French Kiss: A French wine tasting dinner

At a recent wine tasting dinner at the Claremont Hotel in Roslyn Long Island I got the chance to try a cross section of French wines that were very cleverly paired with delicious French dishes.

First up was an Alsatian sparkling white wine (not called Champagne because its grapes are not grown in Champagne region), made from Chardonnay grapes by Pierre Sparr Marquis. Appellation (a geographical based term to identify where the grapes are grown) is Cremant Alsace, Pierre de Perlade Blanc de Blancs Brut. Light golden color with fruity aromas of melon and slight grass undertones, very crisp with taste of apples, kiwis and berries. Perfect with hors deourves.

Then another from Pierre Sparr, but this time a 100% Pinot Gris. Pale gold color, nose: fruit & apples again, peaches and smoke. This was paired quite nicely with a lobster bisque served in an espresso cup.

Next course was an asparagus tart in puff pastry with triple cream brie which might have posed a problem. Asparagus is a food long thought of as difficult to pair with wine, but they managed a beautiful companion in choosing a Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes used in Andre Lurton's Chateau Menaut Blanc Graves are grown in gravelly soil, giving the wine a mineral note. Color is pale yellow, and palate is a mixed bag of apple, apricot, asparagus. As I drank and ate more, I noticed the minerality intensify to reveal hints of kerosene... but in a good way:)

For an entree I had Filet Mignon with Foie Gras and Madeira sauce which paired well with the Andre Lurton Chateau Couchery Rouge Pessac-Leognan. This is a red bordeaux from Couchery Rouge. The place has a bit of history/legend to it... allegedly Henry IV slept there to avoid a thunderstorm, and it ultimately became known as Coucheroy (the king slept here). Soil from the vineyards are gravel over clay and seated in the Martillac and Leognan communes in the South of Bordeaux. The Grapes are fermented in steel and aged in French oak for 1 year. This is a 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and is an easy drinking and velvety Bordeaux. Color: ruby red; Nose: ripe fruits, smokey earth; Palate: berries & spices; mellow tannins.

The dessert wine was Chateau Castelnau Suduiraut 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. It reminded me of a really good Vinsanto or Muscato, and was floral, perfumed with golden color and citrus and honey. It was paired with a creme brule and worked for me.

LIST OF BYOB'S IN NYC

With the new economic climate the way it is, it makes sense to try to cut corners wherever possible. You can save about 40% on your dinner bill by eating and drinking at restaurant's where you can bring-your-own-bottle. With that in mind, I'm starting a list of BYOB's in NYC and will be updating it as I discover more. Please, if you find any new ones or have any additional information about the ones on my list, just chime in. Enjoy!

Bella Donna
307 E. 77th St, New York, NY 10021
Corkage Fee: None, Italian food, reasonable, no frills.
Phone: (212) 535-2866

Cafe A
973 Columbus Avenue & 108th Street, New York, New York 10025
Corkage Fee: None
French
Phone: 305-972-3358

Café Henri
French Cuisine
10-10 50th Ave., at Vernon Blvd.
718 383-9315

Café Loup
105 W. 13th St.
212-255-4746
West Village landmark. $2 per person corkage fee.

Cherin Sushi
306 E 6th st, NY, NY 10003
Corkage Fee: NONE
Hours: 5 pm to 12 , closed on monday
Phone: 212-388-1348

Cube 63
63 Clinton St (Between Rivington & Stanton), New York, NY 10002
Corkage Fee: None
sushi and japanese cuisine
Hours: 5PM - 12AM; 5PM - 1AM Fri/Sat
Phone: 212 228-6751

De Mole‎
Mexican
4502 48th Ave, Flushing, NY‎
718 392-2161‎

Dolce Vita
181 Grand Street, New York, NY 10013
Corkage Fee: $0
Hours: Mondays: Closed, Tuesday thru Sunday 5pm to 11pm, Saturday Brunch 12 noon to 4pm, Sunday Brunch 11am to 4pm
Phone: 646 688-4110 01221

Il Bambino‎
3408 31st Ave, Long Island City, NY‎
Panini, cupcakes, $5 corkage fee.
718 626-0087‎

Ivo & Lulu
558 Broome St, New York, NY 10013
Corkage Fee: NONE
Near Varick st. Cash only. Organic French food, limited menu, but good and inexpensive $12-$15 range.
Hours: Daily, 6pm-11pm
Phone: (212) 226-4399

Kitchenette
1272 Amsterdam Ave., New York City, NY 10027-5035
Corkage Fee: ? Small, no frills.
Hours: M-F 8:00am - 11:00 pm, Sat &Sun 9:00 am - 11:00 pm
Phone: Tel (212) 531-7600

La Pizza Fresca Ristorante
31 East 20th Street, New York, New York 10003
Corkage Fee: $25 rustic Italian Neapolitan pizza. Over 500 wines.
Hours: M-F 12-3:30 Lunch, 5:30-11 Dinner, Sat. 5:30-11, Sun. 5-11
Phone: 212-598-0141

My Kitchen
A reincarnation of a popular Queens Mediterranean restaurant/wine bar that was on Austin Street in the 80's.
106-17 Metropolitan Ave., nr. 72nd Dr. Forest Hills
917-374-7495

New Orleans Sno-Ball Cafe
1590 Lexington Avenue, New York, New York 10029
Corkage Fee: none
Hours: M-F 10-8pm Sat 11-8 Sunday 2:30-6pm
Phone: 646 423-1596

Nick & Stef's Steakhouse
9 Penn Plaza, New York, NY 10001
Corkage Fee: 0
BYOB Friday and Saturdays Through August
Hours: 11:30am-9:30pm
Phone: 212-563-4444

one83
1608 First Avenue, between 83rd and 84th street.
Corkage fee: $15
212 327-4747

Phoenix Garden Restaurant
242 E 40th St, New York, NY 10016-1732
Corkage Fee: ?
Hours: Mon-Fri 11:30am-9:45pm, Sat -Sun 12:30pm-9:45pm
Phone: 212-983-6666

Poke Japanese Restaurant
305 E 85th St, New York, NY 10028
Corkage Fee: 0
Hours: 5pm - 11pm Close Sun
Phone: 212-249-0569

The Riverdale Garden restaurant
4576 Manhattan College Parkway, Riverdale (Bronx), NY 10471
Corkage Fee: $15. No corkage on Tuesday nights
Hours: lunch and dinner

Kai
131 Avenue A, New York, NY 10009
Corkage Fee: 0
Thai food very reasonably priced.
Hours: 7 Days from Noon to 11 PM
Phone: 212-420-5909

Kaleidoscope
212 E. 10th Street, New York, NY 10003
Corkage Fee: None
Hours: 5pm-11pm Sun-Thurs, 5pm-12am Fri & Sat, Brunch 11am-5pm Sat & Sun
Phone: 212-420-8822

Tartine
253 W. 11th St., NYC - West Village, NY
Corkage Fee: None Small but cute place on treelined e vill block, affordable French fare, excellent value.
Phone: 212-229-2611

The Orchard
162 Orchard street, New York, NY 10002
Corkage Fee: none on Sundays
BYOB on Sundays
Hours: wed-sun 6- 11pm
Phone: 212.353.3570

Wai? Cafe
583 Ave. of the Americas (6th Ave), New York, New York 10011
Corkage Fee: none, new American lean cuisine, low prices.
Hours: 10 A.M.-12 A.M.
Phone: 212- 414-2003

Interview with winemaker Luc Baudet from Chateau Mas Neuf

Your interest in the techniques used for aging wine was influenced by your stay in Ireland, would you say that those techniques are more or less important than terroir?

Terroir is a three fold concept: The most obvious first two are soils (and their interaction with vines...) and climate, the third one is the human effort and skill to influence the outcome of what the first two can offer.

In this acceptance, all actions including raising the wines before offering them to the public is part of terroir. They are all important, but the most difficult and long-to-achieve part is growing world class level grapes.


What sets Rhone apart from the other winemaking regions of France?

I think Rhone is not different from other great French terroirs. It has benefited from several centuries history of vine breeding and winemaking, and has the ability to grow in an unique way three fantastic grape varieties, the Syrah in the North, the Grenache and Mourvèdre in the South.


Why has the poularity of the wines of The Rhone increased in comparison to Bordeaux?

Maybe the uniqueness of Rhone is the ability to gather today a large public, from the very finest wine connoisseurs, to the newbies that are tired of the industrial rich fat New World, and want to be introduced to more truthful wines that express terroir.

I really think Bordeaux has a few exceptional terroirs, that can indeed produce outstanding wines, but the average terroir in Bordeaux is not adapted to produce ripe grapes in a regular way. As you know the whole of Gironde is classified as AOC ground. But not all soils in this area can produce great grapes.

In the Rhone, the climate is set to produce ripe grapes nearly every year.

And in the Rhone, a lot of icon wines are produced by small family owned companies. As opposed to big capitalistic operations in Bordeaux.


Describe your perfect meal and the wine you'd pair with it?

A perfect meal for me would highly depend on which season we are in and the available fresh products available. As a trained chef, I like to pop in a traditional food market, and wander around and pick whatever great things are on offer.

Of course, it depends whether I am near home or away.

Last but not least, the perfect meal is also made of perfect company, a party of 8 to 10 is perfect to try many wines, and share.

Let's say we are in May around our vineyards (fantastic season for fresh vegetables and nice seafood). We would have for a start a nice aperitif with a wide selection of local cold cuts, like Spanish Pata Negra, fresh green vegetables as a salad with Camargue salt and olive picholine oil, the famous brandade of Nimes toasted on Fresh bread.

This would be an occasion to sample some extra brut champagnes, from small producers. I would mention the Raymond Boulard house, as well as some marvellous vintage from Lallier, but also a nice dry Chenin blanc from Jacky Blot.

Then we would set up the plancha and have baby squids a la plancha with chorizo. This makes a terrific match with a dry Riesling from Alsace (or German from Mosel valley).

We could then have a fantastic Mediterranean seabass stuffed with fresh fennel in a salt crust. That could be the time from a Meursault Genevrieres from the Comtes Lafon, with reasonable age (10 to 15 years).

We would then switch on reds certainly sampling a wild duck fillet just ovened in a fig leaf, with a great Northern Rhône Syrah. I personnaly love the earthiness of Cornas, from Courbis, or Clape, but may others would do.

We could go on with a rack of lamb with fresh thyme, and search for a fantastic Grenache Noir, here the whole southern Rhone would do. From the unique style of Reynaud (Rayas or Fonsalette) to the smashing fruit of Clos du Caillou or la Janasse...

Then a cheese platter, mainly sheep and goat cheeses in this area, and you can dig into a Jura non oxidised white wine, or a very iodined great white from Grenache blanc and gris from Roussillon.

For desert, a nice white fruit soufflé would introduce us to great late harvests, which will range from Sauternes to Quart de Chaume, and trockenbeerauslese... not forgetting the fantastic Alsace grain Nobles...

For coffee, with dark chocolate, an old vintage port will lead conversations to last overnight... at least.

What's the most common misconception that people have about French wines?

I think a lot to do with perception of French wine and gastronomy is about too much complexity therefore it can scare people a lot.

French wines are very diverse, for sure, but what I always try to convey as a key message about wine is that it is all about enjoyment and sharing. Do not bother if you cannot make a 5 minute comment on a wine. Just think whether you like it or not, trust your own senses.

No expert can tell you what is good or not for you, the preference lies in each person own experience, so there should not be any social pressure built into the choice of a wine for an individual. Trust yourself and sample everything you will buy!!!

Is there a wine you've always wanted to try, but never had the chance to?

I would love to try all terroirs of la Romanée Conti, Burgundy reds can really be fantastic when made exceptional. And I believe this one is quite outstanding.

(For more info on Mr Baudet and Mas Neuf see: http://www.chateau-mas-neuf.com/en/winegrower.htm)

More Wines for Thanksgiving

I'd like to thank Kristen and her good friends for helping me taste this flight of wine picks for Thanksgiving. The wines were from California, Italy, France and New Zealand. (Also thank you to Kristen for photo above.)

Chateau Julien Gewurztraminer 2010 Carmel Valley, California
Light golden colors, clean citrus notes of grapefruit, flowers, honey and jolly rancher green apple, the mild and simple palate shows spice and nice acidity. Gewurztraminer is versatile and will pair well with Turkey dinner, especially if your stuffing is spicy, also may be used before dinner with cheese or after dinner with dessert.

Winemaker notes:
Cold fermented using Steinberger Yeast, known for its slow fermentation, allows the winemaker the ability to maintain natural varietal flavor and a slight residual sugar. While semi-dry in flavor, this wines slightly higher acidity balances the residual sugar for a refreshing, lighter style of wine.

Rasciatano Rose, Puglia Italy
Made with 100% Montepulciano grapes pressed softly then fermented partly in stainless steel vats at a temperature of 13-15° (C) and partly in second and third passage barriques, followed by aging in stainless steel vats for 4-6 months and 4 months in bottle. Rose petal colors, aromas of sour cherry, and peach, on the palate dry, slightly metallic with good acidity.

Dino Torti Forza Inter Pino Nero Oltrepo Pavese 2008 Italy
Also soft pressed, complex aromas of almonds, fruits and flowers, flavors of nutty, apple and pear, dry but satisfying.

Maison Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages, 2009 France
The grapes (Gamay) are gently crushed, an extended maceration of 12-20 days gets you the extraction of color and tannins, then aged in French oak for 8 to 10 months. On the nose notes of tar and forest floor, fruit forward on the palate of black sour cherry, pepper, an attractive minerality and holiday spice, good finish. Great deal at $10.

Te Muna Road Vineyard Craggy Range Pinot Noir, 2009, New Zealand
From the region of Martinborough, 100% Pinot Noir grapes are fermented in open-top tanks followed by aging in 33% new French oak barriques for 10 months. Rose red, medium weight but at the same time velvety, tree bark, smoky earth and violets, dry but sweet, beautiful balancing act, plums. Nice long layered finish. SRP $40. A majority of the tasters really enjoyed this one.

St. Francis Winery Sonoma County Old Vines Zinfandel, 2008 California
The average age of the vines here are 80-100 years old, and actually is 89% Zin, and the rest a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Mourverdre, Carignane, Syrah and Petite Sirah. The grapes are fermented then aged in new American oak for 12-15 months. Complex, underbrush, cigar box, cherry vanilla, raspberry, plums, pepper and spice. For the price ($17) very nice.

Luccarelli Pazzia Primitivo di Manduria Old Vines 2007 Puglia, Italy
Deep rich purple ruby colors show such an opacity as to preview what's to come, namely rich cherries with prunes and spices on top of vanilla and chocolate nuances. Very fruit forward but with an Italian flair. Beautiful. $40.

Arnaldo Caprai Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni 2005 DOCG Montefalco Italy
Made with the best grapes of 100% Sagrantino, aged 2 years in French Oak Barrique and a minimum of 6 months in bottle. What is immediately apparent is the very deep dark opaque colors, with strong and vibrant vanilla concentrates on the nose, laid over violets, earth and spices. Flavors of ripe fruit woven with spices and vanilla, great aging potential.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving!!!!!!

Tenute Silvio Nardi

The Nardi family, starting with Francesco in 1893 who emigrated from Italy to the US and returned to Umbria two years later with his new plow invention, the “Voltarechhia”, is tied to the earth.

The next generation found his son Silvio buying estates in three Montalcino locations, the Casale del Bosco estate in 1950, Manachiara in 1962, and finally the Bibbiano estate in 1970. He also was one of the founders of the Brunello di Montalcino Wine Consortium.

Silvio’s daughter Emilia, president of the Winery since 1990, was influenced by the wines of Bordeaux and has focused on terroir, clonal research and phenological ripeness in order to improve the quality of the wines. All told there are 36 vineyards and 25 different kinds of soils and altitudes. She employed enologists to study the soil and positions of plants, and the use of many modern techniques.


At a recent tasting at Aldea in NYC I had the opportunity to meet Emilia and sample some of her wonderful wines from Brunello, paired with equally great cuisine... here are my tasting notes.





Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2007 $70


A blend of the best hand harvested Sangiovese Grosso grapes of the Manachiara and Casale del Bosco estates, aged for 30 months in French Allier barriques and large Slavonian oak, then a minimum of 12 months in bottle. Deep ruby color, with nose of violets, spice, smoked meats, leather, and on the palate sour cherry, cedar, and green pepper. Good acidity and tannins in balance with a long finish.



Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino Manachiara 2006 $107


From 45 year old vines this single vineyard Brunello demonstrates intense use of wood in the 12 months in French Allier barriques and 18 months in old Slavonian oak barrels, followed by at least a year in bottle. One bottle = 1 vine. Garnet colors, aromas of ripe fruit and spice, while on the palate is candied cherry, and floral notes with a nice acidity and finish.



Tenute Silvio Nardi Rosso di Montalcino 2010 $27


Sangiovese Grosso grapes from the Casale del Bosco estate make up this Rosso fermented in stainless steel for 15 days, aged in used casks for 6 months and 4 months in bottle. Enjoyed this very much. The 2010 vintage was a great one and it shows here, can’t wait for the Brunellos. Deep ruby colors, this was a shining star for me with bing cherry, red fruits, even some strawberry on the nose and a palate of red fruits and spice that grows with time.



Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino 2006 $70


Also a blend of the best hand harvested Sangiovese Grosso grapes of the Manachiara and Casale del Bosco estates, aged for 12 months in French Allier barriques and 12 months in large Slavonian oak botte, then a minimum of 6 months in bottle. Grapes are from the best 15 to 20 year old vines.
Ruby colors warmer colors around rim of glass, intense aromas of spice, leather, and earth and a palate of red fruits and a smooth balance of acidity and tannins. What a great finish.

Interview with Pierre Bollet, Brand Manager Chamarré

Tell us a little about the history of Chamarré.

Chamarré’s history is a series of firsts. First company putting together the production capacity of 13,000 winegrowers in all main wine regions in France, first association of growers to become public (Paris Stock Exchange), first company to bring to the market the new appellation “ Vins de Pays Vignobles de France”.

To understand the reasons that lead Pascal Renaudat to create Chamarré, we have to look at the world wine market. In a word, France could sell much more wine than it currently does. The reasons for this underperformance? French Wines are seen as too complex, difficult to choose for the non-connoisseur, which means for 9 wine-drinkers out of 10.

Pascal Renaudat achieved this tour de force in 2006 when he convinced 13,000 winegrowers throughout France to start working together on Chamarré. Many entrepreneurs had failed making winegrowers from Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Languedoc work together. Pride and unconditional attachment to traditions made it nearly impossible. If somebody could achieve it, it was certainly not a winegrower. That is the main reason why Pascal Renaudat, a wine import-export expert but not a winegrower himself, managed to create this large association from all around France.


In a world where there are so many good French wines to choose from, what makes the Chamarré concept so unique?

Chamarré is the only wine that combines the quality, freshness and complexity of prestigious northern wine regions like Burgundy, Loire or Bordeaux, with the fruit-forward, approachable style from the South: Languedoc, Corsica, South-West. The result: wines that show a yummy acidity, a subtle combination of complexity and fruit, of freshness and approachability.

Chamarré is also a guarantee that you will not have bad surprises from vintage to vintage. By adapting our blends according to the summer we have in France, Renaud Rosari, our Master Winemaker, is able to maintain a consistency in the style and in the price, which estate wines cannot achieve.


Why did Chamarré choose the wines that it did for the American market?

Chamarré is currently sold in Europe, Asia, and North America. The taste of consumers varies greatly in such different countries and cultures. Chamarré adapts to each market with wines that fit the palate-style of each country. For example the Grande Réserve line has been designed for America, because wine consumption is strongly driven by the grape varietal. Chamarré is focusing on this line in the US, because they are 100% single varietal. We have already many fans of our Grande Réserve Pinot Noir for example. In France, consumption by the region is more important, and we have permanent listing of Chamarré Bordeaux and Chamarré Jurançon in Monoprix, a leading national gourmet supermarket chain.


What is the best part of your job? ... and the worst?

Let’s start with the worst! What I really dislike is when somebody tells me that French wines are either too expensive or to complicated, so they don’t even want to look at Chamarré. Yes, we can produce great wines at everyday price in France!

The best part is when I see the brand growing everyday. Creating a brand demands a lot of hard work and perseverance, but the pleasure of seeing new Chamarré consumers every day is just as rewarding as the job is tough! This is my first job, I am very proud to be a part of this fantastic project.


Describe your perfect meal and the wines you'd pair with it?

To get along with the heat of the summer, I recommend a Mediterranean pasta salad, with penne, cherry tomatoes, olives, peppers, parmigiano cheese and olive oil. A light Chardonnay, not overly oaked and slighty fruit-forward is a perfect pairing to that… try the Chamarré Grande Réserve Chardonnay!

As a dessert, why not putting together a tropical fruit salad with mango, pineapple, peaches and pears, and sipping a Chamarré Jurançon? I tried this one more than once, the mango and pineapple taste in the Jurançon are magnified, it is amazing!

What's next on the horizon?

Chamarré will continue its series of firsts, by launching a type of wine that has never been introduced before! To be unveiled in a couple of months, this release will show how Chamarré is always coming up with innovation, once again! Let’s talk about it in a couple of months…

(About Pierre)
After graduating from a Master’s in Marketing at EDHEC Business School in Lille, France, I knew I wanted to work the Wine Business. I discovered the wine industry during my gap year, where I worked for Champagne Veuve Clicquot and for Nicolas, a wine-store chain in France. As I kept informed about the wine industry, I heard about Chamarré, which had just been created. Chamarré offered me a position in NYC, a great challenge, and a very high quality team, it was perfect for me!

Italy's Icons and Rising New Stars

On a cold and blustery January Saturday, Italian Wine Merchants hosted a tasting series called Italy’s Icons and Rising Stars, which I attended with both old and new friends. It began as a low-key and reserved afternoon that quickly turned boisterous—complete with exploding glasses, spurting wine and contagious laughter.

Bruno Giacosa Spumante Brut 2004 DOC
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Region: Lombardia

Bruno Giacosa, known more for his Barolo and Barbaresco in the Piedmont region makes this Spumante Brut in the neighboring Lombardy region. Made from 100% Pinot Noir in the traditional Champagne style, fermented in stainless steel followed by secondary fermentation in bottle and hand riddling, the wine ages on the lees for a period of 24 to 30 months prior to release.

Loaded with ripe fruits, showing a dry minerality, citrus notes, a hint of fresh bread and heady floral aromas.

Giuseppe Quintarelli Bianco Secco Ca' del Merlo 2007 IGT
Varietal: Garganega Blend
Region: Veneto

Here we see Quintarelli, a master of wine known for his Valpolicella, Recioto and Amarone, delving into a Bianco Secco, an interesting blend of Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Saorin (the last of which, meaning "flavor" in Veronese dialect, and believed to be a clone of the Tocai grape).

Crisp and full flavors abundant with fresh aromatics of green apple, lemon rind, lychee, honey and minerals, and finishing long and smooth.

Bodega Chacra Pinot Noir Rio Negro Barda 2007
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Region: Patagonia, Argentina

Piero Incisa della Rocchetta hails from one of the great Italian wine families -- the Rocchetta family is responsible for the planting of Sassacaia, and with the release of their first vintage in 1968, was able to convince the wine world of the high quality of Italian wines. In 2004, Piero purchased a vineyard in Patagonia Argentina which is now Bodega Chacra in order to produce Pinot Noir.

Hand destemmed, macerated in cement tanks, then in oak barrels for 11 months, this is a fruit forward, dense and well structured Pinot with aromas of tar, oak and smoke, textured with earthy flavors and a mineral character.



Punica Montessu 2007
Varietal: Carignan Blend
Region: Sardegna

From Giacomo Tachis of Sassicaia fame comes this Super-Sardegnian blend of 60% Carignano, with 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. Fermented in cement vats, aged in French oak barriques for 18 months and finally 12 months in bottle.

This was one of my favorites of the tasting and seems to me like a great value at $32 per bottle. A nose of violets, herbs and white pepper, and a ripe profile of plums, blueberries and even a little peach.



Talenti Rosso di Montalcino 2007
Varietal: Sangiovese
Region: Toscana

Made from grapes harvested from younger Brunello vines, this wine matures in oak barriques for two years and in bottle for one. Aromas of red ripe cherries and animal, with flavors bringing to mind Port wine, plums and cherries.



Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2004
Varietal: Sangiovese Grosso
Region: Toscana

Aged in French oak barrels for 3 years before aging in bottle for 12 months. Tar, smoke, oak, chalk, cola, leather and plums, all come together to form a fine classic Brunello.



The good company: David, Sarena, Alicia, Kathy, Robin & Allen.

(Stay tuned... Two more wines to come from this tasting, and more pix.)

Bartolo Mascarello Barbera d'Alba 2007 DOC
Varietal: Barbera d'Alba
Region: Piemonte

Deep ruby colors with complex aromas and palate of ripe cherries, chocolate, violet candies, herbs, coffee, smoked meats.



A&GN Fantino Barolo 'Vigna dei Dardi' Nebbiolo Piemonte 1995
Varietal: Nebbiolo
Region: Piemonte

Aged 12 months in stainless steel followed by 12 moths in bottle, ripe black cherries, with a spicy edge and smooth texture.

Wines of Cloudy Bay, Marlborough New Zealand

Marlborough, New Zealand's South Island seems to have a handle on Sauvignon Blanc. I recently had a chance to sample a few along with a Chardonnay, Riesling and a Pinot Noir. Cloudy Bay’s thoroughly engaging winemaker Sarah Burton was our guide at an outdoor dinner featuring their wares at The Elizabeth Street Gallery, an outdoor antique garden in New York City’s Nolita, with beautifully matching cuisine by Silkstone.

Sarah is one of three winemakers at Cloudy Bay (teamed with Tim Heath and Nick Lane) in Blenheim, Marlborough, New Zealand. “No traffic lights, no people and 1 coffee shop.” She’s been at Cloudy bay for 2 years and it’s just celebrated it’s 25th year anniversary. They’ve come a long way and their focus is on Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. “Marlborough is a family region, where animals are important, people are close knit.” Their wines are about science and art but especially about people.

2011 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc
This one is close to her heart, she and her team spent hours of fine tuning, they take it seriously, and they’re proud of it. I especially loved this one. Sarah says, “It reminds me of Christmas, with a vibrancy, fresh fruit, texture, herbs, capsicum, grapefruit, a palate that’s smooth, creamy, with a crisp finish. We slipped in a 2% controlled barrel fermentation which adds fleshiness, aged it 4 months in old barrels with some barrels from as far back as 1986 so they’re neutral, with no oak influences and more aeration than influence from the barrel. The point is to get flavors from the grape directly into the bottle. It’s all about climate... it’s the cool nights that give fresh vibrancy and acidity that make it special.”

Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2006
From the same vineyards as above, left to ripen a bit longer, they press the grapes but play around with the solids and the juice to give more texture and weight later on, then it’s 100% barrel fermented with 10% new oak and 90% really old (neutral) French oak. Complex, showing individual personality, and as this wine opens, the changes are apparent and amazing. Savory, with orange blossom characters, some citrus notes, but more nuttiness, creaminess from the barrel fermentation. The fermentation takes place using only wild yeast, followed by a partial malolactic fermentation, left in barrel for 18 months, then another 18 months in bottle. 2 words: Minerality & Texture!

Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2009
The next big varietal coming out of Marlborough is Pinot Noir. Early on in NZ these grapes traditionally were planted on the plains and now planted on slopes which improved quality of fruits. Pinot Noir is gently handled, hand picked, then fermented for 2 weeks with natural yeasts, the use of “whole bunch” makes spicy green characters from the stems. 2 more weeks on skins impart more color and tannins, press off to 40% new oak barrel and 60% 2-3 year old oak, all French, and aged for 8-10 months, Complex, fruity, raspberry, strawberry, funk, spicy, chocolate, expressive, smooth, soft, supple tannins with minerality. I also get hints of white pepper, aromas of red licorice, a good long finish, and a clean earthiness.

New West Village Wine Bar: Pudding Stones

Every morning I’ve been passing by a storefront in New York’s West Village that for months had its windows papered to block a view to the inside. But the awning had an intriguing name …Pudding Stones Wine Bar which was printed in small subtle letters.

Finally it’s open for business just in time to celebrate my friend Allen’s success in landing a new job. I get in touch with Laura and Christine with the name and address of Pudding Stones West Village and by the time I get there Laura is at the end of the bar with a look on her face and says, “did you see that?” So I look back towards the entrance and I see what she’s gawking at. A famous movie and TV actor is sucking face with a tall buxom redhead. That’s a good start.

The ambience is a result of attention to detail and just plain old good design. The interior is a sexy and comfortable space split into 3 sections, the tables in the first third, the bar in the second and the raw bar in the third. The cuisine is American Bistro with a French influence.

Behind the bar one of the owners, Joe Rabasco recommends the Costa Del Sol Napa 2005 blend of Sangiovese, Zinfandel and Merlot produced by Bennesere Vineyards. Each varietal within this blend is from a specific vineyard lot. The wine is a full bodied red, barrel aged in a combination of small French and American oak for 18 months. The aromas are an exotic blend of leather, barnyard and toast bursting with intense flavors of jammy blackberries, cola, glycerine with hints of licorice, orange and powdered sugar. And to top it off a super smooth finish.

After the good advice Joe gave us on the wine, he and his brother Peter and another partner, Joe helped us pick a sampling of some Small Plates: Yellowfin Tuna Tartar, a fresh delight with fennel and dill, an amazing Mac and Cheese with gruyere, cheddar, breadcrumbs and truffle oil, a Guacamole with Blue Corn Chips, and to close out the meal a Plate du Jour… a delicious jumbo Lobster Ravioli with Spinach and Ricotta in a Butter sauce.

I don't think they have a website as yet, they've only been open a week or two, but they are located at 48 Carmine Street, Tel (212) 627-6050. I'll definitely be back.

The Wines of Campania: Donna Chiara Wines at Il Gattopardo

photo above by Alan Watts from Eat Italian

Last week Ilaria Petitto from Donna Chiara Winery guided us through an evening of tastings from the Campania region of Italy at Il Gattopardo, a fantastic Campanian restaurant in NYC owned by the legendary Gianfranco Sorrentino. The winery is located in Montefalcione, a small town in Avellino, where her family has been since 1885. Winemaking is a family tradition, tied closely to the land, where typical white wines like Greco di Tufo, Falanghina, Fiano di Avellino are well structured and long aging, as well as tasty reds like Aglianico and Taurasi. Ilaria pointed out "It is said that Taurasi is the Barolo of the south, but in fact can be better, after all Aglianico is a much more ancient grape than Nebbiolo."

Here are my tasting notes along with the wonderfully paired menu:

Donna Chiara Sante Spumante Brut IGT
a sparkling 100% Falanghina, made using the Martinotti lungo method of fermentation to maintain traditional flavors of the region, fine perlage (smaller, more numerous bubbles), floral aromas, fresh fruit, citrus, minerality and a tropical bouquet.

Paired with arancini di risotto con piselli, mozzarella e sugo di vitelli, bruschetta di fiocco di burrata e basilico.

Donna Chiara Falanghina Beneventano IGT
Fermented for 40 days, straw yellow colors, toasty, pineapple, buttery smooth, even toned, beautiful full bodied, good minerality and acidity and long aging potential.


Donna Chiara Fiano d'Avellino DOCG
2 month fermentation using wild yeasts, vulcanic soils giving layered texture, late harvest imparts an intense ripeness, showing in the aromatics of dried fruit, pear, apple, mild acidity, smooth and long finish.

Both paired with parmigiano di zucchini con provola e salsa al pomodoro.


Donna Chiara Aglianico IGT 2008
No oak touches this one, aged 6 months in bottle, light, fruit aromas, a palate of sour raspberry, glycerine, blackberry, and sour cherries linger on the finish.



Donna Chiara Irpinia 2008 DOC
6 months in French oak, using wild yeasts, structure & body, non-filtered, touch of oak (2nd and third usage barrels not so aggressive). Medium to full body, cherries, prunes, spice, glycerine, raspberry. Charles Scicolone, (a passionate oak-hater) commented on how these reds did not exhibit much oak)

Both reds paried with paccheri alla genovese napoletana


Donna Chiara Taurasi 2007 DOCG
12 months in French barrique, non filtered, ruby violet colors, bouquet of beautiful raspberry and blackberry aromas, with chocolate undertones, ending with a delicious long finish.

Carre d'agnello arrosto con patate e spinaci saltati.


Greco di Tufo DOCG
Apricot, summer fruits, pear lemon rind, pineapple and a fresh finish.

Pastiera

Campania is truly a diverse region with lots to offer. I suggest you try to experience some of their wonderful foods and wines here in the Big Apple or on your next trip to... Campania.

For another perspective on the event see Charles Scicolone On Wine

Gary Grunner from Grapes on the Go at Boston Wine Expo

This weekend at The Boston Wine Expo Gary Grunner, from Grapes On The Go, exhibited the following Italian wines from the Ferragamo family's Tuscan vineyards, Il Borro and Castiglion Del Bosco:

Il Borro Lamelle Chardonnay 2006 IGT



This Chardonnay has a pale yellow color, fruity rich aromas of apple and peach with notes of floral & lemon. Flavors of pear and vanilla balanced with nice acidity.

 Notes - The Chardonnay grapes for ‘Lamelle’ are carefully selected from vineyards within the Il Borro Estate in San Giustino Val d’Arno in Arezzo. The hand harvested grapes are immediately transferred to the winery and sorted manually. 50% of the wine is fermented in new French oak barriques & 50% in stainless steel for about 10 days.


Castiglion Del Bosco Dainero 2004 IGT



From the Tuscan region of Montalcino comes this mouthwatering blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Sangiovese grapes.

 Aged in barriques for 6 months, it puts on an aromatic show of violet, currant and chocolate all wrapped in a full bodied style. Deep purple and displaying a round, soft fruitiness, flavors emerge quickly of blackberries, cherries and a slightly smokey, vegetal quality at the finish.

Tenuta Il Borro Pian di Nova Toscana 2005 IGT


Another blend from Il Borro of 75% Syrah and 25% Sangiovese reflects a subtle nose of red cherries, currants and leather, with hints of vanilla and a finish of spices, namely cinnamon and cloves. 

The wines simplicity make it an attractive blend that utilizes the best of both grapes, Syrah for a rich spiciness and Sangiovese for an earthy freshness.


Tenuta Il Borro Toscana 2005 IGT



From Arezzo, Italy this blend is a balancing act of 50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah, and 5% Petit Verdot and aged in French barriques for 12 months. 

Nuances of violets, toast and roses on the nose and even a tinge of fresh baked pie... soft tannins preview the ripe flavors of blueberries, black cherries and a rich smokiness. The color is a cool ruby with medium weight, but the mouthfeel is a bit more substantial with rich textures and a satisfying finish that says SuperTuscan.



Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2003



Castiglion del Bosco produces this Brunello di Montalcino which is aged in oak for 2 years, then in bottle for another 2. 

It is a traditional 100% Sangiovese from Tuscany, has ruby coloring and intense inviting aromas of vanilla with flavors of plum, orange peel and a sweet campfire smokiness. Opened to a very good balance of fruit and soft tannins, but still it's a powerful red with 13.5% alcohol content.

 A very velvety wine.



Great Holiday Gift Ideas: Three Excellent Reds for Under $40 Each

Every once in a while you need to splurge a little, and now is the perfect season to buy that really good wine you've been wanting to try. Well, here are picks of three of my favorite reds to treat yourself to.... (or bring as gifts for the holidays) for under $40 each.

Castello di Gabbiano Alleanza 2009 IGT, Italy

Sourced from the best Merlot and Cabernet vines on the Gabbiano estate, this blend is made from 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, fermented in stainless steel and aged for 18 months in new French oak.

Starting with rich ruby red colors, a beautifully complex bouquet of roses, fresh herbs, black pepper and mild spices, while delicious flavors wind through a blend of blueberry, blackberry, ripe dark cherry, leather, raspberry and especially cloves.

Very balanced, mild sweet tannins with fresh acidity and a dark fruit finish. Love this wine! $40

Termes 2009, Spain

100% hand harvested, 4 months in stainless steel tanks, then aged in French oak barrels for 14-16 months. (The 2008 was expressly fresh fruit, while the 2009 was slightly warmer vintage like 06, 03 with a level of intensity, and lots of character). Aromas of raspberry, strawberry, fruity, sweet lush tannins, lively vibrant fruit character. nice structure, toasted, cedar, layered juicy texture on palate. Pairs beautifully with salumi, which rounds out the tannins. SRP $30

Macari Vineyards Merlot 2005, Long Island

soaked in a perfume of damp earth, green peppers, currant, blackberry, vanilla and ripe plum enmeshed with an herbaceous and lush mouth-feel surrounded by caramel candy and lively tannins redolent of leather and a long toasty finish. $36

Celebrating Long Island’s East End: A Vacation in a Glass at the Astor Wine Center

When Steve Bate drove to the North Fork of Long Island for the first time, he was surprised at the working farms and vineyards in operation there. Since then its rise in popularity is obvious as visitors now call before-hand to ask what other events are happening. Since 2004 Steve has been Long Island Wine Council’s Executive Director, playing a large part in bringing the number of visitors to 1.3 million per year.

Winterfest in March, April’s Barrel-tastings, May’s Run For The Rosé’s ($1 from each bottle sold goes to Cancer research), and September Barrel Auction are just a handful of the events happening there. The East End has 49 wine producers and many were on hand at The Astor Wine Center to pour some of their samples. Here are a few of my favorites:

Channing Daughters 2007 Sculpture Garden
88% Merlot from the Sculpture Garden vineyard (the oldest on the South Fork, planted in 1982) and 12% Blaufrankisch from Sylvanus vineyard, aged in French and Slovenian oak barrels for twenty-two months.
Aromas of blue fruit, rosewater, dried flowers, and hints of smoke, with flavors of violets, cherries, currants and blueberries.

Jamesport Vineyards 2005 Melange de Trois
Bordeaux blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc. Ocean breeze aromas open to mild, mineral earthtones, and smoked meats and tobacco with a delicious chewy palate, white pepper, sour cherry and a spicy cinnamon finish… soft, silky, smooth.

Wölffer Estates 2006 Fatalis Fatum
42% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc, 27.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1.5% Barbera, and aged 22 months in oak. Fragrant aromas of smoky bacon, red licorice, and a palate of blueberry, powdered violet candies, and sour cherries. Nicely integrated and finishes with very mild spice sprinkled over ripe cherries.

Castello di Borghese 2005 Merlot
Aged in French oak barrels for 13 months. Nose of black pepper spices, chalk, blue fruits, violets, and a lively, earthy palate.

Clovis Point 2007 Archaeology
56% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot, 6% Syrah, whew! Aromas of roses, glycerine, steel, blueberry, nicely balanced for its youth, but will be a keeper. Flavors of blue fruits, cola, crushed stones and plums.

(I know I’m partial to reds, so to be fair I also tried a Rosé)
Wölffer Estates 2008 Grandioso Rosé
Bouquet of peaches, honeysuckle, flavors of pears, kiwi, mineral, grapefruit rind, reminding me that Spring is Here!

Colleccion Vivanco 4 Varietals Dinistia Vivanco

Another tasting entry from La Rioja Wine Seminar at Astor Center, this one is a red made from 70% Tempranillo, 15% Graciano, 10% Garnacha and 5% Mazuelo-- all fermented separately in French oak vats. Aged for 24 months in French oak barrels. Color is a deep rose red with a floral nose of violets and cherries. On the palate is oak, toast, flower petals and cherries.

Chamarré Grand Reserve Viognier 2005 (Vin de Pays Vignobles de France)

Another new French wine from the Chamarré brand is this white which is made from 100% Viognier grapes, half from the northern Rhone and half from the Languedoc appellation. It is aged 6 months in oak. The grapes from the northern Rhone come from the AOC Condrieu where Viognier may have originated. Straw colored with floral aromas, a hint of oak and summer fruits, the palate is a big citrus and apple butter burst of color. This is in the $12 range at The Wine Room of Forest Hills.

Note: Chamarré is the first brand to take advantage of the new French wine appellation, "Vin de Pays Vignobles de France" which allows blending across regions. Founder Pascal Renaudat and winemaker Renaud Rosari have access to sources from cooperatives across the country and now can blend the best of each.

Vertical Tasting of 3 Chateau Rauzan-Segla in New Chateau Baccarat Glasses

Baccarat's presentation of their beautifully designed crystal wine glasses was matched only by the vertical tasting of 3 vintages of Chateau Rauzan-Segla Gran Cru Classe-Margaux.

The new design of the Chateau Baccarat glass collection successfully unleashes the full potential of the wines. The new shape works this way, the wide base prevents alcohols from overpowering the aromatics of the wine, the closed angle allows the the aromas to fill the glass when swirling, and the "vertical chimney" redirects and consolidates the aromas.

The first test was a comparison between the Baccarat glass and a common Bordeaux wine glass, and I have to admit the wines' attributes were more apparent from the former.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2006 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, aged in 50% French oak barrels for 18 months.
Clean colors of warm ruby, aromas of violets, raspberry, hints of leather, tobacco and candied fruit and caramel countered by flavors of spice with a vegetal edge, slightly tight tannins, white pepper with a warm mouth feel.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2001 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
63.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33.5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, aged in 50% French oak barrels for 18 months.
Classic Bordeaux style, darker ruby colors, ripe cherries and floral aromas accented by violets and licorice, on the palate there's a meaty and spicy tang combining with chalk, pepper and earth, echoes of ripe cherries and raspberry followed by a smart balance and long finish.

Chateau Rauzan Segla 2000 Gran Cru Classe-Margaux
61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, aged in 60% new oak barrels for 18 months.
Deep blackberry ruby colors, beautiful aromas colored by pastel and dried flowers (violet), chocolate and vanilla with flavors of black fruits, cassis, glycerine and spice. Beautifully balanced, smooth and wonderful finish.