh flavors of chocolate and licorice, palate overpowers aromas, beautiful finish, smooth tannins. Pairs well with red meat, but would be greatly improved with a little aging. $33

Alejandro Fernandez-Tinto Pesquera Reserva 2008

This powerful, racy Tempranillo is aged 24 months in American oak barriques and 12 months in bottle. Colored an opaque ruby in the glass with rust around the rim, lovely aromas of violets and cherry pie pervading, set against a certain minerality and hint of petroleum. Beautiful mixture of tannins and acidity showing flavors of cherry, black fruit and cocoa, with a spicy long finish. Robert Palmer labeled this the "Petrus of Spain". SRP $48. Ribera del Duero region.

Valsan 1831 Noviembre de Finca El Monegrillo 2006, Spain

From Manchuela, Spain where the popular red grape is usually Tempranillo, here is a tasty blend of 60% Shiraz with 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 14 months in French oak Allier barrels of varying cooperages, with different degrees of toast and stave sizes.

Deep garnet colors in the glass with aromas of dark fruit, blackberry pie and mint along with a toasted earthy edge. Nice rounded tannins and good acidity along with flavors of caramel, underbrush, anise and pepper. A long mature finish leaves the senses satisfied and wanting more.

Esporao Reserva Red 2009, Portugal

What a great red blend of Aragones (Tempranillo), Trincadeira (the dark grape used in Port wine), Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet (similar to a Garnacha)!

Fermented in stainless steel tanks, aged in French (30%) and American (70%) oak for 12 months and another 12 in bottle.

Deep red colors in the glass, rich, powerful and full bodied, spicy and herbal aromas with super ripe red berries on the palate along with wood and smoke. Good deep tannins and a wonderful balance. Really enjoyed this gem from Portugal. $25 SRP.

Bodegas Muriel Reserva 2005 DOCa Rioja, Spain

Made from 100% Tempranillo grapes and fermented in stainless steel tanks before aging in American and French oak for two years, then in bottles for another two.

Totally smooth, dark purple ruby colors appear in the glass, showing a complex combination of vanilla, oak, blue fruit and underbrush with nutty notes, a layered chewy creaminess, a fine texture and a long finish. Also attractive hints of spices accented by a cozy herbal note. SRP $20.

Sampled at Spain's Great Match WINEFOODDESIGN at Metropolitan Pavilion on October 24, 2012.

Monte Real Gran Reserva 1998, Bodegas Riojanas DOCa Rioja Spain

According to the governing traditions the Reservas from Rioja must spend (at least) 1 year in oak barrels and 2 years in bottle; Gran Reservas spend (at least) 2 years in barrels and 3 years in bottle.

The Monte Real GR blend is 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo and 5% Graciano, aged in American oak casks for 24 to 30 months and in bottle for 36 months. I first sampled this in 2008 at the Astor Center's Rioja Wine Seminar where my notes are as follows:

On the nose are beautiful bright cherries with aromatic spices and ripe summer fruits, while on the palate waves of dark fruit make for an excellent balance and a lush, long finish. I did a search and PJ Wine Co. has it listed retail at $26.99. This, I believe, is an amazing value.

Here are my notes on the same wine 4 years later at the "Spain's Great Match/WineFoodDesign" held in the Metropolitan Center in NYC this past week. 

Pale ruby colors in the glass with burnt orange around the rim, mild spices, white pepper, subdued, ripe cherry, smooth, mild wood, very smooth finish. Presently the SRP is $55.

Bodegas Riojanas Puerta Vieja Crianza 2007 Rioja

From La Rioja region of Spain, Bodegas Riojanas produces this Crianza, a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo and 5% Graciano aged for 18 months in American oak, followed by six months bottle aging before release.

Dark ruby colors paint a bold picture to prepare for the bright and funky nose showing earth and bramble, dried fruit, cured meat, black cherries and spice... while the palate expresses bold signs of umami, coconut, dried cherries and earth. Easy tannins and acidity with a surefooted balance that makes this a real find at around $11. What a complex wine for the price?!

Definitely a food wine that works really well with red meat or sauces. Don't miss this one!

Campo Viejo Rioja Crianza 2007

I've tried this Crianza from Spain's Rioja region from many vintages and always enjoyed it immensely. The grapes used here are a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha and 5% Mazuelo that is aged for 12 months in barrel before bottle aging for another 12. Dark ruby colors with earthy aromas marrying with cherries, plum and vanilla and completing the circle with toasted oak. $10.

Castillo Montroy (Anecoop) Reserva 2005 Valencia

Castillo Montroy Reserva is made from a blend of 60% Tempranillo and 40% Monastrell grapes and aged for at least 3 years before release. Dark ruby colors with earthy fruit aromas and notes of almond and oak. On the palate ripe cherries, black pepper, raspberry, and hints of licorice, chocolate and spice. An inexpensive price tag of $8, this wine was probably ready to drink a few years ago but still has some attractive qualities.

Notes on Valencia from Wine Searcher:
Valencia DO (Denominación de Origen), located within the Comunidad Valenciana autonomous community of Spain, was traditionally a mass producer for the bulk Spanish wine market, but many estates in the region have shed that image and are employing modern viticultural techniques to attempt to create more stylish wines. Archaeologists have established that winemaking in Valencia dates back thousands of years.

Marques De Riscal Tempranillo Reserva 2005, Rioja Spain

In 1858 Herederos de Marqués de Riscal became the first winery in the Rioja to produce wines following the Bordeaux method of slow fermentation and careful blending. This 2005 is hand picked using only the best grapes of the vintage made from 90% Tempranillo with a 10% blending of Mazuelo & Graciano, and aged in American oak barrels for 2 years before bottling for a year before release, thereby softening the tannins a bit.

Deep purple rose colors, with beautiful swirls of umami, tobacco, dark black cherry, spice and a balsamic note on the nose. The palate echoes its spicy nature along with the cherries, but now the cherries are showing a smoky earth, violets and ripeness, and spreading the finish evenly to the back of the tongue in a wave of warmth. And the finish goes on for a good distance.

Depending on where you live you should be able to find a bottle for between $15 and $20 and it can be cellared for at least another 10 years. Alcohol by volume: 13.5%

Winemaker's notes:
A dark cherry color with good depth. Balsamic aromas with hints of ripe fruit, complex and spicy. The attack is fresh and light, with soft, rounded tannins. The finish proves persistent with some reminders of toasted oak. Its passage through the mouth is pleasant and elegant, fresh and easy to drink.

Man of Numanthia

Recently, I had the pleasure of attending a dinner at Geoffrey Zakarian’s The Lambs Club in NYC with Estate Director Manuel Louzada, from Bodega Numanthia, to introduce three different vintages of Termes, Numanthia and Termanthia.

Born in Portugal, Louzada lived in Spain for ten years, where he developed a love for the sea as well as a more introspective way of looking at life. He studied agriculture, engineering, and agronomy and eventually returned to Portugal where he set to work making Port wine. In 1999 he moved to Argentina to make sparkling wines for Bodegas Chandon where the focus is on detail.

His three year plan, turned into nine, and he eventually moved to Numanthia in Spain in 2008. “Character and concentration are the trademarks of the Toro region wines, and we want to be truthful to soul of the wines,” notes an enthusiastic Louzada.

Numanthia was founded in 1998, and in 2006 the partners sold to Moet Hennessey. Some of the uniqueness of Toro wines is rooted in the fact that some of its vines are 60 to 200 years old.

I asked Manuel, how his experience with Port and Champagne influenced his winemaking…

“The influence of Port is about character -- it’s about power,” says Louzada. “It’s about trying to understand the massive strength of nature. When you taste Port wine for the first two years, I can assure you it’s not a very pleasant sensation, because of the alcohol, because of the amount of tannins, because of the fruitiness that seem overwhelming. What makes the big difference is the development of understanding of those powerful details.”

“Champagne on the other hand is the opposite. It’s how a single 1%, 2%, 3% of the most delicate wine makes such a big difference, so it’s about small details; it’s how the small percentages change the character of a wine. Blending it was a beautiful exercise, because when you taste base wines, whatever you have in thebase wine, good or bad, is going to be multiplied by a thousand because of the carbonic. So I had a lot of fun learning about, and making sparkling.”

“When blending Termanthia I had to choose between 22 or 23 barrels -- deciding which of the 20 I’m going to use-- there anything more detailed than that? You have to be able to figure out how to get to the picture you have in your head.”

Tinta de Toro

The Spaniards of the region call it Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo). A typical Tempranillo will usually display a full, muscular body and a viscosity with dark purple colors woven with aromas of black currants, violets, licorice and caramel. The bouquet may blend into a palate of plums and dark chocolate, all working to create a soft but supple wine with a long dusty finish... the better ones are a very nice balance of tannins & acidity.

A Quick Study of the 3 Vintages

The Termes 2007 was a warm vintage with elegant and delicate tones, while the 2008 Termanthia was a more traditional vintage with a beautiful combination of fresh fruitiness and tannic structure and concentration, with 2009 presenting yet another warm vintage concentration, highlighting extremely soft tannins. Louzada explains that some wines can be drinkable upon release but can be equally palatable in 30 years.

Tasting Notes and Pairings

Termes 2009

The first up is the Termes 2009... 100% hand harvested, 4 months in stainless steel tanks, then aged in French oak barrels for 14-16 months. (The 2008 was expressly fresh fruit, while the 2009 was slightly warmer vintage like 06, 03 with a level of intensity, and lots of character). Aromas of raspberry, strawberry, fruity, sweet lush tannins, lively vibrant fruit character. nice structure, toasted, cedar, layered juicy texture on palate. Paired beautifully with Beef Carpaccio with Piquillo Pepper, Egg and Jamon Serrano, delicate nuances, which rounds out the tannins. SRP $30


Numanthia 2007

Numanthia 2007, 100 year old vines, 18 months in French oak, more concentration, more complexity in the fruit, more aging, 100% new oak, a bit toastier and spicier, so you can feel the intensity of power and remarkable balance. On the palate, dark chocolate, cassis and spice. Paired with Veal Chop, Soubise, Summer Squash. SRP $60


Termanthia 2008

"Termanthia 2008 is a the expression of a single plot that is 120-140 year old vines, and explosion of fruit fresh cherries, like a bomb, complex so everything that we do has to be the most delicate winemaking technique to try to dominate that force, that strength of nature. Hand de-stemmed, crushed by foot, twice thru new barrels." Paired with Lamb Loin with Stuffed Piquillo Peppers and Eggplant. Can be aged for 30 years. SRP $200

Leese-Fitch Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 California at 1st Wine Society of Queens Meet-up

The first meetup of The Wine Society of Queens was held this weekend at The Wine Room of Forest Hills, where we sampled over a dozen new wines from California, France, Argentina, Italy, Spain and even Georgia (Russia). One of my favorites was the Leese-Fitch Cab and here are some tasting notes:

I know the label says Cabernet Sauvignon, in reality what you get is an amazing blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, 5% Syrah from River Junction, 5% Tempranillo from Moneterey, with Lodi contributing the 2% Alicante Bouchet, and 2% Petite Sirah.

Very attractive aromas of cassis infused with intense cherry liquore, sarsaparilla and black currants, flavors are floral influenced and herbal on the back palate. At the tail end hints of tea leaves, bits of cedar, milk chocolate and roasted marshmallow finish off nicely. This is a great bargain at $15.

Due Risotti Alla Casa Di Eric

My friend Eric Guido has done it again. He's obsessed with Risotto, and I'm so glad. Almost every time he has a new Risotto experiment he calls me to test his new recipes. It's a tough job, but hey... somebody's got to do it. But first... to the wines...

Azienda Agricola Moroder Rosso Conero 2002
Didn't take notes on this but do remember deep balsamic notes with waves of super ripe strawberries, unfiltered with lots of sediment, but a very interesting take on a Montepulciano.

Torrette Les Cretes Valle d'Aoste DOC 2006
Aromas of vanilla and caramel, blending with earth tones and a palate of blue fruits and berries... paired with red, orange, and yellow peppers, beets and radicchio with an unbelievable dipping sauce called Bagna Cauda (ban-ya cow-dah) olive oil warmed slowly for 2 hours with anchovies and garlic, this was amazing.

Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2007
Black cherries, glycerine, plums and blueberry with a slight hint of violets.



Vietti Barbera d'Alba Scarrone 2005 DOC
100% Barbera, from small single vineyard and 60 year old vines, here is a delicious nose of violets, chocolate with cherry pie, vanilla and cinnamon, carrying a nice acidity, and a long smooth finish.



Now to the two delicious Risottos... one was a simple risotto made mainly with Barolo, the other was made with Barolo, but with onions, garlic, herbs, carrots and fresh grapes (I believe that's it... I will try to get more info from Eric and post it asap).



Vina Valoria Rioja 1973
The only non-Italian in the group, this old Tempranillo from the Rioja region of Spain shows ruby colors, aromas of intense barnyard/animal, black cherries, then baked cherries, following by super ripe fruits and cherry candy, long and sexy finish.



Rocca Sveva Amarone Della Valpolicella 2006 DOC
Deep ruby with warmer colors around the edge of the glass, along with cherry pie aromas, layered with flavors of rich chocolate, dried fruits, bing cherries, and dark berries. On the palate has a nice full-bodied structure, with notes of hazelnut, a beautiful balance and lasting finish.



Paolo Bea Sanvalentino IGT 2006
From Umbria and made from a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 15% Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Paolo Bea is one of Italy's top producers. Aromas of roses and dry cassis with dark cherries, oak, flowers and spices, closing with a silky smooth finish.



For dessert Eric used a huge wooden cutting board loaded with cheeses like Morbier, Taleggio and Pecorino with black pepper, Prosciutto, Italian Salami and red grapes. Much thanks to Eric for a fun and delicious evening. BTW, check out his site called The V.I.P Table, great talk about food, cooking and wines.

Oh, and I almost forgot the Parmigiano Reggiano cheese with a dollop of 40 year old Balsamic vinegar.

Ciao!

Bodegas Montecillo Rioja Reserva 2003

This Reserva from the Rioja region of Spain is made by using the finest Tempranillo grapes, and then aging in French oak for a minimum of three years. Pleasant aromas of black cherries, caramel and vanilla reveal fruity flavors of ripe berries, with nuances of oak, and a balance of tannins to make for a smooth finish. $19, 13.5% alcohol.

Bodegas Pinord Clos de Torribas Crianza 2005 Spain

Made from Tempranillo, slow fermentation in stainless steel tanks followed by aging in the cask for nine months.

Beautiful intense aromas of dried flowers, ripe plums and spices woven into chalk and violets... while on the palate, I was blown away by delicious blood oranges, combining with vanilla and chocolate ice cream. Ending with a great fruit finish with lively acidity and firm tannins.

Navarro Marco Real Tempranillo 2005

This big red Tempranillo from the Navarro region of Spain has deep red colors, and strong meaty aromas with strawberries, dried cherries and earthtones. A bit high on the acidity, with flavors of V8 juice, raspberry, spice, dried herbs and leather.


Finish is very dry, with strong tannins, 14% alcohol content and $9.99/bottle in NYC. A bit tight when first opened, next day a little better, drank this on it's own, might be better with food like a roast chicken dish.

Cameron Hughes Lot 143 Howell Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet 2007

More tasting notes from the Snooth California Cabernet Sauvignon Blind Tasting earlier this month. Made from 90% Cabernet, 6% Tempranillo, 4% Syrah... on the nose chocolate, cherry cola, cassis, violets, super dry on the palate but with cedar, cigar box and ripe black fruits, and a floral note, nice acidity, short to medium finish.

Hughes notes:
In this economic environment, more and more wineries are presenting their wines to us, so one could say that as the economy gets worse, our selection gets better. Lot 143 is one of the first acquisitions of Sam Spencer, (our new wine maker) after originally bringing us Lots 1 and 2 back in 2003. Sam has focused on stepping outside of traditional brokerage channels to find the upper-echelon wines that tiptoe around the frenzy of the wine-sourcing market.

This lot in particular has been nothing less than mind-blowing. It comes from a $95 per bottle program, so with a little fine-tuning by Sam, becomes one of the best wines we offer at $22 per bottle. We just submitted it for reviews and should have the results by the end of 2009. I would be shocked if it scored anything less than 92 points. The grower group responsible for this wine has consistently scored in the mid 90s and with 2007 being one of the best years that Napa has seen, making this wine truly exceptional.

Sanfords Restaurant

Revisiting the neighborhood where I grew up never ceases to amaze me. When I left Astoria over 30 years ago there was a coffee shop on Broadway called Sanford's Cafeteria that back then was already there for over 55 years and a mainstay of the neighborhood. So it was great to see a CBS TV review of the new and improved Sanfords Restaurant. Brothers Chris and Gus Karalekas reinvented the place which was passed down to them from their father John Karalekas. John envisioned the Contemporary American culinary style and fresh ingredients and Chris (a Sommelier) selects the wines.


The exterior draws you in, is warm and inviting, and once inside is strikingly modern and tastefully done in warm tones with comfortable lighting.

We started with a bottle from Tuscany, the San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico 2005, made from 100% Sangiovese, aged 12 months in Slavonian oak casks, showing deep ruby colors, aromas of violets and red berries, flavors of ripe cherries, raspberries and plum, smooth tannins and crisp acidity. This wine is special to me having visited the vineyard during a cycling trip in 2006.

One of the appetizer house specialties were amazing, Butternut Squash Raviolis in a toasted almond sage cream sauce. They were out of the Florentine spring rolls in an herbed spinach-feta mix, but we'll save that for next visit. Next was the Tuna Tartar sashimi with sesame soy marinade, layered guacamole and wasabi aioli... beautiful!

Our main courses ranged from the Pecan crusted ahi tuna over orzo with grape tomatoes and wasabi to the organic free range rotisserie chicken, fresh herb rub, sweet potato mash, and seasonal vegetable medley.

On to our second bottle this time from Spain, a Lan Rioja 2005, a Crianza tempranillo showing bright ripe black cherry, fruity aromas, rosewater, and a bit of oak with light tannins and a fresh acidity.

Let me just say that this is just scratching the surface... the wine list is extensive and their markups are very reasonable, and the menu has loads of categories to choose from, soups, appetizers, quesadillas, salads, pasta, entees, sides, sandwiches, burgers and desserts... also VERY reasonable.

If you haven't been back to the old neighborhood in a while, well, here's a damned good excuse.